.223 on a Progressive?

Using a mirror to visually check each round as you run a progressive is a vital - but easy to miss - step! It absolutely must be done each time before a bullet is placed in a case! The only alternative, as flyguy1 one said, is to use a low powder indicator. Squibs are not just annoying but down right dangerous if you don't catch it in time!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
Using a mirror to visually check each round as you run a progressive is a vital - but easy to miss - step! It absolutely must be done each time before a bullet is placed in a case! The only alternative, as flyguy1 one said, is to use a low powder indicator. Squibs are not just annoying but down right dangerous if you don't catch it in time!
Cheers,
crkckr
This is not the only way. I picked up an Amazon endoscope, initially used one of my Android phones - now and old iPad, and fabricated a temporary bracket, which I still haven't replaced.



 
Interestingly enough posters haven't said much about the kind of powder used for .223/5.56
The cartridge's small mouth does not like stick powders, they can and will bridge and you get a light load then a overflowing load. If you can find a flake powder that is consistant then a progressive is OK.
I use Dillon 550's for pistols and for rifles, the sizing, priming, seating and crimping but end up measuring each powder load. Am looking at Hodgdon CCF223 or H335 for more consistant measuring.
8208 XBR is a great fit also
 
Have not used these in over 4 years. Too lazy to load, factory ammo spoil this old guy. 650 set up on both; station #1 is a 21st Century universal expanding die with melonited mandrel. I sent my fired brass to commercial processing. The last 15Ks were primed, I make sure the necks provide close to the same neck tension. Thus, the reason the expanding mandrels.

You notice, the dual powder measure? I think that helped (if you think it helps, it helps..lol) in the consistency of the powder charge to charge. I split the total between the two. Not exactly in half, just roughed it, one stayed fix. The Dillon powder measure adjusts the volume by changing the hole opening, instead of depth of the hole. So, the two smaller opening as you swipe across the powder tends to give less variation.

When I shot a lot, I loaded my long line ammo on that 650. The other ran the short line.

20200907_161747.jpg
 
I'd like to buy a progressive press to speed up my .223 production. It's the cartridge I shoot the most of by far. I'd like to stay around $1000 +/- for the press, what would you buy?
Years ago I obtained a 1st gen RL1050 off eBay. Used then was under 1k. Recently I sent it back for a maintenance rebuild. I was completely amazed by the lightning fast turnaround but more amazing was the zero rebuild charge! Dillon went "yard" on this one.
I use 2460, Benchmark, 322 , it works fine
For some reason it doesn't like 4895 or Varget. .223 is about the longest case it will accept, but happy with it nonetheless.
 
Everybody has their preferred system, this is mine:

All my brass prep is on a single stage (Rockchucker).
I use an RCBS Trim-Pro powered trimmer with the 3-way cutter.
While the trimmer is running I resize a piece of brass, so in my mind I'm getting both sizing and trimming completed in half the time compared to doing those operations individually.

I prime and assemble the loads on a Dillon 550B.

For powder charging I take the powder measure off that station and just have a funnel there.
I'm using an RCBS Charge Master to weigh all my charges.
While the powder is being metered I cycle the press leaving the ram at the top of the stroke.

Average output off the Dillon is 200-250 rounds an hour.

If I was using ball powder I would just use the Dillon powder measure.
In those instances it's easy to do 400 an hour.

YMMV
 
I haven't tried any of the newer progressives but imo Dillon had the best primer seater and powder drop system back almost twenty years ago. The 1050's I ran were very smooth and rebuilding them wasn't a problem for me. 650's aren't as smooth but work well and offer a lot of flexibility. I've had a Hornady progressive since the 1980's and use it mostly for case prep work now. Single stage press to finish loads off the progressive, or to do all the reloading. I prefer using either a hand held or desk mounted primer seater and single stage press to seat bullets. That way I can visually/ physically inspect primer depth and powder charge.
 
Have not used these in over 4 years. Too lazy to load, factory ammo spoil this old guy. 650 set up on both; station #1 is a 21st Century universal expanding die with melonited mandrel. I sent my fired brass to commercial processing. The last 15Ks were primed, I make sure the necks provide close to the same neck tension. Thus, the reason the expanding mandrels.

You notice, the dual powder measure? I think that helped (if you think it helps, it helps..lol) in the consistency of the powder charge to charge. I split the total between the two. Not exactly in half, just roughed it, one stayed fix. The Dillon powder measure adjusts the volume by changing the hole opening, instead of depth of the hole. So, the two smaller opening as you swipe across the powder tends to give less variation.

When I shot a lot, I loaded my long line ammo on that 650. The other ran the short line.

View attachment 471844






Running 3 Dillons, 2 550B, and one 550c. Have the side by side sm and lg rifle primer set up, with 550c on other side of bench for my Magnum loading/sizing. On other end of bench 2 RockChuckers and one Redding for my LR loading. 16 Dillon complete conversion sets for most my reloading needs. Only had to rebuild one 550 after 40 yrs of use. Secret for me is using Redding/good quality dies on brass that is prepped beforehand only dropping powder and seating bullet for final step.
 
I only use ball powder now, meters so accurately.
I have some flake pistol type powder (universal) and as soon as that's used up I'll not buy anymore.
My powder of choice was hodgdons cfe 223 and cfe pistol and 2400 but supply issues this side of the atlantic mean it's a PITA to maintain stock levels so I now use lovex powders made by Explosia, a Czech outfit.
D036 mainly but D073.1 and D073.2 for pistols, very occasionally nowadays and cast bullets in rifles, more and more, and D073.4 and D073.6 for rifles, occasionally Do73.5 but not that often.
Coupled with S&B brass and primers they offer clean burning, great metering and don't seem to be temperature sensitive.
Quite often load density is up in the mid 90%ages which isn't too bad.
For me, in the UK, they have several great advantages, they are available freely, come in packages as small as 0.5 kilograms (app. 1.1 pounds) and cost less than US imports. They are also ruled by the red tape machine known as the EU and I have found in my situation that the variation between lots is minimal enough to ignore after a couple of check loads.
Velocity wise they either equal (in accurate loads) CFE 223 and pistol or better it as the case may be.
I have an ancient LEE classic turret press and almost upgraded to a progressive but it's just not worth the additional cost or set up hassle for my situation where if I shoot a couple or three hundred rounds a week it's unusual.
I sold my 308 and intended to replace it with a 6.5 swede or a 7mm of some sort but got bitten by the lever gun bug and so am rattling out 30/30 and 357 mag at a rate of knots, I also load for my 223 but shoot that rather less nowadays as I approach the end of my eighth decade on the planet.
 
I basically use my Dillon 550 for any auto loading rifle or pistol that I have. Adding more sooner than later. The only bad part is case prep, you still need to trim and chamfer/debur. I've been toying with the idea of getting another 550 just for case prep. A swage-it in the priming station couple with a depriming die. Then the cutter(?) then an expanding mandrel. Could add the expander on the "main" toolhead too.
 
Top