First DIY Carbon Fiber Stock

Well done guys, I have been building super light weight stocks since 1970 and must admit it was very difficult to start. I have made them from 9ozs to 3lb and recently tested a 1lb 2 oz stock by running over it with the back wheels of a Ford SW. The stock could be used again without a problem. I like designs with sharp corners and hate those that look like a big blob of putty. The USA stock builders love Twill weaves but I get much better strength from using unidirectional unwoven. It's more difficult to work with and doesn't have that "I must have an orgasm when I look at the carbon". However I'm looking for stiffness and rock solid non changing point of impact. The resin to reinforce ratio is very important, excess resin just adds weight and does nothing but make it brittle, try for 50 - 50, Good luck I'm retired
 
Decided to go stand in the cold wind and snow and watch deer instead of work on it today. Did a bit on sanding, but I will try to fix the bad areas tomorrow with some light body filler. Then finish the inletting, bed the rifle, then give it a good paint job. Might be a few days for all that.
 
I exaggerate time and money, but it has been a great learning experience. After another couple eh1 types, I want to figure out the eh5. That is by far my favorite. A couple chassis builds would be nice too .... and it never ends :)
When making your next mold you can do the first 2 layers in cloth the do the rest in heavy mat then a later of woven roving and it will make its stiffer than hell and way faster than many layers of cloth.
 
When making your next mold you can do the first 2 layers in cloth the do the rest in heavy mat then a later of woven roving and it will make its stiffer than hell and way faster than many layers of cloth.
That is actually close to how i did this one. I did two layers of thin mat with chopped in the tight areas then vacuum bagged. That left all the details pretty good. Then I added a layer of thick green air filter material i had around and two more thick layers over the top. The filter material was 1" thick and added some meat to gaps when bagged. Then went crazy and added more of the thick mat after :) I learned real quick I want the FG mold to have a bit of flex while removing the CF. CF doesn't want to budge.

saw how mcmillan uses gelcoat in the mold. Great idea, I just dont have any yet. Another great way to fill in those tough areas like the sharp curves in the handle and the foreend.
 
Quick update: took a manners butt plate, hot glued it on and used a straight edge to fill and profile the butt end a bit more. Shows I needed more pressure (add more foam) during the layup process. Everything filled in well and weight is still the same. Next is add the bedding block, high build primer, sand and paint.
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It has taken a while with other projects, but here we go. I took my manner eh1 stock and made a good fiberglass mold. I made sure to sand it to perfect the edges and polish it with a red scotchbrite wheel. A couple coats of paste wax for release and it was ready for layups.

I used 2 layers of cf weave then vacuum bagged in each mold half. After they were fully dry, I laid down 3 layers of unidirectional cf inside, put the two halves together with cf overhanging inside to join. Once bolted together, I poured in some expansion foam thru a hole in the top of the mold (just above the trigger). The stuff expands 30x its liquid volume and you have about 45 seconds to mix and get it in there. I placed the mold in a heated closet at 80f and let it expand for an hour (only takes 5 minutes). Decided to leave it in another 3 hours for the epoxy to cure enouh to pop out of the mold and here she is.
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Obviously needs the edges cleaned, but at 22.4oz and strong as can be, I am pretty happy. Next is to clean, trim, lightly sand, inlet and test. Not bad for the first full try.
Nicee work!
 
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