do you need to start over with load after neck turning?

[Sending156s]

Please read the following:
I own and use the Hornady Neck Turning Tool and I've found that after depriming the brass I tumble it in steel pin media,
Once the brass is clean and dried using a case dryer ( this neck turning procedure is for new or once fired brass shell casings only ) I will FL resize without the bushing inserted in my match grade die set.
Next and this is very important in order to have my cases fit over the Hornady neck turning mandrel I expand the case necks ID by .+001. This is accomplished using the Sinclair Gen 2 expander die with the correct Caliber Specific Sinclair mandrel. ( Sinclair makes these mandrels in + or -.001" increments )
Once you have expanded your case necks ID to a constant size you will find that your cases will easily fit over the Hornady tool's mandrel. Additionally, you will achieve a uniform neck turn,
Typically a -.0002" - a .0005" will true up your case necks OD.
Another note:
Please lubricate your brass before neck turning. I use a small container filled with Mobil 1 5-20 weight oil for neck turning, as brass is very gummy by nature and will gall if not lubricated. For this, I use a small acid brush.

You will have two different carbide turning tools one with a 20 degree and another with a 30-degree angle so you must decide beforehand which cutter you will need.
As this tool is used under the power of a drill and because of tolerance issues you must use the Hornady shell holder again caliber specific.

Other brands of shell holders will not work and most people don't have access to a lathe in order to modify them.
The beauty of the Hornady LNL Neck Turning Tool is that your hands will not get tired because you are using a cordless drill as they would when just using a handheld neck turning tool. You will be amazed at just how smooth and even your case necks will become after neck turning under power.
Next, I will wipe my brass clean the anneal them.

After annealing, I will FL resize my brass using my match grade die and this time I will insert my neck bushing.
This will allow a uniform neck tension which is crucial in establishing a constant bullet jump.
Finally, I will trim to the correct case length, chamfer the ID, and OD, then using my Redding body die and the correct Redding Competition Shell Holder Set bump my cases shoulder -.002" and seat primers, then fill using the correct powder in the correct increment and finally allow for the correct seating depth and jump factor, seat the bullet.

Once assembled I will check and adjust my bullets TIR as needed.
Factory ammunition has an accepted total bullet runout of .003". .I strive to maintain a + -.0005" TIR
In fact, I subscribe to the circle, within a circle within a circle theory.
I know that this is a lengthy dissertation but I hope that this will guide you.
OBTW This tool must be bolted down to be used correctly making certain to leave enough clearance to swing your drill-down for use.
Perhaps a lot of this information you already know but in the event that you do not, I've taken the liberty of reposting it.
Hope this will help as well as give you some food for thought.

I like a lot about what you posted especially using mandrels. I've started using mandrels to set my neck tension. Using 21st century.

have you tried 21st century neck turning lathe. I think it allows all to center better.

have a great evening!

 

[Wedgy]

The 21st Century shell holder is very nice as it clamps into the primer pocket giving a positive lock without needing to over

tighten it.

 

[Bruce Treloar]

Set the cutter so it only takes a skim off the high spots and doesn't touch the low spots around the neck. Don't have the cutter set so that it skims brass off the whole diameter as this will result in over working the brass.
You won't have to work up new loads

 

[3800fps]

In my 50 years of experience chasing ever smaller groups...neck turning is a marginal solution to correcting lopsided brass...(tightneck benchguns excluded)...outside turning, inside rearming are fleeting fixes to imperfect brass.

Start with quality brass ( Lapua, select lots of Winchester, Starline,PMC) culling lopsided neck thicknesses was time better spent than correcting manufacturing defects with expensive reamers and mini-lathes...
Necking down quality brass (270 win to 25-06 rem for example) gives me better accuracy results than neck turning...2nd, 3rd and 4th firings seem to be the sweet spot of brass accuracy life...work hardening, primer pockets start becoming issues degrading accuracy beyond the sweet spot...my 2 cents.

 

[Far North Hunter]

i actually use forester now .... but, i wish forester made an expander die that was made for their exact pilot diameter . or make the turning pilot just shy of what the normal expander button is (per caliber) . i made my own out of a 45acp die set a turned down the seating stems to match foreaters pilot dimension... lets say, my home made ones are less that precision but work

i think the sinclair will be what i try next .. becase they make a die to open the neck up to prefit over their turner pilot

this fit is the most crucial part .. you will see what i mean

another good choice might be the k &m . i think they make different cutter angle bits

Check out 21st century or K&M, as mentioned. They can fix you up.

 

[Blackhawk]

Sinclair with a Forster or Creedmoor Sports base if on a budget, 21st century if budget not tight, brand ? That turns inside & outside of necks if you have the budget I WISHED I had.
Do yourself a favor & stay away from Hornady equipment. They have the best sales team in our sport and an awesome engineering team, but they have most of thier equipment built by low bid China. Can get quality in China, but have to pay for it.

I have been using Hornady reloading equipment reliably for over 10 years and it has stood the test of time.
I have never had any major issues with their LNL brand of reloading equipment whatsoever.

Note:
Any small issues were solved with great haste and absolutely no charge to me.
The support staff as well as technical staff are on par with anyone else.
Where are you getting your supposed information from?

I certainly know for a fact that your information regarding the Hornady LNL brand of Reloading equipment and its reliability issues has been incorrectly stated.
In fairness, I also own and use Sinclair equipment and really respect its quality, finding it both reliable and well manufactured.

There are a great many users on this web page who are in agreement with the above statements.

So, Sir, I am questioning your text regarding the longevity, quality of build, and ease of use of Hornady Reloading Equipment.

I for one have hand-loaded quality ammunition for over 56 years using many brands of equipment without any major malfunctions.

It just boils down to an established routine of safety first last and always. Although through a careful selection, having good reliable equipment is certainly a major factor having a great deal to do with it.

Just so you know, there are other manufactures who are importing some but not all of their product lines as well.
The proof for myself in Horandy and its reloading equipment is stated here in my post!
The only thing that I'm aware of is that both the Hornady Auto Charge Pro as well as the Auto Charge are imported.
I own both and really like the Auto Charge Pro for its simplicity, ease of use, and accuracy.
The other well known electronic powder measures that rhyme with the word" Dress "are also manufactured overseas.
I swear by not at the Hornady Match Grade Reloading Dies.

FYI: I also own Dillon RCBS, Redding, and Lyman reloading presses and related equipment, and each piece was selected after a careful evaluation and review.

Like I said I've been doing this a long time, but am not so proud as to say that I know everything and still learn from the knowledgeable individuals who are members of this website. (The day I die is the day that I stop learning)

Additionally, I am a proud veteran who served in the United States Army from 1968 - 1970 in a place known affectionately as "The Nam".
This term is reserved for veterans who had Boots On The Ground and Actually Were In Country!
In that light, I think I know a thing or two about reloading equipment and how it functions.

Although I value your opinions I must respectfully disagree!
Additionally, I am also an NRA life member with an NRA Certification as an RSO as well as a certified Pistol and Rifle instructor.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

measurememt doesnt matter to me, i aim for the same for my whole lot what ever the measuremnt ends up being ..
start at .015 pick 10 cases and slowly drop the cutter until the surface all the way around gets turned . if you get lower than .012 you probably need different brass

pretty much what I've been doing for my 7rum for clearance... I set up the cutter to clean up the necks, and leave it at that setting as my 7rum is the only rifle I turn for ( rather tight neck)....

 

[oneeyejohn]

You ask about thickness of the neck? I shoot some 30 calaber military brass and find neck thickness difference of up to .005 from one side to the other. I round the necks to between .012/.013 to get them as round as possible then Aneele and resize. This hopefully centers the neck in the case. It also makes better use of the neck bushing die without the neck expander ball. Having prepared the case this way and then using a concentricity gauge the necks are almost always under .002 out of round. I have never had a brass neck of any case brand gauge perfectly round. If the neck outside is with + or- .001 outside the inside should size the same, which means you are as close as possible to a centered bullet in the chamber.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

I tried neck turning. The jury is still out as to whether it works. Mine end up being .009 - .011. Typically about .010. This is with Winchester brass in a 300 WM. If that is too thin I had better not mess up any more of my brass. I need to shoot them a few more times to see if neck turning does indeed help my groups.

if i only have winchester brass , i will start with about 100-200 to make sure i end up with 50 , i may save a second box of 50 if they are close to a full turn "my seconds"

Neck turning is a waste of time unless you have a custom chamber that requires turning.

clearance and needing a crimp is a couple reasons to not neck turn

but ,
you fix bullet run out by turning , after first firing
neck tension variations tighten up immediately , which affects FPS
you will get better Extreme spreads

take your best load in a reg chamber, turn em next time just for gigs , ill bet you'll be surprised

 

[C1Pro]

Sinclair with a Forster or Creedmoor Sports base if on a budget, 21st century if budget not tight, brand ? That turns inside & outside of necks if you have the budget I WISHED I had.
Do yourself a favor & stay away from Hornady equipment. They have the best sales team in our sport and an awesome engineering team, but they have most of thier equipment built by low bid China. Can get quality in China, but have to pay for it.

I agree with you on all points. The IDOD from F class products would be a dream but comes with a price. I suppose the Chineeze will made a cheap copy, just like the recent copy of the Forester CoAxe press.

 

[Sending156s]

I have been using Hornady reloading equipment reliably for over 10 years and it has stood the test of time.
I have never had any major issues with their LNL brand of reloading equipment whatsoever.

Note:
Any small issues were solved with great haste and absolutely no charge to me.
The support staff as well as technical staff are on par with anyone else.
Where are you getting your supposed information from?

I certainly know for a fact that your information regarding the Hornady LNL brand of Reloading equipment and its reliability issues has been incorrectly stated.
In fairness, I also own and use Sinclair equipment and really respect its quality, finding it both reliable and well manufactured.

There are a great many users on this web page who are in agreement with the above statements.

So, Sir, I am questioning your text regarding the longevity, quality of build, and ease of use of Hornady Reloading Equipment.

I for one have hand-loaded quality ammunition for over 56 years using many brands of equipment without any major malfunctions.

It just boils down to an established routine of safety first last and always. Although through a careful selection, having good reliable equipment is certainly a major factor having a great deal to do with it.

Just so you know, there are other manufactures who are importing some but not all of their product lines as well.
The proof for myself in Horandy and its reloading equipment is stated here in my post!
The only thing that I'm aware of is that both the Hornady Auto Charge Pro as well as the Auto Charge are imported.
I own both and really like the Auto Charge Pro for its simplicity, ease of use, and accuracy.
The other well known electronic powder measures that rhyme with the word" Dress "are also manufactured overseas.
I swear by not at the Hornady Match Grade Reloading Dies.

FYI: I also own Dillon RCBS, Redding, and Lyman reloading presses and related equipment, and each piece was selected after a careful evaluation and review.

Like I said I've been doing this a long time, but am not so proud as to say that I know everything and still learn from the knowledgeable individuals who are members of this website. (The day I die is the day that I stop learning)

Additionally, I am a proud veteran who served in the United States Army from 1968 - 1970 in a place known affectionately as "The Nam".
This term is reserved for veterans who had Boots On The Ground and Actually Were In Country!
In that light, I think I know a thing or two about reloading equipment and how it functions.

Although I value your opinions I must respectfully disagree!
Additionally, I am also an NRA life member with an NRA Certification as an RSO as well as a certified Pistol and Rifle instructor.

Sir, I value your opinion even though I have my own. My opinions on Hornady comes from when I go into my heated/cooled dehumidifier reloading shop the only pieces of equipment that have rust on them are Hornady. I know this is a result of cheaper steel. I thought I was getting erroneous readings from my Hornady electronic powder dispenser. I bought a RCBS ChargeMaster during a recent sale at Brownells and pulled out my RCBS triple beams I bought over 45 years ago. I checked and compared charges. Anyone using a Hornady powder dispenser needs to checks it. I believe the RCBS triple beams I bought 45+ years ago was made by Ohaus. The ChargeMaster matched up with the triple beams that I checked calibration on. I'm not advocating the ChargeMaster either, it just what my budget allowed.
it all comes down to opinions. You asked for my reasoning. I hope it made sense. All of us will never agree on everything. I like it that way and wish you a wonderful day. As long as we are enjoying ourselves I think that is the,priority. Good luck and best wishes moving forward.

 

[25WSM]

I bought one of the early hornady neck turning tools about 12 yrs ago and it was a complete waste of money. Total junk. I really do think the hornady equipment is much better today than in the past. A friend of mine just won a bunch of state championships using a hornady lock n load press. But presses and specialty tools are 2 different things and some companies specialize in accuracy equipment. They typically cost more but are better. It's your money give it to who you want. I'll pay more to have the best and only have to buy it once. I do have an old lee aluminum press I bought over 30 yrs ago that still works perfectly. It was the cheapest thing I could find at the time. Was still in the military and had no money. But it got the job done. Would I buy another one now. ?
Shep