TIGHTEN PRIMER POCKETS, here's how.

Re: Modifying Factory Sizing Die

I did something similar last week. I'd ordered custom dies for my 338 Lapua Rogue. The first set of dies I received, the FL sizing die was larger in diameter than the ID of the bullet seating sleeve. That causes me to investigate further and conclude that the FL sizing die was manufactured defectively, compared to my chamber reamer spec sheet.

So I contacted the die manufacturer and they make another FL neck bushing resizing die - to the same exact dimensions as the original one!! Say what?? I'm telling them this isn't going to work, and they tell me to send in the die and they'll check it out. So I send one of the two oversized FL dies back to the manufacturer, and include the sleeve for their bullet seating die so they can see that the FL sizing die is larger in diameter than the bullet seating die sleeve.

The company rep is polite, and professional, but a little frustrated. Anyhow, they manufacture a third FL neck bushing sizing die, AND and an additional sleeve for my bullet seating die. This time the FL sizing die is a couple thousandths smaller in diameter than the first two (about the same ID as the bullet seating sleeve), and the 2nd bullet seating sleeve is an exact clone of the original bullet seating sleeve. So now I've got two bullet seating die sleeves and two FL custom sizing dies. I've still got serious doubts that even the 3rd FL sizing die is small enough in ID to properly resize fired cases for free chambering in my rifle. Sure enough, the 3rd FL resizing die is unable to size down the web area of my full pressure fired cases. So as I'm trying to decide whether or not to contact the manufacturer a 4th time, I remember I have an extra FL bushing sizing die.

What to do??? Innovate... I fill a container with cold water and grab my Makita hand-held grinder with a 4 1/4" course grinding wheel. I submerge the die in the water and grind 1/4" off the base of the die. Next I grind all the way thru the die just below the shoulder joint of the die. The water bath maintains the heat treated hardness of the FL sizing die while I'm grinding away for a good 10 minutes to cut off the top of the FL die. Next I grind the two ends of the die relatively flat and square. Then use a Dremel tool with a diamond burr to remove the rough inner edges that would scratch the cases while resizing them. I also used some emery paper to smooth up the entry edges on the die, and I run the two cut ends of the die back and forth over a carborundum sharpening stone to flatten each end so it doesn't look like a Jed Clampett tool.

Long story, but the bastardized body stub from the original FL sizing die works like a charm to properly size down the web area now. The trouble is, I paid $300 for a custom die and I still don't have a custom FL resizing die that properly resizes my cases with a single resizing step. So that remains a bummer, but at least I'm able to resize fired casings, as I think about whether or not to contact the manufacturer a 4th time, in the effort obtain a FL neck bushing sizing die of the proper dimensions.
 
Apology for transferring off-topic, but it is in the continuing spirit of innovation. Same as tbrice23's homemade primer pocket tightening tool. For those with access to a lathe, the modifications I made could be done more professionally. Other than the Jed Clampett look, mine works just as well. :D:D
 
TA406, that's another great idea. I guess I could just cut the top off of a body die and grind the base until sized the RUM brass where I need it to be. If I get enough bad cases I'll give it a try.
 
I don't think you'll have any luck trying to cut thru a hardened full length resizing die with a hack saw or Sawsall blade. I didn't even attempt it. If it works, please let us know.
 
Re: Modifying Factory Sizing Die

What to do??? Innovate... I fill a container with cold water and grab my Makita hand-held grinder with a 4 1/4" course grinding wheel. I submerge the die in the water and grind 1/4" off the base of the die. Next I grind all the way thru the die just below the shoulder joint of the die. The water bath maintains the heat treated hardness of the FL sizing die while I'm grinding away for a good 10 minutes to cut off the top of the FL die. Next I grind the two ends of the die relatively flat and square. Then use a Dremel tool with a diamond burr to remove the rough inner edges that would scratch the cases while resizing them. I also used some emery paper to smooth up the entry edges on the die, and I run the two cut ends of the die back and forth over a carborundum sharpening stone to flatten each end so it doesn't look like a Jed Clampett tool.

Long story, but the bastardized body stub from the original FL sizing die works like a charm to properly size down the web area now. The trouble is, I paid $300 for a custom die and I still don't have a custom FL resizing die that properly resizes my cases with a single resizing step. So that remains a bummer, but at least I'm able to resize fired casings, as I think about whether or not to contact the manufacturer a 4th time, in the effort obtain a FL neck bushing sizing die of the proper dimensions.

Good work Phorwath. I hadn't thought of doing it that way. At $265 a shot for my Redding Type S 338 dies I might take your idea and look for some cheaper 338 Edge dies to hack off.
 
I don't think you'll have any luck trying to cut thru a hardened full length resizing die with a hack saw or Sawsall blade. I didn't even attempt it. If it works, please let us know.
I agree. I've parted casehardened shafts by mounting it in a lathe and using a diegrinder to cut it while it's spinning in the chuck. A drill press would work if you don't have a lathe.
 
Of course a die grinder, I'm grinding a die ! Not sure what else you could use but I'm sure I don't have one. Not worried about getting it hot at the top either, and it might not be the prettiest looking die....
 
I agree. I've parted casehardened shafts by mounting it in a lathe and using a diegrinder to cut it while it's spinning in the chuck. A drill press would work if you don't have a lathe.

Yup, I got it cut with the best tools I had in the garage. Submerging the die in water kept the sparks from flying and kept it all cool. A machinist would probably puke watching how I went about it.
 
Ok so when I finally got time to read this without being interrupted I attributed TA406 with credit for LRSicle's post of making the base sizing die that gave me the idea for cutting off one of my cheap RCBS FL dies. I started typing then had to leave but in the meantime Phorpath had already done the die modification I was thinking about. Great idea, you guys are way ahead of me.

Any idea what makes some of the RUM cases bulge out like that so they won't camber ? Of mine most were factory 150 grain loads and the others were not over pressured( no ejector or flat primers), and the others were on a 2nd firing. Seems like around 1 out of every 10 or so cases. Weak brass ?
 
Any idea what makes some of the RUM cases bulge out like that so they won't camber ? Of mine most were factory 150 grain loads and the others were not over pressured( no ejector or flat primers), and the others were on a 2nd firing. Seems like around 1 out of every 10 or so cases. Weak brass ?

I have the issue too, and I am way under pressure with 87 Gr. H1000. Not all 300 RUM brass is the same. I can only get 1 firing from Nosler brass because it is thick at the web and just one firing makes the web grow and the brass will not chamber. Remington brass is smaller at the web. I can get 3 firings before it swells and won't fit the chamber.
I have some Hornady brass that I have yet to try. It has a smaller diameter web than the Remington. If I'm lucky, I get 4 firings!

I have some numbers on this that I will look up tomorrow. I'm loading 300 WSM right now and should pay attention to what I'm doing...

Good thread.
 
Yeah, my setup isn't perfect. I did have to chase the ball bearing around more than a few times. I tightened up the primer pockets on about 15 casings and probably had to chase down the ball bearing 20 times. :)

I think I'll hollow out the surface of the steel plate a bit deeper with a carbide burr in my Dremel tool. And then tack weld the ball bearing to the surface of the steel plate. That will keep the ball bearing from jumping up and off onto the floor after striking the bolt with the hammer. No way will the ball bearing AND small piece of steel plate bounce together - too much weight combined for them to take off into space.
If its a chrome ball bearing I would use a chrome filler rod to tig ( heliarc) weld it with.
 
If its a chrome ball bearing I would use a chrome filler rod to tig ( heliarc) weld it with.

Yup, good idea Brice. I wonder if a torch and brazing rod would hold up. Yes, no, maybe?
One good thing about your ball bearing method vs my push-through die is you can use yours for any caliber but mine is limited to the parent case I made it for. I wish I would have read your thread sooner. I just threw away some 6.5x284 brass for loose primer pockets.

Good thread. I like the initial subject and all the subsequent tips that come out of it.
 
If its a chrome ball bearing I would use a chrome filler rod to tig (heliarc) weld it with.

You're presuming I'm a more accomplished welder than I am. I've got an old MillerMatic 200 wire feed welder. Never had any formal welding training/schooling. But I've welded a lot of steel together, and some aluminum also.

What will happen if I squeeze the ball bearing against the 1/2" thick steel plating in a bench vise to compress them together tightly and tack weld it in three or four locations with some basic steel welding wire? I don't care if it looks nice or not. As long as the ball bearing tack welds don't break free. Will regular/common welding wire stick to the hardened ball bearing? I don't know if they're chrome ball bearings or not. Can't recall as I bought them on Amazon shortly after you first started this Thread. I wanted 5/8" ball bearings and I could only find that size in a 10 pack. They still didn't cost all that much. Any welders among us?
 
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