Uniform Case Length?

[birdiemc]

I've tried to search the history and can't find an answer so forgive me if this has been asked a thousand times. How important is uniform case length? I see most people answer the question of how often to trim with every "x" number of firings. I just sized my brass .002 bump on the shoulder, everything is within .001 shoulder to base, but my cases vary 2.002-2.009. 2nd firing. .308 so well below book max case length 2.015. So is .007 difference going to effect group size?
I've been playing with reloading for a year now, but had rifle problems so never felt really successful yet. Finally got all the kinks worked out with the rifle shooting sub MOA so now I want to focus on getting accurate hand loads. Is this something to worry about or just load em up and get on with life?

 

[MagnumManiac]

It may or may not.
If your rifle is a genuine .2 or less shooter then it probably will affect group size, if it isn't it won't be seen on target.
I don't trim until I am within .005" of my chamber end, this is found by using/making a chamber end tool, then I trim the cases .005".
If you trim .010" from max book length, do it when ALL the cases need it.

Cheers.

 

[birdiemc]

Well I've managed to shoot just three 0.5" groups at 100yds and a 10 shot group 1.3" since I got the kinks worked out, and that's all I've fired through it since then. Definitely not calling it a .2" rifle, but I'm pretty sure shooting from a more stable bench I can tighten that up. Was using factory ammo, used it all up. That's why I'm trying to see if case length difference is going to matter. I think I found a bullet it likes so want to load that up and start playing

 

[Rick Richard]

Consistency, consistency, consistency within the entire reloading process is what is required to squeeze the most out of your shots. So, if your wanting to shoot benchrest accuracy, then trim all to the same length. Remember, this is only one part of the equation: equal case length, case capacity, case uniformity, neck thickness, concentricity, projectile weight and etc. Get the picture?

 

[Barrelnut]

It really won't affect anything. I would continue to shoot them until they all are greater than 2.005 and still less than 2.015. Then trim them all at the same time back to 2.005 and you will be good to go from then on out. After that trim them each firing or wait till they reach max again and/or experiment if you want.

 

[Canhunter35]

I agree with barrelnut, shoot until you need to trim then trim back to the min. Things such as annealing and uniforming flash holes are little things that I've found greatly help accuracy

 

[birdiemc]

Consistency, consistency, consistency within the entire reloading process is what is required to squeeze the most out of your shots. So, if your wanting to shoot benchrest accuracy, then trim all to the same length. Remember, this is only one part of the equation: equal case length, case capacity, case uniformity, neck thickness, concentricity, projectile weight and etc. Get the picture?

So with Winchester brass that I bought (all I could find new at the time) plus the various different brass I've saved over the years for reloading all makes, is it likely that I will be able to get decent consistency in grouping, or am I better off just starting over with some better quality brass and not waste my time with what I have saved up.

 

[Canhunter35]

So with Winchester brass that I bought (all I could find new at the time) plus the various different brass I've saved over the years for reloading all makes, is it likely that I will be able to get decent consistency in grouping, or am I better off just starting over with some better quality brass and not waste my time with what I have saved up.

I was in the same position with an assortment of federal and Remington brass for my 308. I bought a 100 pieces of lapua brass, I did get tighter groups especially at long range, but after annealling the mixture of brass, levelling primer pockets and uniforming the flash holes, I cannot see the difference.

I shot this at 880yds with two federal brass and one Remington so decide what you want to do. With work it's plenty serviceable but new brass is always an option.

 

[birdiemc]

Thank you Canhunter. How do you personally anneal your brass. I've read about annealing till my eyes rolled back in my head, but with results like that picture you put up, seems like I might have to suck it up and give it a go....
Ya know when I got my press for Christmas a year or two ago, i thought you just pulled the handle and out popped a magical perfect round. Haha.

 

[Canhunter35]

I set up a butane torch and use a socket on a cordless impact then slowly rotate the case neck just outside the tip of the flame. I watch the colour change and try to stop at the same spot on the case body.

 

[Hand Skills]

^^^ simplest way to anneal with tools most of us already have. Once critical temp has been achieved, I use gravity to transport the case from the socket into a tray of water. Doesn't have to be an impact driver either. A 1/4" hex to 3/8" square socket adapter can be chucked in most any handheld drill.

 

[Barrelnut]

I use the cordless drill, socket, torch method too.

 

[L.Sherm]

The only thing your gonna have to be careful of is a carbon ring in your neck chamber with varying neck length. Keep the neck scrubbed good. If you shoot the shorter ones alot first and start a ring and then a longer one could create pressure.
As stated above consistancy helps all the way around.

 

[Canhunter35]

^^^ simplest way to anneal with tools most of us already have. Once critical temp has been achieved, I use gravity to transport the case from the socket into a tray of water. Doesn't have to be an impact driver either. A 1/4" hex to 3/8" square socket adapter can be chucked in most any handheld drill.

I recently stopped using the tray of water, the annealing seems to be equally effective either way?? I can't tell if one is better than the other anyways