300 rum nickel brass?

[huntxtrm]

I'm new to reloading. actually have never loaded a rifle round as of yet. I am wanting to start reloading my own, for my 300. I have some once fired nickel plated brass. is it good for reloading? or should I keep looking for some straight brass? Any load suggestions to start off with? tips? tricks? all advice would be appreciated.

 

[dmj]

I have reloaded the nickle brass. It works, might not be as good as just the plain good old brass stuff, but is better than nothing. Not sure which of the 300s you are wishing to reload for or type of bullets you wish to use. If it's one of the magnums I think most on here would advise the heavier bullets in Berger, Hornady Amax, Nosler. 180 grain would probably be the lightest and 200 and above would probably be preffered by most. To get started you might consider purchasing a good reloading manual. Most have a a fairly good section on how to reload, read this then read it a second time. Your manual will also have load information for different powders for different grains of bullet. With a minimum and max. # of grains and other info (case length, cartriage overall length etc) Stay within the manuals recomendations. As you get started and have more questions, there are lots of members on here that have a bundle of knowledge. Possibly a sporting good store may have someone willing to give you some hands on assistance. Have fun, good luck and be safe.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

I'm new to reloading. actually have never loaded a rifle round as of yet. I am wanting to start reloading my own, for my 300. I have some once fired nickel plated brass. is it good for reloading? or should I keep looking for some straight brass? Any load suggestions to start off with? tips? tricks? all advice would be appreciated.

My recommendation is not to reload nickel rifle brass.

It's hard on the tools.
Can't trim it properly.
Scratched my dies.

 

[dmj]

I apologize I didn't pay close enough attention to the heading. Where you stated it was a 300 rum.

 

[huntxtrm]

I apologize I didn't pay close enough attention to the heading. Where you stated it was a 300 rum.

Yes, it is a browning abolt, 300 RUM. I intend on mostly using it for long range Elk and hogs. Out to about 600, I'm hoping. I've been told 200 grain plus on the bullets. It does have an aftermarket brake on it. Or it's getting put on it right now, it's at the gunsmith.

 

[trebark]

For close range and out to about 1100, look at the 215grain Berger hybrid and send it with 90+ grains of Retumbo.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-300rum-mcr-70809/

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/comparing-berger-210-vld-215-hybrid-88657/

 

[USCGLongBow]

My recommendation is not to reload nickel rifle brass.

It's hard on the tools.
Can't trim it properly.
Scratched my dies.

I have never been able to find RUM Nickel Brass to attempt loading, but I know in all my other rifles I use exclusively Nickel Brass if possible. For me it has allowed me to load marginally high velocities, it doesn't seem to grow as much as straight brass, and it lasts at least three times longer than straight. My 270 and 280 nickel brass both have 30+ loads on them and still showing little wear, whereas I tossed all straight brass for both calibers a few years ago because of sidewall thinning just above the base. I'm not discounting seaman's experience, I'm sure he has reason to steer clear of Nickel, but this has not been my experience. However, like I stated I don't have experience with RUM brass in Nickel so it is possible that is where the trouble lies.

 

[huntxtrm]

I have never been able to find RUM Nickel Brass to attempt loading, but I know in all my other rifles I use exclusively Nickel Brass if possible. For me it has allowed me to load marginally high velocities, it doesn't seem to grow as much as straight brass, and it lasts at least three times longer than straight. My 270 and 280 nickel brass both have 30+ loads on them and still showing little wear, whereas I tossed all straight brass for both calibers a few years ago because of sidewall thinning just above the base. I'm not discounting seaman's experience, I'm sure he has reason to steer clear of Nickel, but this has not been my experience. However, like I stated I don't have experience with RUM brass in Nickel so it is possible that is where the trouble lies.

I got my nickel brass from fed premier factory loads, I shot once. That's why I was wondering. Box claims they are better. But that's factory loads. But they load them some how? That's why I was wondering. And asking, because I am new at reloading.

 

[dmj]

The nickel brass that I have reloaded was for a 300 rum. It worked fine. I know some say it is harder on your reloading tools. Possible it is. But you can reload it if you wish to.

 

[LoneTraveler]

I have loaded nickel 270 Win. brass. I have some 300 WSM Winchester Nickel brass I am looking to reload. I have read stories about the nickel brass being harder on dies. Takes more power to run through press. I have read some unproven reports on another forum that the nickel would come off go up the barrel. Then when the next bullet goes down the barrel it would imprint it into the barrel and damage the bore. I never had any with the nickel peeling off the cases.

 

[D.Camilleri]

I have quite a bit of federal premium nickel brass for my 338 rum. At first I really liked the idea of the nickel because it is very slick and doesn't tarnish like brass. The bad is that federal brass is soft, kind of like nosler and full power loads have made my primer pockets loose. As a matter of fact, I have half a case of federal premium 338 rum loaded with 225 accubonds and the brass ends up with loose primer pockets after one firing. My Remington brass does much better.

As was said above, try some 215 grain bergers starting with about 90 grains of retumbo, load to magazine length. Bullets.com had 215's in stock a week ago.