What is the total cost of equipment to start neck turning?

When I get back up there. I have to look into it harder, to see what I missed. I order out the neck turning tool kit for 7mm and changed the shoulder angle to 40dr to match the AI configuration. I figure it out a little later on. Thanks!
 
I am a bit confused by all this. I have used a Forster hand crank turner for inside reaming and outside neck turning, plus hollow pointing and a few other chores. My input.
 
I got a 21st Century Powder Complete Lathe Kit, plus 8 Neck Turning Kits for about $2,000.00. It wasn't hard to set up, and cut my necks. I have just started to use the system. So I don't know a whole lot about it yet. It did what I needed to do. The only thing was the mandrel didn't fit the ID of the 7mm ID case. So I had the mandrel turned, and that has taken care of the problem. I set it up to cut thickness to 13th and it did just that. It was simple enough to achieve. I locked in the cutting amount and it stayed the same for 5 cases that I did for the Smith to test fire the rifle. the Smith causation me on about cutting the necks in one pass. I should do it in at lease two setting to be sure in getting a smooth neck. So I order out a 2nd Neck turning tool kit. That way I can lock it down and don't have to change anything, and hopefully everything is concentric. The other thing was I got a Henderson Precision Case Trimmer. To cut all my brass to the same length. You have to get different cutter heads for each calibers. You can set up a stop and change it out and replace it with a different stop for a different cartridge to stay consistent Every case for whatever rifle needs to be or wants to be same-O-same-O.
So it's a matter of how deep your pocket are, and it's Rabbit Hole!
 
You dont need to go that deep but it doesnt hurt. Im into my setup a few hundred Id guess. I always turn in one pass. But I dont turn thin. I turn enough to clean them up. Thats how I spec my reamers. Guys used to turn the necks way down but the trend is to leave them thinker. Different methods, they all work out.
 
The one rifle I just had built and completed. It's a tight chamber. So I have to cut to .0125 thickness. I was figuring on .013" but the reamer ended up smaller by .005". The other is consistence is the name of the game. If everything is consistence with the neck thickness no matter what thickness you are cutting I feel that works for me. The other is I am doing by what the Smith told me. Alex, what part of Montana are you in. I am in the Bitterroot area.
 
Dillon, but Im moving back to Florida in 3 weeks. So Im at the closest ups depot, lo
Like that hot weather. Well it's not Mexico-North. (aka California) I am down to 1 home and one rental here in Mexico-North. In Montana is where most of my assets are. I like the Governor their in Florida very much. We'll have to see what happen in a year or a little more. I use to hunt in the gravelly. I remember when the Fed and State moved in the Grizzly into the gravelly. When the Moose were thicker than flies there too. Wolfs took them out. The Elk there was a lot there too. I remember on year coming across elk tracks, and wolf tracks over them. For several years I couldn't go anywhere there without walking into Moose. One son lives in Corvallis, and I am looking at moving there. Gun laws are petty close to the same in Florida and Montana now. I use to go thru Dillon headed to Missoula. Now I cut off just above Idaho Falls and go thru Muddy Lake area. God luck in your move.
 
Thanks. I lived in Fl for many years so I know the pros and cons. Mt has changed a lot in the last ten years. Not for the better. I still do love it. I always say if I won the lottery Id have a home in MT and FL. My folks are getting to the point I need to be closer. So the choice is easy.
 
Thanks. I lived in Fl for many years so I know the pros and cons. Mt has changed a lot in the last ten years. Not for the better. I still do love it. I always say if I won the lottery Id have a home in MT and FL. My folks are getting to the point I need to be closer. So the choice is easy.
I can understand that. My wife and I are the ones that are getting older.
 
@Alex Wheeler : sorry to bother with you getting ready to move. I thank everyone for their input so far. I ordered a K&M kit this morning. Either David or Roger is there to help you order when you need assistance as I do.
i shot 5 more rounds today out of each rifle. I started reloading in '76 and have never made so sure my chamber, throat, & leade were so dry. The only difference in the brass is the heavy rifle has Peterson SRP loaded w/ 450s & the lightweight rifle has Peterson LRP brass loaded with Fed GM 210.
The heavy rifle didn't have bad bolt lift. It was heavier than the lightweight rifle. Please see attached pics of brass as the brass from the heavy rifle has carbon on the neck where the lightweight one doesn't.
It is a light load of only 41.0 H4350 pushing a 135. Both rifles cut with same reamer.
Thank everyone for your help.….appreciated
 

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Have you tried any other brass? Have you tried the brass in the other rifle? Does the problem follow the brass?
 
No other brass. I was hoping to find some Alpha SRP 25 Creedmoor, but it hasn't been up for sale. These 2 new rifles are the only 25 CMs I have. I would absolutely love the IDOD, but it's out of my budget for one cartridge. Everything else is no-turn.
when I 1st had the heavy bolt lift I do think I had a very slightly wet neck Combined with just barely having enough clearance. With the real attention to detail on drying the bolt lift wasn't as heavy today. I think removing a 1/2 to 1 thou it will take care of it. After looking into neck turning deeper I think I would have the IDOD and turn everything at least 1 time when new.
On the carbon on the neck I'm wondering with the charge so low at 41.0 grains if the rifle with the 450s took longer to build pressure and seal, where the lightweight rifle with the large primers flashed hotter quicker thus sealing the neck before gas could get around it.

Thanks for your help!
 
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No other brass. I was hoping to find some Alpha SRP 25 Creedmoor, but it hasn't been up for sale. These 2 new rifles are the only 25 CMs I have. I would absolutely love the IDOD, but it's out of my budget for one cartridge. Everything else is no-turn.
when I 1st had the heavy bolt lift I do think I had a very slightly wet neck Combined with just barely having enough clearance. With the real attention to detail on drying the bolt lift wasn't as heavy today. I think removing a 1/2 to 1 thou it will take care of it. After looking into neck turning deeper I think I would have the IDOD and turn everything at least 1 time when new.
On the carbon on the neck I'm wondering with the charge so low at 41.0 grains if the rifle with the 450s took longer to build pressure and seal, where the lightweight rifle with the large primers didn't flash hotter quicker thus sealing the neck before gas could get around it.

Thanks for your help!
3 things I found for a good neck seal:
-Uniform neck wall
-Fully fireformed (full length sized is good with a .002 bump)
-Not work hardened.
Hope this helps.
 
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