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Which one not to get

jpw360

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2015
Messages
27
Here is a little dilema ...i have a remmy 700 223 heavy barrel 1 in 12 twist in a cadex defence chassis with a vortex razor scope on it.....i feel like i hut the max with that caliber and want to stretch it out further 800-100 yds....getting another remngton 700 varmint (i want heavy barrel) only options will be 308 or 243 and this is for paper not hunting could cost me about 600-700....however i already own a tikka t3 varmint 300wm....and that for sure will hit 1000 yards.....and will also hit me harder..but it definitely needs a break that would be around $200. ..i do reload too......im debating whether to not get the 243 (308 would probably not be ideal for 1000 yds) and put up with the 300 winnie...whats ur take
 
It's hard to beat a .308 Win for range work and plinking...

My vote goes to the 5R Milspec .308 Win with a 24" barrel.
 
It's hard to beat a .308 Win for range work and plinking...

My vote goes to the 5R Milspec .308 Win with a 24" barrel.

Thats about 1K+ if thats the case....thats about thesame to put a chassis on the tikka....more weight less recoil
 
Everything is a trade off.

Based on the information you are giving, I would say put a brake on your 300WM, go shoot it and I think you will be very happy for ELR paper. Being able to see misses at ELR is much easier with a big piece of lead, but so is reading your trail. You may also want to drop that Tikka into a chasis for better ergos and weight also.

I also like the option of going with a fast twist .243 or 6.5, but Remington does not offer fast twists in anything but .30 cal cartridges. The 6 and 6.5's will give you better ballistics and less recoil but harder to see misses with those little pills.

If I recall the 6.5 and the 300WM have similar ballistics punching paper, but one is just throwing a much bigger chunk of lead. Choose the one that will do what you need best. If that is a whole new gun in a new caliber, so be it. If it's a few mods to an existing gun just collecting dust, then clean her up and make it purposeful.

Best of luck!
 
You didn't say what you use the 300 WM for now. Is it your primary hunting rifle? I have been told that my WM shouldn't be used for plinking unless I want to rebarrel shortly, as compared to a .308 that should "yield double number round count before accuracy fades".

My thought is that this is my primary hunter, so I Want to be as familiar and lethal as possible, if that means shooting out the barrel and "having" to get an upgraded Proof, then so be it. :) if it happens just before the season starts, I have a 300 RUM with loads ready to go the will kill things to 300 yards, I will get by.

My opinion, put a break on the WM, get thread cap for hunting and shoot the snot out of that thing.
 
however i already own a tikka t3 varmint 300wm....and that for sure will hit 1000 yards.....and will also hit me harder..but it definitely needs a break that would be around $200.

You already answered your own question ... give yourself a break and get that muzzle brake installed. There are plenty of effective brakes out there ... being able to see targets on impact is priceless.
 
I actually purchased the tikka for hunting but never took it out its brand new...i ended up hunting lots with my 7mm rem mag as i had developed a load very accurate.
 
Forget the thread cap and lock tite the brake on. That's what I did and I really like it. But I use electronic hearing muff when I hunt. They do for your ears what binoculars do for your eyes.
 
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