Testing Cases After Resizing?

Newbie alert...I am new to reloading and have full length resized some 7mm STW, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. I deprimed as well on the press.

I thought I would chamber a few empty cases and see how they cycle. I noticed the bolt was more difficult to close on the newly resized brass. Is this normal? No bullet in the case, no primer but I did deburr the outside and inside of case after resizing.
I am having the same issue with a new weatherby 308. Once fired cases, fully resized, trimmed, and chamfered. I measured the cases after trimming to insure proper length. I believe that it is in the shoulder of the case. Is the only way to correct to fire form the case to the new chamber?
 
I contacted RCBS when I was sizing 300 Savage with a small base sizing die. The rifle is a 99. It was too tight to fit. The technician told me to turn the die one more 1/4 turn. That worked. Evidently there was slack in the press.
 
Newbie alert...I am new to reloading and have full length resized some 7mm STW, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. I deprimed as well on the press.

I thought I would chamber a few empty cases and see how they cycle. I noticed the bolt was more difficult to close on the newly resized brass. Is this normal? No bullet in the case, no primer but I did deburr the outside and inside of case after resizing.
Did you screw your sizing dies down until they touch your shell holder and then another 1/8th turn so that your press cambers over....I'll bet you didn't since it happened on all three! Just me!
 
Newbie alert...I am new to reloading and have full length resized some 7mm STW, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. I deprimed as well on the press.

I thought I would chamber a few empty cases and see how they cycle. I noticed the bolt was more difficult to close on the newly resized brass. Is this normal? No bullet in the case, no primer but I did deburr the outside and inside of case after resizing.
Without knowing which press that you are using some press instructions indicate that a slight camover is required. This is also stated in many of the instructions for the dies themselves.
If in doubt take the time to call the manufacture's themselves and speak to a tech rep.
Other than that you must establish a -.002" or more shoulder bump using either your Fl resizing die.
Another way is to use caliber specific Redding Body Die along with the Redding Competition Shell Holder Set.(each shell holder is stepped in +.002" increments ranging from +.010" down to a +.002")
Using this system is easy yielding very consistent results.
Of course as mentioned there are other methods to achieve a correct shoulder bump some of which are described, however sooner or later you will need to trim your cases back to minimum case length in order to correctly chamber in your weapon.
If you are still having doubts use the internet to determine the best way for you to achieve the correct shoulder bump.
Hope this helps.
 
So I experimented turning the die down a little more at a time and it didn't really make a difference. I then took a factory round and discovered maybe its just a tad stiff closing the bolt to begin with. Because I'm starting reloading and trying to pay attention to little details maybe I hadn't noticed it before. I will see what happens when I get some loaded rounds.
As mentioned in post #39. I believe what you are feeling is the bolt engaging the sear when closing the bolt. When you remove the firing pin then close the bolt on an empty chamber it will literally free fall to the closed position. When chambering a resized case any resistance you feel is from the case. Be aware that side pressure from the ejector plunger can induce required bolt closing force, however it may be slight. Removing the ejector plunger will allow unencumbered bolt feel. There are many good YouTube videos on this method.
 
Newbie alert...I am new to reloading and have full length resized some 7mm STW, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. I deprimed as well on the press.

I thought I would chamber a few empty cases and see how they cycle. I noticed the bolt was more difficult to close on the newly resized brass. Is this normal? No bullet in the case, no primer but I did deburr the outside and inside of case after resizing.
Did you trim the cases, they stretch when fireing. Especially magnum calibers.
 
The Hornady gauges which measure case head to ogive and case head to shoulder are worth every bit of the money you'll spend on them......if you are loading hunting ammo, measure your fired cases and set your resizing die to set the shoulder back .003-.005 (three to five thousandths). Cases will last several firings and should feed and chamber quite reliably when sized that much. Usually you will have to screw your sizing due down an 1/8 of a turn or so from when it touches your shell holder to get this much set back. The gauges will tell you exactly how much you're bumping the shoulders back
 
Gent states he's a beginner. Some of these replies are off the chart deep and a beginner will not understand. He needs to get a book, manual, and maybe a mentor. Best advice I can give is slow down, read, listen and learn the fundamentals. Take notes, dedicate the un-interrupted time to figure out. Check out some of the videos on your issue with "ultimate reloader". More than likely your die needs to be screwed in a bit more (do in small increments) to get proper full length resize but then you also need to check your OAL of the brass and be sure it's in spec. If it's too long then you need to trim, another tool to do this. Anyways.. PM me if you want to discuss some more.
 
The Hornady gauges which measure case head to ogive and case head to shoulder are worth every bit of the money you'll spend on them......if you are loading hunting ammo, measure your fired cases and set your resizing die to set the shoulder back .003-.005 (three to five thousandths). Cases will last several firings and should feed and chamber quite reliably when sized that much. Usually you will have to screw your sizing due down an 1/8 of a turn or so from when it touches your shell holder to get this much set back. The gauges will tell you exactly how much you're bumping the shoulders back

Thank you. I've got the OAL gauge to measure CBTO and waiting to get my once fired brass back from Copper Creek Cartridge that will have the appropriate threading to use the tool. I also got the Hornady Bullet Comparator kit but haven't got an attachment yet that fits perfect with the shoulder on my cases. I tried a bigger caliber insert and it slid over the neck of my 7mm STW case and was close to touching shoulder but not exact.
 
Gent states he's a beginner. Some of these replies are off the chart deep and a beginner will not understand. He needs to get a book, manual, and maybe a mentor. Best advice I can give is slow down, read, listen and learn the fundamentals. Take notes, dedicate the un-interrupted time to figure out. Check out some of the videos on your issue with "ultimate reloader". More than likely your die needs to be screwed in a bit more (do in small increments) to get proper full length resize but then you also need to check your OAL of the brass and be sure it's in spec. If it's too long then you need to trim, another tool to do this. Anyways.. PM me if you want to discuss some more.

thank you I measured OAL length with calipers and the case was in spec. Case head to shoulder for the 7mm STW per Hornady 10th edition is 2.89 and I measured 2.885.

I replied earlier in the thread that I chambered a factory round (Nosler Trophy Grade 175 grain ABLR) and it required the same amount of force to close the bolt. I guess there isn't a problem I just spend more time with my Tikkas and they are smoother than closing the bolt in the Sendero with a large 8mm case.
 
Newbie alert...I am new to reloading and have full length resized some 7mm STW, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. I deprimed as well on the press.

I thought I would chamber a few empty cases and see how they cycle. I noticed the bolt was more difficult to close on the newly resized brass. Is this normal? No bullet in the case, no primer but I did deburr the outside and inside of case after resizing.
 
I agree, hate to work the case more than needed. For hunting I take each loaded case and chamber it to make sure. For target I don't mind a little pressure closing the bolt.
 
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