Whats your opinion on this setup?

I would put a recoil reducer into the butt stock on this type of rifle, they work very well to take the sharpness of before the brake catches the rifle.
The bipod, I'd have a rail fit to the front of the stock and run a Harris with a quick detach allowing you to remain balanced and quick in the timber but quickly and easily have the benefits of the bipod.
My custom 338RUM tips the scales at about 10.5lbs with scope. I run a suppressor or a brake, and the brake is way better for recoil. I use the 5 port Beast brake from muzzlebrakesandmore. I'd highly recommend it.With 300gr SMK's running around 2750fps, the rifle isn't a real chore to shoot with the brake. I wouldn't call the recoil light, but it isn't anywhere close to as bad as your's probably is.
Already said, but get a new muzzle brake. Add the bedding and then a trigger if you need.

A heavier and better scope may be a way to add weight and upgrade glass at the same time if necessary.
All of the previous suggestions seem good. The part that I picked up on was to get your 250 gr A-Frames out to 700 yards. Those are some seriously low BC bullets and I think they’re pretty hard (meaning not easy to deform /mushroom) too.

According to my little ballistics calculator, if you’re shooting them at an elevation of 5,000 feet, you’ll need to have a muzzle velocity close to 3,100 fps in order to keep them above 1,800 fps at 700 yards. Because A-Frames are so stoutly constructed, I’m not even sure that 1,800 fps will get them to start mushrooming. They might need to be traveling more like 2,000 fps. If they don’t mushroom, they’re going to behave like a full metal jacket bullet and just punch a hole.

Anyone please feel free to correct me on this because I’ve never attempted to shoot anything long range with an A-Frame, I could be mistaken. To get out to 700 yards with a 338 RUM is no problem, I’m just thinking that you might be better served than with a 250 A-Frame for this application.

Good thread.


I absulutly agree with JE custom get yourself a good muzzle brake that reduces recoil makes a huge difference you may need to wear hearing protection even when hunting however they do make muzzle blast atrocious.
Fine a Great gunsmith ,bounce all this off of him , 1 rebarrel to a 1/9.4 twist a#6 conture ss/fluted you pick style & make of barrel ,get it braked with one of the best muzzle brakes made 5 port , get piller/glass beded, new trigger /speed lock firing pin ,go at least 26 inch on barrel ,maybe a medium Palma would be better , chat up that smith ,wit a little faster twist you can shoot a better higher BC bullet faster/flatter ,cheers !!!
Another vote for a good brake before weighting down


If you planning to bed the rifle anyway... Consider metallic bedding compounds vs glass so you can pick up weight at the same time
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