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Sticky Cartridge Help

SimpleMind949

Active Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
25
Let me preference this by letting you know that I am new to this, so I really any support you may be able to provide.

I recently purchased a Remington 700 Long Range in 7mm Rem Mag and have been breaking it in following a couple different regiments. The first regiment was by shooting 20 rounds (I used Hornady 165g ELD-X) cleaning with Hoppe's 9 after each of the first 5 shots and then after every 5th shot. I then shot 20 more rounds waiting for the chamber and barrel to cool between each shot. I tracked ammo and bore temperature as well as muzzle velocity. The ammo and temperature stayed very consistent and the muzzle velocity, as expected, slowly increased from low 2800s to mid 2900s. On the 38th and then the 40th round I had a difficult time ejecting the cartridge with no excessive change in velocity. Concerned, I stopped shooting for the day and consulted a more experienced friend who was concerned that the issue may be a pressure issue caused by excessive copper accumulation. I inspected the cartridges for other pressure signs including flatten primers and increased diameter at the belt, but all the primers looked the same and the diameter was only increasing on average .0016". So at that, point not knowing what else to do, I decided to follow a more comprehensive cleaning regiment which included copper removal using Sweets 7.62.

Before returning to the field I first did a thorough cleaning and removed all traces of copper. This time I followed the following regiment; Shoot 1 shot and clean with Shooters Choice on brush and then with Sweets on patch removing all the copper for the first 30 shots and then every 5th shoot for the next 30 rounds. This took several trips to the range. I used Federal 150g Trophy Copper this time and tracked case diameter change, ammo and chamber temperature, and muzzle velocity. The last 30 rounds I also tracked accuracy. I did not have any problems with stuck cartridges until the 53 and 55 shots which were both a bit sticky. After cleaning again the last 5 shots went fine. My groups through the last 30 shots were not great, 1.7 to 3.1 MOA. So at that point I started trying other factory ammo to see if I could get anything to group. I shot two 5 round groups of Black Hills Gold 139g GMX with horrible results, 4.854 and 4.778 MOA. Muzzle velocity averaged 3064 with an standard div. of 26 and extreme spread of 78 fps and had two sticky cartridges on the 7th and 9th shot. I then cleaned and removed the copper again and tried HSM Trophy Gold 168g Berger VLD. The first shot was a dead bull's-eye but the cartridge was so stuck I could not remove it until I got home and used a rubber mallet. I inspected the brass and was able to take the picture below showing scratches that continue around the circumference of the cartridge, however there was only a .0042" increase in diameter at the belt.

Needles to say, I am at a loss of how to proceed and I would really appreciate any suggestions.

Cheers!
 

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Looks like your die is not resizing the portion of case above the belt to proper dimension. Fairly common with belted mags and loose chamber.
Google Larry Willis collet die, should fix the problem.
 
Looks like your die is not resizing the portion of case above the belt to proper dimension. Fairly common with belted mags and loose chamber.
Google Larry Willis collet die, should fix the problem.
I am using factory ammo. Do you think reloading using correctly resized brass will fix the problem?
 
IMO you are shooting too many rounds before cleaning. This is a factory Remington barrel not known for its smoothness. Using Hoppe's #9 was a bad choice for doing your break in as it didn't do anything but remove SOME of powder residue at best.

I believe your issue was an extreme buildup of fouling causing excessive pressure. 220 Swift owners encountered this back when the chambering was first introduced as no one back then knew how to remove excessive fouling. Your chronograph told you that pressure was building with the higher velocities.

I would suggest you shoot no more than 20-25 rounds and clean up with the sweets. It is worth mentioning you need to neutralize the ammonia in the Sweets and THIS would be a good use for the Hoppe's #9.

I would also suggest you employ some Remington 40X bore cleaner or JB Bore Paste as part of your cleaning regimen. AND even using some Iosso wouldn't hurt.

If you could get a view through a bore scope you would be able to see if your barrel is absolutely clean or if there is some reason for it to get so fouled.
 
With factory ammo you shouldn't be getting tight cases unless the ammo is loaded to hot or a chamber problem which I doubt because it would happen on most shots. I have a Larry W. die and it's use lies with resized cases mostly after a few sizings.
 
If this is all factory ammo and not a resizing problem, you need to get a good look at your chamber with a borescope and see what's going on. If you don't have a scope, try to have a good Smith check it out. Most likely, you may have a chamber cleaning issue because of the use of Sweets and leaving traces in chamber.
 
Thank you for all your replies, it has been very helpful. I thought I would just add a little more detail on the cleaning procedure I have been following. Since the first break-in regimen I have not shot more than 10 rounds with out cleaning. Here it is:

Always using a bore guide:
20 Strokes with nylon brush using Shooter's Choice;
2-4 dry patches until patches come out clean;
15-20 Strokes with sweet's 7.62 on patch, then let sit for 2-3 minutes;
2-4 dry patches until patches come out clean;
3-4 Patches soaked in break cleaner to chase out Sweets;
2-3 dry patches to dry bore;
Remove bore guide and swab chamber and with chamber swab soaked with break cleaner;
Dry chamber with patches.

The stuck cartridges usually happened towards the end of the group I was shooting, but not always. Sometimes, it was right after cleaning.
 
949, a friend had the same problem with his Remington, but you'd need a borescope to find it. Seems his foreward screw hole for the front scope mount was drilled through into the chamber, then a screw was placed in the hole flush with the chamber. On his rifle the screw was shy of the chamber wall and caused occasional stuck bolt due to brass swelling into the void. His brass had a swell where the screw hole was, but not completely around brass. Since AzShooter suggested a borescoping, just as well check for that also. I never heard how his contact with Remington came out. Just weird not to see barrel threads in the bottom of the scope mount hole. Hope you just have a fouled barrel. Good luck
 
Might even be a combo of things. There have been lots of threads on this forum about issues with Remington Long Range chambers. I think some of them had to do with "tight chambers". The scratches in front of the belt seem excessive to me.

Also different brands of brass have different outside dimensions. I have seen new Hornady brass that has a thinner outside dimension at the web than other brands. Usually have to measure with a micrometer to see it. Seems the Hornady cases were less sticky for you than the Federal cases. May or may not have anything to do with it. Just throwing it out there.

Has to still be under warranty. I would think about calling Remington too.
 
Hey there,

Definetly find some one with a bore scope to check out the chamber....

Had a similar situation with a my cousin's new tikka t3 in 300wsm just the other week, first shot out of it and the brass stuck in the chamber, tapped it out and took a look for excessive pressure signs and everything looked fine, however it had some shiny marks around the case head much like your picture... measured the outer dimensions on the case thinking maybe it was a wonky chamber but all was good... fired another round over the magnettospeed, speed was what we expected but had a stuck case...
Looked with my borescope and found the chamber had a whole bunch of scratches in it, so bad that you'd wonder how it would pass quality control.... looked like the Finn running the reamer was a little cheap with the cutting fluid and got some chips floating around in there chowdering things up..it was obviously bad enough that it wouldn't let go of the brass....
Anyways nothing a power drill, some 600 grit sand paper, a broken graphite arrow shaft, lapping compound, flitz polish paste and 45 minutes couldn't fix... polished the crap outta the chamber and now it cycle like a champ... if that's not something you are comfortable with send it back

Let us know what you figure out...

Orch
 
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