DIY Carbon fiber barrel?

So, watched the video.
Will "not" using a release agent in the roll-wrap method shown, absolutely prevent de-bonding of the barrel from the wrap?

Cure temperature of the embedded epoxy is only 250 degrees. No idea what the temperature of the barrel will be ahead of the full diameter steel chamber- but given it's turned down to 5/8" (if I understood you correctly) it's going to be waaay hotter than that after a few rounds down the tube. My concerns would be different coefficients of expansion (as he mentioned in the video), high temperatures, and possibility of de-bonding. How well does the material conduct heat away from the barrel? Barrel vibration, harmonics, uneven temperatures... sounds like a challenging environment.

Never seen material pre-impregnated with a heat-cure resin. I've only used liquid resins- which as mentioned are vacuum bagged not only to remove air, but excess resin as too much will weaken the part.

Good luck with it, we're all going to be standing by for the results of the "experiment".
Lots of questions, but i need answers :)
1. shrink tape removes excess epoxy when wrapped correctly - solved
2. harmonics - we always fight with that. Have to wait till barrel is complete to see
3. expansion - all cf barrels have to deal with this, but not sure of the effects yet.
4. Temperature - how hot does a 7mm get ahead of the chamber after 5 rounds?
 
I worked for Textron
We did the saddle on the tail section of the C130, BAE 146, V22, and several others not to mention all the ones that were aluminum.
 
Finished my first test barrel. Lots of lessons. Outlook is good, however, proof research is safe. I wont be putting them out of business any time soon :)
1. use lots of epoxy
2. let it cure a day before turning down

Issues to fix:
1. Lines in shrink wrap tape
2. best way to fix a "dry" area
3. turn with single point or use a tool post grinder/sander
 
Here is the first one. Still needs the sacrificial brake removed and muzzle turned. Then i need to learn what the best way to polish these up is. Maybe just a clear coat, since they need some uv protection
E7C9DF43-5DC9-49E0-ADA2-129F75E25514.jpeg
 
It never would have occurred to me to even try this... but you have me curious. Post updates after it's been test fired and heated up.

Maybe I'll do something similar to my superlite barrel.
 
2. best way to fix a "dry" area

This would be the vacuum bagging...distributes resin evenly throughout the part and pulls off any excess.

What's it weigh? What did you leave at the muzzle end in terms of steel length/diameter prior to threading?
 
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