What Brake?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by tweek1142, Jan 1, 2013.

  1. tweek1142

    tweek1142 Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2012
    Does anyone have info on what brake i should install on my factory Remington 300 WSM? these are the ones im looking at:

    Hart Muzzle Brake
    Muscle Brake
    Painkiller Muscle Brake

    what one would be the best at recoil reduction but more importantly keeping debris from blowing all over when shooting in the prone postion.

    Also my Dad has a Hart Brake on his. It reduces the recoil off his 300 WSM to 243 recoil. but i throws A LOT of debris when in Prone position. So i have experience with the Hart and don't want that. He is also wondering if he could order either a Muscle Brake or Painkiller Brake and just screw it onto the current threads he has from his Hart Brake or will he have to have his rifle sent in for re thread and install.

    Thanks for all the info

  2. yorke-1

    yorke-1 Well-Known Member

    Jul 5, 2008
    The Muscle Brake or the Painkiller would probably be your best bet. I've been very impressed with the Muscle Brake. I have one on a rifle and one on a SP. The rifle is a 375 BME shooting the 350gr Sierra Mk at 3000fps. It feels like a 308/30-06. The SP is a Savage Striker in 338/375 Ruger (often called the 338 Campfire). It's hard to come up with a comparable pistol to compare recoil to, but it's very manageable shooting 250gr Sierra Mks at 2650.
    338/375 Ruger Savage Striker

    I don't have any first hand experience with the Painkiller Brake, but I imagine it's just as effective as the Muscle Brake while offering the same advantages as the other side discharge brakes.

    With any of the side discharge brakes, you will most likely need to have a smith "time" the brake to the rifle so that the ports are properly positioned.

  3. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

    Jan 16, 2008
    The brake that will likely throw the least amount of debris is the Muscle Brake. This is because the port closest to the shooter is at a 90* angle. This may deflect some of the gases being thrown back in your direction from the two ports in front (which are angled back towards the shooter).

    In terms of recoil reduction, you want to do your best not to remove too much material when fitting it to your barrel.

    Tweek is correct in that one of these other brakes may screw right on to your Dad's rifle if the thread pitch matches, but it will need to be 'timed' so that when it is screwed down tight, the ports are in the proper position.
  4. jamaro

    jamaro Well-Known Member

    Dec 24, 2007
    Don't laugh but.... I have a .300 win mag with a blued barrel... Is there anyway of getting the muscle break blued? I think it would just look goofy...

  5. tweek1142

    tweek1142 Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2012
    if the thread depth is the same (amount of threads are equal from break to break) then the timing should be ok correct?

    Does anyone know what the tpi is on a hart break?

    thanks again
  6. IdahoCTD

    IdahoCTD Well-Known Member

    Oct 22, 2008
    If you don't have a thread gauge you can set a pair of calipers to 1/4" or 1/2" depending on how many threads you have. Set it on the threads and count how many you have. If it's 6 in 1/4" then it's 24tpi, 7 is 28tpi, and 8 is 32tpi. The amount of threads doesn't matter for timing. It's where in the rotation the threads start versus where the shoulder is that the brake stops against.
  7. Erik Kiser

    Erik Kiser Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2005
    The odds of just threading a brake on and it being timed right is pretty slim. You'll need a gunsmith to do the install and bore the brake to the right size for your caliber
  8. Nimrodmar10

    Nimrodmar10 Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2011
    They also make crush washers in different thicknesses to time a brake, just like on the AR-15s. Just order the size to match your thread diameter.
  9. joe0121

    joe0121 Well-Known Member

    Jul 29, 2010

    Ding Ding Ding

    Also I have thisGoGunUSA - Rifle Brakes on my AR and it is amazing. Reduces recoil a ton and more importantly the sight dont move off target. I can put 5.56 green tips on a 8 inch plate at 100 yards as fast as I can pull the trigger. gun)
    Going to get on for my 300 WM and my .308
  10. OneShot0351

    OneShot0351 Well-Known Member

    Dec 11, 2010
    SAS Tactical Muzzle Brakes - Home

    SAS tactical brakes, they have the website listed above, a facebook page, and a page on Ebay, and for anything extra custom he will send a paypal invoice, you can chose any style you want, streamlined or custom look. multiple metal choices, custom design your ports, length, diameter, taper, type of crown, and finish and you cannot beat the price for this work anywhere.
  11. vendetta333

    vendetta333 Well-Known Member

    Jul 2, 2011
    does anybody know if clamp on brakes need to be timed. i assumed the advantage to their clamp on nature would be the lack of timing. i assume the brake would still need to be backed all the way to the shoulder of the threads?
  12. sj-pratt

    sj-pratt Official LRH Sponsor

    Dec 7, 2006
    I have a really nice Titanium Brake but it also would require a gunsmith for installation.
    I have in the past used black or blued Gun=kote to color the brakes and it looks really nice.

    Good Luck

    Attached Files:

  13. Sako7STW

    Sako7STW Well-Known Member

    Feb 12, 2004
    You can do a search for Ross Schuler on here and the net. Excellent brakes with even better service and cant be beat on the cost. His will fix your flying debris problem as well!
  14. deadlift

    deadlift Official LRH Sponsor

    Dec 18, 2011
    We have the tactical muscle break that has a timing slot and bolt that really works slick for addressing the timing issue. But another notable break is our "miller special" its a 3 port side discharge thats very effictive and has a timing detent for guys that run cans also.
    Benchmark Barrels