Any recommedations on a Neck Turning Tool

BigMedicine

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Nov 21, 2013
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New York
Been thinking about getting a neck turner, but I really don't know much about them, or which one is a good one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

climb-101

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Mar 3, 2011
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K&m is what I plan on ordering. they look to be well made and tons of people recommend them. there a little more expensive but I figure they will last a lifetime
 

AZShooter

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I have only used K and M. Good products and great service.

I thought I'd mention that neck turning may shorten brass life if the rifle has a factory/ SAMMI spec chamber. Premature neck splitting will occur due to the extra expansion and subsequent resizing.

I found out by experience: I skim turned some 284 brass to get the necks more concentric and hopefully more consistent neck tension and better accuracy. The gunsmith used a SAMMI spec reamer and the end result were split necks in as little as two firings using a RCBS FL sizing die. I suppose you may get a bit more life if you use a bushing die but there still is excessive working of the brass.

Now if you have a tight necked chamber forget I mentioned it.
 

Sneaky Apasum

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Nov 8, 2014
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Winters, TX
I have only used K and M. Good products and great service.

I thought I'd mention that neck turning may shorten brass life if the rifle has a factory/ SAMMI spec chamber. Premature neck splitting will occur due to the extra expansion and subsequent resizing.

I found out by experience: I skim turned some 284 brass to get the necks more concentric and hopefully more consistent neck tension and better accuracy. The gunsmith used a SAMMI spec reamer and the end result were split necks in as little as two firings using a RCBS FL sizing die. I suppose you may get a bit more life if you use a bushing die but there still is excessive working of the brass.

Now if you have a tight necked chamber forget I mentioned it.

A bushing die before or after you turn the necks? I ask because I am just getting into this and don't know. I was reading that the case needs to be full length resized with a non bushing die before turning to get the entire neck sized right. I had planned on doing that, then fireforming again (brass is once fired) and using a bushing die to get my final load. If I could skip a step and save an unnecessary firing on my brass, that would be great.
 

IAHNTR

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Jan 24, 2014
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Mount Vernon, Iowa
I have used the K&M with Ergo holder and shell holder for drill. I got the carbide inside and outside model. You will also need the mandrel for whichever caliber you are turning for. You run the new brass over the mandrel and that sizes the brass so it will fit over the mandrel/reamer on the turner.
 

Bill Johnson

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Sep 27, 2014
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A bushing die before or after you turn the necks? I ask because I am just getting into this and don't know. I was reading that the case needs to be full length resized with a non bushing die before turning to get the entire neck sized right. I had planned on doing that, then fireforming again (brass is once fired) and using a bushing die to get my final load. If I could skip a step and save an unnecessary firing on my brass, that would be great.

Generally you are going to use a bushing die after neck turning because the bushing size is dicated by bullet diameter plus neck wall thickness times two, minus .002 to .003, depending on how much "neck tension" you're aiming for.

Premature neck splitting can be avoided by annealing ever 3-5 firings, generally but it's still an accurate statement that neck-turned brass in a SAAMI chamber (especially if it's on the big side) tends to overwork brass.

I use the power adapter with case holder. In a cordless drill, neck turning is fast! As a benefit, I use the same set-up to spin the case while annealing.
 

Sneaky Apasum

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Nov 8, 2014
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Location
Winters, TX
Generally you are going to use a bushing die after neck turning because the bushing size is dicated by bullet diameter plus neck wall thickness times two, minus .002 to .003, depending on how much "neck tension" you're aiming for.

Premature neck splitting can be avoided by annealing ever 3-5 firings, generally but it's still an accurate statement that neck-turned brass in a SAAMI chamber (especially if it's on the big side) tends to overwork brass.

I use the power adapter with case holder. In a cordless drill, neck turning is fast! As a benefit, I use the same set-up to spin the case while annealing.

Okay, thank you.
 
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