I have only used K and M. Good products and great service.
I thought I'd mention that neck turning may shorten brass life if the rifle has a factory/ SAMMI spec chamber. Premature neck splitting will occur due to the extra expansion and subsequent resizing.
I found out by experience: I skim turned some 284 brass to get the necks more concentric and hopefully more consistent neck tension and better accuracy. The gunsmith used a SAMMI spec reamer and the end result were split necks in as little as two firings using a RCBS FL sizing die. I suppose you may get a bit more life if you use a bushing die but there still is excessive working of the brass.
Now if you have a tight necked chamber forget I mentioned it.
A bushing die before or after you turn the necks? I ask because I am just getting into this and don't know. I was reading that the case needs to be full length resized with a non bushing die before turning to get the entire neck sized right. I had planned on doing that, then fireforming again (brass is once fired) and using a bushing die to get my final load. If I could skip a step and save an unnecessary firing on my brass, that would be great.
Generally you are going to use a bushing die after neck turning because the bushing size is dicated by bullet diameter plus neck wall thickness times two, minus .002 to .003, depending on how much "neck tension" you're aiming for.
Premature neck splitting can be avoided by annealing ever 3-5 firings, generally but it's still an accurate statement that neck-turned brass in a SAAMI chamber (especially if it's on the big side) tends to overwork brass.
I use the power adapter with case holder. In a cordless drill, neck turning is fast! As a benefit, I use the same set-up to spin the case while annealing.