barrel threading for muzzle brake question

S

sambo3006

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Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
1,376
Location
SW MO
My Rem 700 sporter barrel is currently threaded 1/2"x28 tpi for a muzzle brake. The brake I have works marvelously but is too loud for hunting. I picked up another brake that is not as efficient but is not as loud. My problem is that the threads on the barrel stop about 1/4" from the end of the turned down portion that butts up against the unturned portion of the barrel. The original brake is countersunk on the end so that it fits flush against the shoulder of the barrel. I didn't realize this and the new brake has no such countersink, so it bottoms out 1/4" from the shoulder of the barrel. Since the barrel is already threaded for about 3/4" and the threads merely need to be extended to the end of the turned down portion, would it be possible to use the proper die to do the job or would it need to be turned in a lathe? I would just put a spacer washer in there, but that quarter of an inch keeps me from being able to zip my really nice gun case all the way closed.
If it can be properly done with a die, I will do it. If it needs to be put in a lathe, I'll just put in a spacer washer and live with it.

Thanks!

Sam
 
J

J E Custom

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Joined
Jul 29, 2004
Messages
10,718
Location
Texas
My Rem 700 sporter barrel is currently threaded 1/2"x28 tpi for a muzzle brake. The brake I have works marvelously but is too loud for hunting. I picked up another brake that is not as efficient but is not as loud. My problem is that the threads on the barrel stop about 1/4" from the end of the turned down portion that butts up against the unturned portion of the barrel. The original brake is countersunk on the end so that it fits flush against the shoulder of the barrel. I didn't realize this and the new brake has no such countersink, so it bottoms out 1/4" from the shoulder of the barrel. Since the barrel is already threaded for about 3/4" and the threads merely need to be extended to the end of the turned down portion, would it be possible to use the proper die to do the job or would it need to be turned in a lathe? I would just put a spacer washer in there, but that quarter of an inch keeps me from being able to zip my really nice gun case all the way closed.
If it can be properly done with a die, I will do it. If it needs to be put in a lathe, I'll just put in a spacer washer and live with it.

Thanks!

Sam

Sam
I would recomend that you take it to a local smith and have him fix/install it.

He may have to counter bore the break or shorten the barrel tenon and re crown,
either way it should be done on a machine by a smith or it may be dangerous or
just screw up the accuracy.

A poorly installed break is not good !!!!

J E CUSTOM
 
S

sambo3006

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Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
1,376
Location
SW MO
Thanks, kind of what I thought. I'll probably just put a spacer washer in the gap and leave it alone. I shot one of my best groups ever the other day with the new brake on, 0.16" at 100 yards.
 
E

EddieHarren

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Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
1,142
Location
Maryland
If I had a sporter barreled Remington, that shot .16" groups, I'd leave it alone!
 
FEENIX

FEENIX

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Dec 20, 2008
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19,466
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Great Falls, MT
Have you considered using a better hearing protection combinations instead?
 

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