My favorite has been a pair that my dad gave me, one is a Puma White Hunter that he had bought in the late 60's and the other is a Blackjack classic 7. Both are great knives and have served me well. I know you had said no budget, but I know both aren't exactly wallet friendly. However, you get great quality from either. I'll try to get some pictures of both
Which Hunting Knife
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C S Fever
Well-Known Member
I'm also a fan of Evan Seimbida's work great craftsmanship! I have a meadowlark as well and it's my favourite knife. My EDC is a Benchmade assisted folder can't remember what model and the one I carry for work is a Spyderco with serrated half serrated blade great for when you have something at the farm that needs to be sawn or stripped! The other knife I carry in my killkit is a Tyto which is super light and even with a half dozen blades doesn't way hardly anything! But it's all what works and is comfortable in your hand that's what really matters!
There are some good recommendations on here, and some really poor ones. Start with a good steel: S35v, O1, D2, S90... I have heard elmax can be good but have not made or used knives with this material... so no opinion.
Then look for good blade geometry: A blade that finishes out all the way or near the backbone will cut and sharpen nicer, all else being equal. Not too thick, not too deep of a belly (hard to sharpen). 3.25"-4" is ideal IMO.
Cheap stainless won't hold a candle to supersteels, tool steels IMO.
Then look at handle geometry: What fits you well, has enough grip to be safe, and cleans easily. Cool looking doesn't cut it (pun intended). There are some very nice looking knives out there that are well made, hold an edge well, and cut well.
Man, some of these folks are missing the mark and have not used good knives, or they wouldn't be making some of these recommendations.
If price is no object, look at some customs or reputable semi-customs.
Then look for good blade geometry: A blade that finishes out all the way or near the backbone will cut and sharpen nicer, all else being equal. Not too thick, not too deep of a belly (hard to sharpen). 3.25"-4" is ideal IMO.
Cheap stainless won't hold a candle to supersteels, tool steels IMO.
Then look at handle geometry: What fits you well, has enough grip to be safe, and cleans easily. Cool looking doesn't cut it (pun intended). There are some very nice looking knives out there that are well made, hold an edge well, and cut well.
Man, some of these folks are missing the mark and have not used good knives, or they wouldn't be making some of these recommendations.
If price is no object, look at some customs or reputable semi-customs.
Randominator
Well-Known Member
Take a look at the knifes by Kim Ralston.
You will not be disappointed.
You will not be disappointed.
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Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
yup, running a Master Hunter with the San Mii blade... heck of a knife
As far as skinning I have a pair of Case Ridgeback hunters from when Case was U.S. produced... They will dull but I can usually get a couple of critters skinned and knocked down before re-touching the blades. They fit extremely well in the hand... Kind of the extension of your finger thing if you will...
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Husker shooter
Active Member
Knives of Alaska. Gutted a lot of buffalo with one and that wool is hard on blades
Tidus56
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I have a buddy with the benchmade altitude and he sold it after one year, the handle was just too hard to use. He now uses the benchmade hidden canyon. I have a hidden canyon and an esee xancudo. I like both really well, I would have done the esee Ashley game knife as I loved the handle but I wasn't stoked with the metal being 1095 instead of S35V. The xancudo with sheath is 6 ounces so not too bad.
I hunt with a stag handled Randall Alaskan Skinner knife. It is a great knife, takes a great edge and a strong blade. I bought it new in 1989. But for anything but gutting or skinning it's not so good in my opinion; not enough point and the blade is kind of wide. I am taking a long look at the Cold Steel Master Hunter, but I am not fond of the sheath. I black bear hunt from a ground blind, "any" noise whatsoever will make one's day of hunting not so good. That kydex sheath will make noise. Maybe the Cold Steel Master and get a sheath maker to make a custom sheath for me.
Yes, there are bushcraft and utility knives, then there are meat knives. Neither is optimal at both. You can cape, quarter and work up an animal with a camp or bushcraft knife, but a knife with the right geometry and blade thickness for working up animals is a thing of joy. 
Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
I've got a 110 and a 119... never use either any longer. The 440 steel in them leaves something to be desired in edge retention. The Cold Steel Aus 8 and 10 folders and their carbon and laminate fixed blades are really good blades. I also run Spiderco for a folder.
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
I read first page but not other 9 pages. I carry an outdoor edge exchange blade. Much more sturdy than Havalons . And you can resharpen blades. That's in my pack. I carry a 8 in. Straight blade on my side for last defense of Grizz attack. Bear spray other side. Glock 20 on my chest and rifle in my hands and my Chesapeake in front of me. Anyway. That's my knives ! Where you hunt may differ.
Thanks for saying "IT".
I was trying not to get folks offended, but 420/440 stainless are inferior to many of the blade steel offerings today.
Of course, just my opinion... a guy should use what works for his needs.
Same knife has served me well for 25 years. It was my first hunting knife and has cleaned a lot of game.
I have switched to a gerber vital which I keep
As a lightweight option in my bino pouch. But I also have a fixed blade, either buck 119 or a kershaw in my main pack to have for heavy work/survival purposes. I mainly carry the kershaw nowadays since the handle is lighter.
