Pro Muzzle Brakes, The Origin Story

There's not material to do it the way we have our self timing setup. We do offer the .750" timing nut option. Lots of people running these on seekins, and savage ultralights.
 
Still love them after all these months. Have them on large frame ARs. The self timer on the 260 shows a gap. I tried using it as a tuner. 3 turns out it shrunk the group on factory ammo.

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This was our first .990" brake. The wrench flats were a little short which made the brake look a little funky. Our thread relief, and distance to the first port from the banking surface of the back of the brake was too short for standard barrel threads. We were still struggling with getting a nice uniform port surface finish. After this set of brakes we added a finishing tool. This allowed us to run the roughing tool longer and leave a small amount of material for the final tool to leave a perfect finish.


Ken

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I'd like to replace the factory radial brake on my Weatherby Backcountry 2.0 (pencil steel barrel) with something more capable of mitigating muzzle flip. Recoil is fine; the muzzle just jumps around making precision shots difficult. Mine is the tungsten gray color barrel. Any options for this application?
 
I'd like to replace the factory radial brake on my Weatherby Backcountry 2.0 (pencil steel barrel) with something more capable of mitigating muzzle flip. Recoil is fine; the muzzle just jumps around making precision shots difficult. Mine is the tungsten gray color barrel. Any options for this application?
It would be 1/2-28 threads... So you could do either the .680" or the .760" brake in the 4 port and have it timed and tapered by a smith. Either would be a nice upgrade vs the radial brake. The .760" brake would perform better than the .680.


Ken
 
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