What do you consider good enough?

I got so excited I forgot
Has anyone mentioned neck tension?
I have been planning to try graphite on the bottom of the bullet when I put it in the case to see if that will give me a more consistent neck tension
Adding graphite helps seat a bullet your brass has elastic properties and unless your neck turn8ng and using proper neck bushings you won't get proper neck tension.. it will throw off concentrocity and cause pressure problems.
 
.002 neck tension. I'm using Redding bushing dies. .0015 shoulder bump
Hey I was wondering after I read you bump your shoulder back .0015... instead take a firefirmed case and use that as a reference point for bumping shoulder...try only bumping .0001 and neck sizing afterwards.
Rounds will chamber and concentricity will give you more accuracy in theory anyhow that's what I do.. I find the closer my brass is too my chamber dimensions the Better I used to full length my brass and found it caused a lot of stress on cases needing to be annealed , trimmed more. Hope that may help
 
Well like I've said I'm done messing with the 147s. If my rifle doesnt like it then theres noting I can do to change it. I should have known better than to buy 500 of them before trying them. Got drunk on the BC number lol. I'm just trying to decide on selling them and moving or testing them at distance. I'll probably end up selling them for what I paid for them.
Have you tried 136 grain Lapua Scenar? Very easy to load and great ballistics maybe a heavier 139 Scenar?
Any how good luck
 
Deviation good?

If so, it may settle at longer distances and reduce MOA.

This is entirely possible, in my 260 Remington, 142gr LR Accubonds shoot 3/4 - 7/8 MOA at 100 and then settle down around 300 yards and consitantly group at 1/2 MOA. I have been told that this is referred to a bullet "going to sleep".
 
This is entirely possible, in my 260 Remington, 142gr LR Accubonds shoot 3/4 - 7/8 MOA at 100 and then settle down around 300 yards and consitantly group at 1/2 MOA. I have been told that this is referred to a bullet "going to sleep".
Set up a target at 100 yds and another behind it at 300 yds. Shoot through the first and into the second this will compare the two distances accurately.
 
Let your rifle tell you what bullet and load it likes with the configuration you currently have. 100yd groups look nice on the internet, but may not mean squat at distance. Shoot your 3 best loads at 300 to 500 yards and you'll find out what the rifle harmonics like, not what some guy on the internet thinks he knows about your set-up.
 
Guess I am late to the game here, however; Yes the 6.5 Creedmore can nail it out to 1,000 yards. Do the math; if you can put em in a dime at 100 yards, that means 6 inch group at 500. Now; not considering wind, spin drift and coriolis effect, and yes you will have a one foot group at 1,000 yards if you can put em all in a dime at 100 yards. Now work on a mile, :)
 
This is entirely possible, in my 260 Remington, 142gr LR Accubonds shoot 3/4 - 7/8 MOA at 100 and then settle down around 300 yards and consitantly group at 1/2 MOA. I have been told that this is referred to a bullet "going to sleep".
The ABLR's shoot better past 500 yds in most of my weapons! I use the 6.5's in my 6.5 Creed, 26 Nosler, the 168 ABLR in my 7mm STW, 7 mag and 308 and 300 RUM they all group tighter past 500 must be a stability issue!
 
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I'm abandoning the 147. I shot the 140 eld again with 41 grains of rl-16 and a winchetser wlr primer. 2863 fps with an sd of 4 over 5 shots. Anyone want some 147s?
Try the Nosler 130 gr RDF over 42.9 gr Hodgdon H4350 2,864 fps in a 24" gas gun. Getting .124" groups at 100
 
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