300 Win Mag Build and Loading Questions.

[Bart B]

None of us know what bullet the OP will hunt with nor does he. He's not got the rifle to test any of them yet. He'll decide after that. He may then let us know. Then I'll know, too.

 

[Wisner74]

None of us know what bullet the OP will hunt with nor does he. He's not got the rifle to test any of them yet. He'll decide after that. He may then let us know. Then I'll know, too.

You are correct. As of now I have ordered 185, 190, & 210 Berger VLD's as well as some 180, 200 Accubonds. I will be testing all of these to see what shoots best.

Any thoughts on a Hornady Neck Turning Tool.....How necessary is this tool? Also Was thinking about buying a Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die?? any Thoughts on this??

 

[Bart B]

That Willis collet die properly used will size belted cases best for life and accuracy. Use it correctly after full length sizing fired cases setting their shoulders back no more than .002". Then then those double sized cases will shoot as accurate as new belted cases.

Turning necks is needed if they vary more than .001" in thickness. Turn them just enough to clean up most of them. A spread .001" or less is fine.

Your barrel has about 1500 or less rounds of accurate barrel life shooting .300 Win Mag ammo. Shoot only 3 shots with each bullet when first testing them. If that group's small at 1/2 MOA or less, shoot a few more to see how much bigger it gets. When it gets to over 1 MOA with less than 10 shots, stop there with that bullet then change the charge weight one grain. Test at the maximum range you're willing to take a shot at.

Do the same with other bullets and powders then pick the one you want to use. Then get zeros for every hundred yards to your maximum range to shoot at.

 

[65WSM]

Get your gunsmith to cut you a seating die with the reamer at the same time he does the barrel chamber. Use a Wilson blank. Make sure you have a VLD stem that supports the bullet on the ogive and not just the tip.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...rifle-dies/wilson-seater-blank-prod33395.aspx

I have shot two .300 Ultra Mag Bartlein barrels on my Model 70. I wore out the first one before I discovered nitrocarburizing. Both were 11 twist. I did not have any trouble stqabilizing with 200 gr Accubonds. I tested to 700 yards.

Nitrocarburizing your barrel and coating your bullets with HBN will both add to the velocity and barrel like. I like to shoot my rifles at least monthly year around.

 

[Bart B]

What does a seating die made with a chamber reamer do better than a standard seating die?

How's it done to make it better?

I think there would be less bullet support and alignment with it as the bullet started into the case neck.

 

[Wisner74]

Right now I plan on ordering: A Redding Competition Bushing 3 die Neck sizer set. I figure this would be the one to buy?? I am unsure of which neck sizing bushings to buy though. As I have not had a chance to measure a seated bullet yet. Any ideas??

 

[barefooter56]

Right now I plan on ordering: A Redding Competition Bushing 3 die Neck sizer set. I figure this would be the one to buy?? I am unsure of which neck sizing bushings to buy though. As I have not had a chance to measure a seated bullet yet. Any ideas??

Wisner74,
I would suggest getting the Type S match FULL LENGTH DIE SET. That consists of the competition Seater die w/micrometer top and Type S full length bushing die. And get the VLD seating stem (#55730 is Redding part number for the 300 WM). Do yourself a favor and wait until you decide on and get the brass you will be using to get the bushing(s). Get one thats .002 under the measurement across the neck of a loaded round and one .001 under to start.

 

[bigngreen]

All of my 300 Win mag builds are set up for the Redding type S FL resize die, the Willis die is cool but if things are right with the reamer and you don't hammer the brass there is no need for it, I keep a couple but I've only used them when there were other issues. I use the Redding mic seater but I'm converting over the the Wilson seating dies but for what your talking you won't see the difference between the Redding or Wilson as long as you have the micrometer.

 

[Wisner74]

All of my 300 Win mag builds are set up for the Redding type S FL resize die, the Willis die is cool but if things are right with the reamer and you don't hammer the brass there is no need for it, I keep a couple but I've only used them when there were other issues. I use the Redding mic seater but I'm converting over the the Wilson seating dies but for what your talking you won't see the difference between the Redding or Wilson as long as you have the micrometer.

Thanks! Any idea on the neck resizing bushings....

 

[65WSM]

The aim of the seating die is to align the bullet with the bore of the the barrel. Chamber type seating dies are the most likely to get this done. Most manufacturers of dies offer some kind of "chamber type" seating die as their most expensive die. All Forster seating dies are "chamber type". The best match (pun intended) to your rifle chamber is a die cut with the chamber reamer. This is easy to do and comparatively inexpensive if it is done when the barrel is chambered.

Regardless of seating die, you will need an aftermarket special VLD seating stem. I will address sizing dies in the next post.

 

[65WSM]

The goal of a sizing die is to modify the case to hold the bullet with consistent and minimum tension and to make the cartridge case fit the chamber of the barrel. The minimum "sizing" you can tolerate promotes accuracy and case life.

I have 4 rifles that I do not size cases for at all between firings. These are called "tight chambered" rifles. The include the latest, an EA Brown falling block in .219 Zipper, a Highwall replica in 6mm PPC, a Model 70 in 6.5-284 and a 6.5 - 06 Ackley improved. I also have a tight chambered wildcat I call a .224 Nisqually so I guess that makes 5 tight chambered rifles.

The next step in sizing is to partially resize the neck only. I like the Wilson Bushing die and arbor press for this. The Wilson die sizes half of the neck and allows you to control neck tension easily. The base of the neck is left chamber size and allows the case to center itself in the chamber.

The next step is the Bump Bushing Forester dies. These size the neck with bushings and push back the shoulder slightly. This is helpful in rifles with little caming power to seat tight cases like my beloved falling blocks. The Bonanza Press will center this size operation more accurately than other press because it has a spring suspended case holder.

The Redding Bushing size dies are available in neck only and "full length" and are necessary in many factory chambers. Again the Forster Bonanza press will center this size operation the most accurately.

The photo shows a rifle with poor caming power compared to a Model 70 or Remington 700.

 

[Wisner74]

Wisner74,
I would suggest getting the Type S match FULL LENGTH DIE SET. That consists of the competition Seater die w/micrometer top and Type S full length bushing die. And get the VLD seating stem (#55730 is Redding part number for the 300 WM). Do yourself a favor and wait until you decide on and get the brass you will be using to get the bushing(s). Get one thats .002 under the measurement across the neck of a loaded round and one .001 under to start.

Couple questions:

What is the difference in the Redding competition 3 set (Midway #470429, Redding #58153) to the Redding Competition 2 Set Micrometer and Type S (Midway # 267053, redding #36153)??

As far as the VLD Seating stem I can't find the part number you listed. Only found The Redding VLD Deating Stem with Micrometer on top (Midway #400790, Redding #09179). Is this the one?

As far as Brass I have a ton of shot Winchester, Remington, Federal, Hornady factory brass. Any preferences on which to use for reloading??

 

[Bart B]

The aim of the seating die is to align the bullet with the bore of the the barrel.

It's to align then seat the bullet into the case neck. That does nothing to align the bullet to the bore.

The base of the neck is left chamber size and allows the case to center itself in the chamber.

Only if the fired case neck is chamber neck diameter. Don't know if that ever happens. Case necks typically do not touch chamber necks at all when the round's chambered; there's a thousandth or more clearance all the way around. Therefore, the neck plays no part in centering the bullet to the bore. But it should be easy to figure out what does center correctly resized bottleneck cases' bullets in the bore.

Do you know that a .243 Win round will center its bullet dead center in a.260 Rem, .308 Win or .358 Win chamber when it's fired?

 

[Wisner74]

Just thought I would throw this out there......Thanks everyone for all the help with this!!!