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trim length question

jbs2014

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Dec 31, 2015
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Location
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All

What trim lengths do you use for the 408 and 375 Cheytac cartridges? I looked my reloading manuals that I have and could not find anything on them.

Thank you
 
according to wikkapedia 408 case length is 3.040"
I don't know if that has any help or value for you
Did you buy loaded ammo at the start? If so measure the case length and duplicate.
If not then what I would do is measure all of my fired cases and subtract .005" from the shortest at least you would have a set norm for your gear
 
All

What trim lengths do you use for the 408 and 375 Cheytac cartridges? I looked my reloading manuals that I have and could not find anything on them.

Thank you

If you measure a new unfired piece of brass, this is the 'trim to length', all factory brass is supplied .010" under max case length.
If 3.040" is max, then the trim to length is 3.030.

My 505 Gibbs measure 3.140" on new brass, max is 3.150". Go figure.

Cheers.
gun)
 
All

What trim lengths do you use for the 408 and 375 Cheytac cartridges? I looked my reloading manuals that I have and could not find anything on them.

Thank you


Make a Maximum Chamber length gauge.
Cut half the neck from a sized case, ream the cut off piece so it has about. 001" neck tension just so it stays on the bullet.
Chamber the round and measure several times until you get a consistent measurement.
I always trim to .020" short of my maximum chamber length. Most chambers are so long you won't have to worry about it, just trim them all the same.
 

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If you measure a new unfired piece of brass, this is the 'trim to length', all factory brass is supplied .010" under max case length.
If 3.040" is max, then the trim to length is 3.030.

My 505 Gibbs measure 3.140" on new brass, max is 3.150". Go figure.

Cheers.
gun)

I will try that technique. Do you think it will hold true with the brass that iq metals is selling? This is a description from their webpage:

"The shoulder of this brass is rounded under-sized; it will actually chamber just fine, and fire-form *without* issues(cracks, stress marks, etc)."

Thanks again
 
I will try that technique. Do you think it will hold true with the brass that iq metals is selling? This is a description from their webpage:

"The shoulder of this brass is rounded under-sized; it will actually chamber just fine, and fire-form *without* issues(cracks, stress marks, etc)."

Thanks again

I believe it should be fine.

Cheers.
gun)
 
One other quick question do you use the RCBS hand priming tool to prime your Cheytac rounds? Is it large enough and will the shell holder that is made by viersco fit in it do you suppose?

Thank you
 
One other quick question do you use the RCBS hand priming tool to prime your Cheytac rounds? Is it large enough and will the shell holder that is made by viersco fit in it do you suppose?

Thank you

I believe if a standard shell holder fits, so will any made for the cheytac.

My hand priming tool has the universal jaws, gave my shell holder type one away years ago.

I have no choice but to prime on my RockChucker Supreme.

Cheers.
gun)
 
I believe if a standard shell holder fits, so will any made for the cheytac.

My hand priming tool has the universal jaws, gave my shell holder type one away years ago.

I have no choice but to prime on my RockChucker Supreme.

Cheers.
gun)
what brand of hand priming tooldo you have that has UNIVERSALJaws?Id like to get one.I hate shell holders
 
what brand of hand priming tooldo you have that has UNIVERSALJaws?Id like to get one.I hate shell holders

I have two - one set up for large and one set up for small. It's not hard to change back and forth between primer sizes, but I came across a second and grabbed it.
 

I have two - one set up for large and one set up for small. It's not hard to change back and forth between primer sizes, but I came across a second and grabbed it.
Thank you.I like thatno shell holders .Can You set the Primer Seating Depth like the Frankford Arsenal too?
 
No, there's no indicator on it. There's also a lot of slop in the tool, I've measured pretty significant "feel seating" inconsistency with my PrimeWhere that's proved to me there's no way to seat accurately to a certain depth with this tool.

I use a CPS for things that matter, and the RCBS hand primers for things that don't. It's not that they're bad tools, certainly not every load needs a tuned primer seating depth, and they work great for what they are. Very easy way to knock out small batches very fast.

I really like the CPS, it does everything that it promised it would do. But I know it's expensive - I'll fully admit that the single biggest reason I bought a CPS was because it's bench mounted and has a big handle. Greg even sells a special 5" larger handle for people like me that don't have the hand strength to run a hand primer. K+M, FA, 21st Century, all of them make great tools, I just can't run them more than a dozen cases before I have to stop. Seems like a lot of other guys here (and competition shooters) make great loads with other tools, but my circumstances made the money easy to spend.
 
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