It's the way I was shown, I'm no scientific dude. Drying is an extra step I'd fancy removing from process.There is no need to drop your annealed brass in water. It does nothing for the metal structure of the brass.
It's the way I was shown, I'm no scientific dude. Drying is an extra step I'd fancy removing from process.There is no need to drop your annealed brass in water. It does nothing for the metal structure of the brass.
I've tried to search the history and can't find an answer so forgive me if this has been asked a thousand times. How important is uniform case length? I see most people answer the question of how often to trim with every "x" number of firings. I just sized my brass .002 bump on the shoulder, everything is within .001 shoulder to base, but my cases vary 2.002-2.009. 2nd firing. .308 so well below book max case length 2.015. So is .007 difference going to effect group size?
I've been playing with reloading for a year now, but had rifle problems so never felt really successful yet. Finally got all the kinks worked out with the rifle shooting sub MOA so now I want to focus on getting accurate hand loads. Is this something to worry about or just load em up and get on with life?
I was in the same position with an assortment of federal and Remington brass for my 308. I bought a 100 pieces of lapua brass, I did get tighter groups especially at long range, but after annealling the mixture of brass, levelling primer pockets and uniforming the flash holes, I cannot see the difference.
I shot this at 880yds with two federal brass and one Remington so decide what you want to do. With work it's plenty serviceable but new brass is always an option.View attachment 117516
Not to get too far off track but, so long as the bullet fits the magazine, I would argue COAL is about the least important measurement we can go by in reloading. It's much more important to have an accurate CBTO (base to ogive) measurement. Agree with you on the factory crimp.The key factor in accuracy is C.O.A.L and a factory crimp.