Question on tuning a load

Skidoo

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Apr 23, 2019
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Location
Miles City Montana
I'm pretty new at this long range stuff but really enjoy it so far, besides the cost of getting started lol. Anyways I have been reloading for about 3 years now, lots of pistol rounds as I shoot IDPA and a little USPSA. Well my question is when I load my rifle rounds I usually go the middle of the road for the simple idea that my barrels will last longer and I don't want to blow anything up with to much. My question is am I missing out on accuracy because of my wussy loads? If so how do I truly tune a load for each rifle. TIA
 
There's a lot of different answers and ways to find your node. If your limited to 100yds, simply load 3 up in different powder weights starting at min and going to max. Some will group better, that's your node.
Imo the simplest way is a ladder test at 400+ yds. Load one in .2-.4 gr increments and shoot then at a single poa. They should walk up the target then group on poa before continuing to walk up the target.
Then there's seating depth tests to fine tune it even more.
Good luck
 
I have a OAL gauge and use it then back it off -.015 or so. Now in my 6.5PRC Christensen mesa long range I broke in the barrel per their instructions and using factory hornady 143 precision hunter ammo and was having a hard time opening the bolt after firing, then open and inspect the brass to find the head had 2 dimples on it from the ejectors. I called a friend and he said to switch ammo so I went to the hornady 147 match and the problem was still there but not near as bad as the other ones. Should I pull all these bullets and reload my own or will I be fine using these till they are gone so I have brass to reload with?
 
There shouldn't be any ejector marks with factory ammo.
The prc freebore on on their reamer print changed from initial release once loaded ammo was released and was found to be jamming the lands.
I'm suspicious your having something along those lines.
Ejector marks always mean your over pressure.
I'd contact Christensen before firing anymore and explain the problem. Something is strange with that
 
Regarding the ejector marks when using factory ammo -- call CA and talk to them about it. Factory loaded ammo should work.

Regarding loading reduced power ammo to extend barrel life -- as long as your not pushing the pressure hard it's usually okay to run at something close to max pressure. That way the neck will seal off properly.
 
But if you are using a lower power load...there can be problematic powder build up....unburned powder...could lead you into pressure problems and need serious cleanings....
Same happens with shotgun loads....unburnt powder leaving lots of residue in the barrel....especially not good in semiauto or shotguns with screw in chokes.....
Should be very consistent and load to a good standard of fps and powder burn usage....
Magnum rifles and slower powders with 'reduced loads' build residue quickly...
IME....
 
I think I'm using the right trems here. I will load some pictures at lunch. The 2 marks I'm referring to are the 2 round silver things on the bolt face right above the firing pin.
 
I think I'm using the right trems here. I will load some pictures at lunch. The 2 marks I'm referring to are the 2 round silver things on the bolt face right above the firing pin.
And youre getting shiny spots on ur brass?
 
The prc freebore on on their reamer print changed from initial release once loaded ammo was released and was found to be jamming the lands.

It wouldn't be hard would it, to imagine someone forgetting to apply the finishing touches with a the reamer before it was installed on the action? I'm attempting to learn here, because I had a savage that did the same thing, to a limited degree I admit- even the most timid of loads left an ejector mark with no other signs of elevated pressures. the rifle shot fine until I retired the old barrel at 1500+ shots. I never did find out why it was doing that, Not as severe as what Skidoo is describing though.
 
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