• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Texas Custom Rifles

mountainman56

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
770
Location
West Texas
Has anybody heard of this outfit? A friend of mine recently purchased a custom 300 win mag from here. Beautiful looking lightweight hunting rifle. Stiller predator action, jewel trigger, fluted barrel, Swarovski 4-12 with the BRX reticle, Bell and Carlson lightweight stock and a small slab side muzzle brake. Looks great, nice balance and can't get it to shoot worth crap. The owner doesn't have the time or the interest to hand load and wants to shoot factory ammunition. Tried five different kinds of ammunition at 100 and 500 yards with very poor results. Checked everything I could without pulling the stock off so far. Only thing I've found is the bore on the muzzle brake is only .317. That clearance seems awfully tight but I can't see any indication of hits. Intend to try it with the brake off next trip (got over 100 degrees and we surrendered). Can such tight clearance have a detrimental effect? If that doesn't work I guess I'll have to pull it apart, check the bedding and start with the basics.

Just seems wrong with a new custom. I told him to take it back but he is hesitant to do so as we live a long ways from his smith and he is heading out on a marco polo sheep hunt in the not too distant future (poor guy).

On the up side my old, nearly all original (except for the firing pin and the stock) shot a 2.6" group at 500. Maybe I'll have to put it in his lightweight stock and send him hunting. :rolleyes:
 
What kind of accuracy are you getting out of this rifle?

.317 sure is cutting it close. I personally like to run about .015-.020" of clearance per side, but if its aligned correctly i dont think .317 is too tight. Typically the closer the inside diameter of the muzzle break or suppressor is to the outside diameter of the bullet, the more efficiently it will work. You said you didnt see any strikes, so chances are its not the culprit.

If i were in you shoes, i would do exactly as you said and disassemble the rifle looking for anything out of the ordinary. Then re-assemble following torque specs, on scope and rail, and action, clean the barrel thoroughly, and try again.

I dont hold factory ammunition to the same standards as hand loads because there are so many variables that could be causing bad accuracy.
If i were to use factory ammunition i would try to get something like federal or hornady, that typically has a good rep for consistent accuracy, good brass, and utilizes a bullet with a tangent ogive.

I would also not hesitate to call the smith and ask for help or recommendations. Those guys usually know how to make their rifles shoot.
 
What kind of accuracy are you getting out of this rifle?

Can't really call it accuracy.........best group at 500 yards was still over 10". That's pretty sad no matter what ammo. Probably something simple. Cleaned it yesterday and no signs of copper fouling so must have a nice smooth bore. Checked action torque and it's fine, checked barrel clearance, fine. Not much left but to pull it apart..........or send him a link to Len's rifles :)
 
10" ouch!
Yeah thats not cool. I guess you have no choice but to tear it apart and have a look. I would probablly call the smith too, and ask for help.

Yeah, I'm going to give him a call in the morning......no sense ruining his Sunday. :). I got a bigger/stronger backlit magnifying glass and I'm almost convinced I can see some marks inside the brake. I'm going to pull it apart and check the bedding then I will shoot it without the brake. It sure wouldn't take much of a hit to ruin accuracy. The crown looks fine, in fact everything on the rifle looks professionally done.
 
Yeah, I'm going to give him a call in the morning......no sense ruining his Sunday. :). I got a bigger/stronger backlit magnifying glass and I'm almost convinced I can see some marks inside the brake. I'm going to pull it apart and check the bedding then I will shoot it without the brake. It sure wouldn't take much of a hit to ruin accuracy. The crown looks fine, in fact everything on the rifle looks professionally done.

That would make a lot of sense
Post back up after you shoot it without the brake.
 
By the way, most brake manufacturers spec 0.020" clearance total. A 308 call should be reamed to 0.328" or more. I'm told one of the concerns if copper buildup eventually contacting the bullet. As tight as that brake is, it wouldn't take long.
 
By the way, most brake manufacturers spec 0.020" clearance total. A 308 call should be reamed to 0.328" or more. I'm told one of the concerns if copper buildup eventually contacting the bullet. As tight as that brake is, it wouldn't take long.

Thanks for the info. Guess I'd better ream the brake as well as bed the action. Would have liked to have seen a larger recoil lug also. Kinda disappointing but at least I've found a starting point.
 
It shoots!

Bedded the action as well as the ring bases. Came with lightweight talley integral rings/bases installed. The Stiller action must be slightly larger in diameter as the bases were just touching on the very outside edges. Lapped the rings and torqued everything properly. Brake was not the issue at all and when cleaned up properly had ample clearance.

Just returned from the range and rifle shot sub moa at 100 and 300 yards with factory Federal ammo. Owner has a big grin and now wants me to work up a hand load. I'm just tickled it shoots. Needless to say he ain't too proud of his smith.
 
Thats great news! Im surprised it wasnt bedded, that seems odd to me. Good job getting it straightened out.

The 215 & 230 berger are pretty evil in the 300WM when you decide to work up a load.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top