can't miss 7 rem mag load?

So I'm now on my 2nd 7 rem mag rifle----I thought the 1st one (a Remington) just had a bad barrel as it would copper foul really easily. I tried 3 different bullets, 3 different powders, seating depths, 2 different brass manu's etc--I could get a good load but then it wouldn't repeat next range trip

I sold that rifle and just bought an x-bolt LR-- with the new x-bolt I tried shooting 4 different kinds of factory ammo, printed a .87" group with the barnes LRX and a .93" with the 175 fusion, a 1.06 with the 140 trophy bonded and a 3" with the eldx the first time out-- went back to range and the fusions printed 1.8", the trophy bonded printed 1.38, and the lrx printed 1.12, but the eldx was better at 1.25"

with handloads this time--tried both the 162 eldx and 165 GC 69,69.5,70,70.5 of H1000 .020" off lands and nothing was stellar--looks like the 69.0gr loads might show some promise but nothing great (.002 neck tension) cci magnum primers--I'll probably re-try this powder charge with a length ladder next


I handload for all my other calibers and have been able to find 1/2- 3/4 moa loads in my other rifles (223, 6.8spc, 300bo, 270w, 308, 30-06, 30-30, 44mag) fairly easily--am I missing something with the 7 rem mag?

I've pretty much tried everything with the old 7 rem mag--using norma brass, necks are "cleaned up" to get consistent neck thickness--I have tried FL sizing, neck sized, bushing sized--annealed, you name it

I'm starting to doubt both myself and my handloading abilities--but If I pick up one of my other rifles I can still print that 1/2-3/4 moa group no problem with my handloads

Is there a "can't miss" load I can try with my 7 rem mag to see if I'm just choosing the wrong components?

I have RE22, RE23, and H1000 powder on hand, I have cci LR, LR magnum and Bench rest primers (been using the magnum primers)--I have Norma brass and PPU brass (PPU holds less powder, and is less consistent in weight than the norma), I have 162 eldx, 165 gamechanger, and 175 eldx (175's might be marginal on stability with my 9.5 twist) and I can easily pick up some 168 vld's hunting at the local store to try also.

I thought maybe I was flinching on recoil so I had a buddy watch and I'm not flinching but occasionally I am jerking the trigger (which would account for some of the flyers)-- I'm following through with trigger pull, keeping a good sight picture, tried multiple scopes to make sure its not a scope or mount issue, I have a good recoil pad, I've tried the factory x-bolt radial brake, bare muzzle, and my 11" suppressor and if anything the groups are worse with the suppressor-- radial brake and bare muzzle are similar size groups

who has got a "can't miss" load I can try? preferably with brass, primers and powder I have on hand

what kind of jump are guys using for the 162 eldx bullets? I can easily hit lands with these x-bolt mags so I can try any jump

suggestions?

Did you pillar bed the old 7mag bedding block or any other bedding enhancement? Have you done that to the new one? Free floated while in the shooting position? Make sure all the controlables are just that. In my brother's 9.5 tw 70 grains of retumbo with 162 shoots bugholes. Not the fastest load es is 14fps and load density isn't 100%. I ran a ladder with RL26 and once he's done with deer season we will explore with the 168 bergers. Going to tickle 3100fps if the top of the ladder shots well.
As far as a magic load for a 7.Win brass 215 64 grains H4831 .020 off the lands with the amax shoots great but it's slower than other powders.

7RM can be finicky. I've had three of them. I couldn't get any of mine to shoot the hornady bullets.

My load that shoots (3 shots) under 1/2 moa (sometimes under 1/4) at 1000 yds is:
Norma Brass -FL sized with shoulder bumped .002
180 berger VLD .010 into lands
68.4 grains H 1000 (69.1 on new brass)
fed 215
.002 neck tension - 1/2 of neck sized

getting 2970 fps
barrel is proof CF 26 inch with 8.4 twist

H1000 seems to be a popular powder for the 7RM....all of mine liked it better than anything else

-old gun had aluminum pillars from factory, but I had it fl glass bed to try to see if it helped (maybe a little but nothing drastic)
-new rifle is glass bed, and barrel lapped from the factory, mcarbo lightweight trigger spring added
-both barrels are free floated
-I'm shooting the same way I do with all my rifles on the bench--front adjustable rest, rear bag
-I've also checked and torqued the action screws
-the 7 rem mag recoil does not bother me, I can shoot 50-60 rounds of it before I start to even notice the recoil on my shoulder--I usually limit myself to 40 rounds or less each range session

-I can regularly shoot 1/2 moa or better with my 270 and the recoil on my 7 mag actually feels less than my 270 due to recoil pad/ muzzle device--the 7 rem mag is heavier by almost a pound than the 270

--I know I have seen a few guys say they have a hand-load that seems to just shoot well in any gun they try it in-- thats what I'm looking for to find a baseline on my new gun.

anyone have one of the browning 7 rem mag 1:9.5 twist x-bolt LongRange (26" barrel with radial brake) rifles that likes a certain factory ammo I could try??? maybe take the "hand-loading" variable out of the equation first

I'm shooting a 160 Nosler accubond , RL22 powder 66.0gr , Fed 215 primer , WW brass . I'm jumping the bullet .070 " .

I've see a bunch of guys say they use this combo in the 66.0 - 67.0 grain range . I have no idea what distance they are jumping the bullet .

think it has anything to do with neck clearance? how much is enough or too much? --my norma brass is .0135-.014" thick, loaded bullet is .312"--expanded neck is .316 so .004" clearance or .002" clearance per side

using a .310 neck bushing right now with .0015" shoulder bump FL redding bushing die

Picky rifle here, only thing I found to work in my rig is 162 ELDm 3.37" COAL (functional for magazine length), WLRM primer in Nosler brass collet die neck sized, RL23 @ 65.0 grains in Weatherby MarkV Accumark 26" 9.5 twist #3 Contour barrel.
Backup load = all the same except w/ RL22 64 grains.

cohunt said:

think it has anything to do with neck clearance? how much is enough or too much? --my norma brass is .0135-.014" thick, loaded bullet is .312"--expanded neck is .316 so .004" clearance or .002" clearance per side

using a .310 neck bushing right now with .0015" shoulder bump FL redding bushing die

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that's plenty of clearance . if your fired brass measures .316 it has contracted a little ,due to brass spring back . so your at least .004 .

Could it possibly be something with how your sizing your brass with the belted mag brass?

zr600 said:

Could it possibly be something with how your sizing your brass with the belted mag brass?

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Ive tried just about every way of sizing

tired rcbs FL dies, tried lee FL and collet neck dies, tried redding FL size die with differnt neck bushings, even did the LW body die--only bumping the shoulder back 1-1.5 thou--don't think it has to do with sizing but ive been wrong before

I don't own a belted mag and have never loaded for one but thought the sizing part of it was different then none belted brass. I would read into the proper way of setting up your dies for a belted mag and not just go off the instructions in the die box. Just something I thought of. You have tried two Rifles multiple scopes, and bullets powders so it's got to be something else. There's no way I would think now days you would get two guns in a row with bad barrels.

If you're gonna shoot heavy bullets give retumbo a try

Have a smith slug the barrel. If nothing else at least it will clean up quick

Capt RB said:

Have a smith slug the barrel. If nothing else at least it will clean up quick

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why? the browning barrel is lapped from the factory, it doesn't copper foul like the old one used to