All weather rifle?
- Thread starter Ftothfadd
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I'm on 10+ years with my synthetic stocked, Cerra-Kote on stainless Cooper. All sorts of conditions. No sign of rust or corrosion inside or out I do make an effort to keep water/snow out of the bore. Ballistol or Barricade, both, water displacers are highly effective at lifting water/moisture off all surface types. Useful after a day in the wet.
It's been a long time but that was true back then when I sold firearms and why I bought one. Every piece of metal is stainless and crazy accurate to boot.
The Winchester Model 70 is a FINE rifle.
Consider as well a protective method of carry. There are an array of soft weather proof bags that allow very quick access. They allow sling carry as well. This may not be right for all occasions, but it is in quite a few. Mine "folds" into a small stowable ball that fits in a backpack pocket. I also cut the fingers out of nitrile gloves and slip them over the muzzle brake.
Just like with clothing the answer may lie in layering.
Just like with clothing the answer may lie in layering.
Lefty Hunter
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2009
- Messages
- 42
Nitrite or Melanite process done to all the parts is really the only answer to trully rust proof a rifle inside and out. I have had a few complete guns done and They refuse to rust.
I find it visually pleasing as well and it seems to make the actions run smoother
I find it visually pleasing as well and it seems to make the actions run smoother
Stainless is manufactured in different series, 400 series is magnetic due to the carbon content in it, 300 series is non-magnetic. 400 series is much harder than 300 series, however 300 series is much more resistant to chemicals. Both have pros and cons, 400 series is easier to machine and by that I mean that 300 series can gall easier if too much metal is removed at once. Both will resist rust, one is just better than the other in that respect.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Pulled a Savage OEM .22-250 barrel out of my storage container last weekend. I knew that it had a humidity problem, but I was still surprised to see spots of rust on it.
Even 300 series rusts. Mostly because it was machined on and with ferrous tooling. Passivating removes the ferrous steel on the surface and increases the corrosion resistance of stainless steels.
I'd start with stainless steel parts, after all mfging steps have them passivated per QQ-P-35, and then Cerakote or NiPTFE or NiB plate as appropriate.
Even 300 series rusts. Mostly because it was machined on and with ferrous tooling. Passivating removes the ferrous steel on the surface and increases the corrosion resistance of stainless steels.
I'd start with stainless steel parts, after all mfging steps have them passivated per QQ-P-35, and then Cerakote or NiPTFE or NiB plate as appropriate.
I would just run an oily patch through the bore after shooting & store it vertically. (That's what I do)
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
I have been asked and pondered this very question many times. In preparation for a lifetime stay in the northern wilderness of Alaska or anywhere in the whole world my choice for the most durable, weather and salt water resistant rifle ever devised is the discontinued but still available Ruger M77 MKII Stainless Steel All Weather rifle. also known as the canoe paddle. There might be a pin or two and some springs that are not a high grade of stainless. Given enough time all stainless firearms will rust so to improve it's weather resistance I would Cerakote every part inside and out with Cerakote except the barrel bore.
I would also add if I could only have one firearm to last me to the end of time with no tools or spare parts it would still be this Ruger. I would get it in 30-06 so the bore would be big enough to improvise a cleaning rod and doesn't build so much pressure that it is going to have much in the way of carbon or copper fouling that would stop up the rifle. The rings are the very toughest ring for any rifle. They need lapped but once done they are good to go. I would want a Leupold fixed 4 or 6 power scope and the factory iron sights should I ever break the scope. To take care of the bore I would render some animal fat and filter it and refine it best I could into a sort of grease to keep water off the bore.
I would also add if I could only have one firearm to last me to the end of time with no tools or spare parts it would still be this Ruger. I would get it in 30-06 so the bore would be big enough to improvise a cleaning rod and doesn't build so much pressure that it is going to have much in the way of carbon or copper fouling that would stop up the rifle. The rings are the very toughest ring for any rifle. They need lapped but once done they are good to go. I would want a Leupold fixed 4 or 6 power scope and the factory iron sights should I ever break the scope. To take care of the bore I would render some animal fat and filter it and refine it best I could into a sort of grease to keep water off the bore.
Well thought out!
