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Barrel swapping

So headspace gauges would be recommended? One is a wildcat 22-243 LARJON so that might be and issue getting gauges for that. I do have fired brass from that setup. The other is just the factory 243 win.
I TRUST that they were headspace properly if they were on that action previously, but I would VERIFY with a headspace gauge just to be sure!
 
On thing that would be helpful to know is if they are shouldered or remage style.
They are both shouldered barrels. The rifle started as a rem 700 in 243 win. Then I had the 22-243 put on. Both have been installed on the action by smith's.
 
They are both shouldered barrels. The rifle started as a rem 700 in 243 win. Then I had the 22-243 put on. Both have been installed on the action by smith's.
Sorry you sent this while I was typing. You should be able to torque them on and go.
 
Thank fellas! Out of curiosity how would I go about get go no go gauges for the 22-243 larjon?
 
Thank fellas! Out of curiosity how would I go about get go no go gauges for the 22-243 larjon?
You or may not need separate gages for it. If it is simply a 243 Win necked down to 22 cal, then standard .308 headspace gages are the correct gages.

On the other hand, if the 22-243 larjon chamber shoulder has been moved or the shoulder angle changed to something different than the .243 shoulder, then the 'larjon' very likely needs it's own gage. In this situation, the best way to get the proper gages is to have the original reamer print so that the gages can be made to the proper specs. People do use fired brass, but brass is far too malleable to function reliably as a gage.

One last thought since these are shoulder barrels; if 1) both of these barrels were chambered and headspaced to this particular action, 2) using the same recoil lug, then you should be able to swap them back and forth to your hearts content without needing gages. The headspace is machined into the fixed barrel shoulder. If the action is not true and square, you may be able to influence the headspace by how tightly you torque it. But the tighter you torque it the shorter the headspace gets, so it potentially could become a function problem, but not a safety problem. If either 1) or 2) are false, then you need gages.
 
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You or may not need separate gages for it. If it is simply a 243 Win necked down to 22 cal, then standard .308 headspace gages are the correct gages.

On the other hand, if the 22-243 larjon chamber shoulder has been moved or the shoulder angle changed to something different than the .243 shoulder, then the 'larjon' very likely needs it's own gage. In this situation, the best way to get the proper gages is to have the original reamer print so that the gages can be made to the proper specs. People do use fired brass, but brass is far too malleable to function reliably as a gage.

One last thought since these are shoulder barrels; if 1) both of these barrels were chambered and headspaced to this particular action, 2) using the same recoil lug, then you should be able to swap them back and forth to your hearts content without needing gages. The headspace is machined into the fixed barrel shoulder. If the action is not true and square, you may be able to influence the headspace by how tightly you torque it. But the tighter you torque it the shorter the headspace gets, so it potentially could become a function problem, but not a safety problem. If either 1) or 2) are false, then you need gages.
So is there a general torque spec or is it just up to the Smith what ever he feels like that day?
 

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