What would cause this on the rifling?
- Thread starter Leaf Litter
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Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
Looks like tooling marks from when the barrel was originally bored.
Wedgy
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Savage barrels look like they are threaded with a tap LOL some are so bad they don't look like they would shoot but they do. Something with the way they are button rifled causes the marks. Look at the link
Leaf Litter
Well-Known Member
Most factory Tikka barrels I've seen looked pretty good compared to this. Everyone has a bad day I guess
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In general, it looks like typical tool chatter marks. What seems more concerning is the appearance of "chipping" that appears to be limited to the left side of the land.
Is this a 5R barrel? It looks like the left side of the land is tapered/chamfered (maybe misinterpreting what I see). Perhaps just a bad blank?
How does it shoot? I'd think it would be a pain to clean.
Is this a 5R barrel? It looks like the left side of the land is tapered/chamfered (maybe misinterpreting what I see). Perhaps just a bad blank?
How does it shoot? I'd think it would be a pain to clean.
Leaf Litter
Well-Known Member
I never shot it, I bought it as a backup and didn't end up needing it. It's a stock stainless Tikka take-off barrel, so whatever rifling they use. The two other tikka barrels I have are smooth and flawless inside, so this was surprising
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Kinda makes you wonder why this barrel was removed. Where in the barrel does this appear? Is it only on one side?
std7mag
Well-Known Member
It's chatter from the button that did the rifling.
A lot of it depends on how new the button is and what lubricant is used.
Some of my carbide inserts on the lathe actually work better after taking a diamond file to them and slightly breaking the edge.
I have seen a video on YouTube of a custom barrel maker that found the best lubricant for them to do button rifling was a bar of Ivory soap.
I found the video again. I mis spoke. It is a soap. Just not necessarily Ivory. It's heated to liquid form. Flushed through the bore. Then let dry.
A lot of it depends on how new the button is and what lubricant is used.
Some of my carbide inserts on the lathe actually work better after taking a diamond file to them and slightly breaking the edge.
I have seen a video on YouTube of a custom barrel maker that found the best lubricant for them to do button rifling was a bar of Ivory soap.
I found the video again. I mis spoke. It is a soap. Just not necessarily Ivory. It's heated to liquid form. Flushed through the bore. Then let dry.
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Tikka barrels are cold-hammer forged, not button rifled.
If I had to guess, it would be chatter marks from the drilling process prior to hammer forging.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
My guess is reamer was packing with chips and not getting flushed out. You can see the perpendicular grooves appear and disappear as the reamer advanced. The same can also be said about chips sticking on part of the cutter edge.
The rifling process won't correct reamer marks except where the grooves are formed.
The rifling process won't correct reamer marks except where the grooves are formed.
It is NOT from the button. It is the feed rate of the reamer used after gun drilling the bore. It is not chatter as some like to think. When a button is pushed or pulled through the barrel it usually irons out the marks. When it does not it is from a larger area that is not swaged by the button. On a cut rifled barrel it will be lapped out. And higher quality button barrels are lapped before the button is run through so the marks will not be present.
