300 Win Mag


Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2004
North Dakota
I am looking at Building a long range tack driver. What do you guys think of this cartridge? I have had one in a Factory Rem 700 and it was accurate but I only shot it out to 300 yards. I am thinking a Hart 28 inch Barrel and a 700 Rem Action. What do you guys think? PS No Ultra Mags I dont want all that recoil and Hate Muzzle breaks
I think you should go with a .300 weatherby. Im no expert, but I killed my first long range deer with it, and i know it has an advantage over the winchester as far as energy and velocity, and it doesnt kick as much as the ultramag
Thanks for the Info. I am trying to come up with a plan of attack with the little woman if you know what I mean.
I think I am going with a Lilja Barrel Hart wants to much money for a 28" finish fluted barrel. Sorry PA no Weatherby here I like the cartridge just dont like the price of the brass.
Save yourself about $100-180 and skip the fluting. Only done to reduce weight and cosmetics mostly. With recoil a consideration, think I would have a Lilja 3 groove 1-11 twist HV taper barrel from 1.2 at action to about .930 at muzzle and 28-29".

You can easily get 2900 fps with very accurate load and 210 bullets with the 300 mag or 300 wsm.

the weatherby will go a little faster of course and so will the recoil. However, you can easily go to over 1k with the 300 WSM or 300 Win Mag. Without muzzlebrake the weatherby will really start to "wear on you" after couple rounds in anything under 10 lbs if you do not like recoil.


[ 03-24-2004: Message edited by: BountyHunter ]
Well I am looking at using it for a hunting gun so I will be carring it around I was thinking of a #5 Fluted with a 27 1/2 Finish I would like to keep the gun around 10 or 11 pounds with the scope and bipod on as this is about what my Sendero weighs. But I havent decided on the fluting yet cause it is kinda Spendy.
hey kinda off topic here but, about the recoil of the weatherby, its really not any worse that the winchester. Ive been shooting my dads .300 weatherby since i was 12, and im not exactly a big guy.(the gun weighs just under 8 lbs.)

Yes, I am aware that fluting can be done to reduce cooling time. That is why I said "mostly". However, that is not really practical reason for fluting on most guns. If you shoot a magnum to get it hot, there probably is not a measurable difference on drops in temp over time to allow it to cool. You lose weight and rigidity of the barrel when fluting, not to mention if the guy doing it does not do it right, they can induce heat related warping in the barrel.

Lot of trade offs, so make sure you know what the pluses and minuses are before just jumping out there.


Do you believe you actually loose rigidity?

I believe you retain the rigidity of the original diameter bbl, but now weighs as much as a smaller diameter bbl, and also cools like an even larger diameter bbl.

Done right and cryoed, I don't see a problem, and possibly it would be an advantage in some applications, then there's the "cool" factor.
One of the best riles I had (gave to my nephew last year)was a fluted Lilja 300 win mag. I do like the fluting as gives just alittle more cooling surface. I also found with the longer barrels say 26"/28" you don't get that heavy muzzle feeling. Well good luck!
Well I talked to Lilja Fluting has all +'s in my book.
1. It Relieves stress in the barrel.
2. Stiffens the Barrel.
3. Takes about a pound of weight off.
4. Better cooling time.
Only - is the price but you get what you pay for.
As for the 300 weatherby yes it does kick more than a 300 Win I have shot one. If I went down that road then I would build a 338 Lapua. Anyone shot one of those? If you have how was the recoil?

[ 03-25-2004: Message edited by: dakor ]

go to Dan Liljas website and he has a downloadable program on barrel rigidity. This topic has been beat to death on BR central and other places over the years and it is well documented that fluting will cause you to loose rigidity as compared to the same barrel weight/diameter non fluted. Where people get confused is they try to compare a fluted barrel of x weight to an unfluted barrel of the same weight. The comparision has to be made against the original weight of the fluted barrel for a rigidity comparison.

As for the plus of additional cooling factor, seen several threads from people who actually computed the "increase" in surface area and it is minimal, hard to see how it gives you a significant increase in barrel cooling, particularily when talking about magnums and the heat they generate.

Flutes can save weight and look good, but other than that not sure they are worth the money.

here's my take on flutting, it makes a barrel more ridged then one of similar weight, but if you compare the barrel to one of same size nonflutted, the non flutted barrel is more ridged, the flutting machine can also screw up internal dimensions of the barrel if done after the rifleing has been cut,as for cooling better results can be obtained by beadblasting with a aluminum oxide, beadblasting adds about 2.5x cooling surface, and the aluminum will help cool even more because of low specific heat.
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