aluminum muzzle brake

[cgarb]

With hunting being a sport which you have to carry your rifle, I am trying to watch the weight of my next long range build. Is there any reason why I shouldn't make a muzzle brake out of aluminum? After all the work is done the barreled action is going to be duracoated so finish mismatch is not an issue. Thanks

 

[FearNoWind]

I would probably use 7075 - T6 aluminum and thread it onto the muzzle with a locking mechanism that doesn't extend beyond the muzzle of the rifle - to avoid any clamping of the break which might reduce the size of the bore. But I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine.
I would also pin the muzzle brake in place.

 

[J E Custom]

With hunting being a sport which you have to carry your rifle, I am trying to watch the weight of my next long range build. Is there any reason why I shouldn't make a muzzle brake out of aluminum? After all the work is done the barreled action is going to be duracoated so finish mismatch is not an issue. Thanks

There has been lots of testing with muzzle brakes of different materials.

Strength is not the major issue. all different materials have different coefficients of expansion
and the greater the difference, the more problems you will have keeping the brake tight on the barrel threads.

The two recommended materials are 416r and 17/4 PH. (They have the closest expansion rate to Stainless barrels. On Chrome molly barrels most high strength steels work.

Ultra light materials have problems with loosening and have thread wear issues unless large threads
like ACME types are used.

NOTE: most muzzle brakes only add ounces and actually contribute to accuracy by add weight on the end of the barrel dampening the barrel harmonics. It is common to add weight to the barrel muzzle (Even if it is just a weight) to improve accuracy.

The few ounces of extra weight is definitely worth the improvement possibility in accuracy.

Just my opinion based on My test and testimonials by others.

J E CUSTOM

 

[wbm]

Guess Aluminum would work but it might be easier and less expensive to lose 8 ounces of body weight.

 

[IdahoCTD]

The difference in weight from aluminum to 416 is about 2 ounces. If you use aluminum you have to keep the ports smaller to keep from blowing the brake apart therefore it is less effective. I think I would suck it up and use 416 for the 2 ounces of difference. I still have a couple 1" aluminum brakes and have made some for people that just had to have them.

 

[ntg]

What about anodized aluminum? How does it fair? I know of one that will make the brake, anodize it, and then paint to match.

 

[IdahoCTD]

Anodizing is a surface hardening and will help with the caliber hole erosion from the escaping gases but won't keep it from blowing apart if it's made too thin.

 

[ntg]

Understood.

These are primarily being put on thick contour barrels (senderos mostly) and are not following contour, but larger 1.5-2" roughly. I'm thinking of having him make one for a savage 10FP that is .87 thick, if I recall correctly.

 

[cgarb]

Maybe I will make 2...one of steel and one of aluminum. Fit them both and have them both coated. See if one is better than the other. Material is pretty cheap and it's only my time so what the heck. Ive spent time doing worse things.

 

[FEENIX]

Maybe I will make 2...one of steel and one of aluminum. Fit them both and have them both coated. See if one is better than the other. Material is pretty cheap and it's only my time so what the heck. Ive spent time doing worse things.

That's the spirit!

 

[EricL]

I built one for my 7WSM and it works great and hasn't loosened a bit in a couple hundred rounds. Like someone already said use 7075-t6 it has a tensile strength higher than any mild steel and not that much lower than 4140. The coefficient of expansion thing is definitely something to keep in mind just make sure its tight and you shouldn't have any problems.