stainless vs nitride treating?

[Elkwonder]

Would you feel more comfortable with a stainless gun out in the elements or a non-stainless that has been black nitride treated? Thanks

 

[Garycrow]

Stainless

 

[WildRose]

I have both. Stainless is not truly "stainless", it takes more abuse and less care than CM steel but you still have to baby it a little bit.

With a nitrided barrel that's not the case.

You can always however do both to maximize protection.

 

[catorres1]

What about vs Cerakote? I have a stainless rifle that I plan to have black cerakoted, would some sort of Nitride process be better?

 

[WildRose]

What about vs Cerakote? I have a stainless rifle that I plan to have black cerakoted, would some sort of Nitride process be better?

Cerakote works well but it's strictly an exterior coating.

The nitride processes actually treat the metal inside and out.

If you do go with the Cerakote, make sure you use someone that knows what they are doing and be patient. In order to get maximum protection it has to be done within a specific temp range and then it really needs to be heat cured for a period and then allowed to continue curing for if I remember right 3-4 weeks.

If you get in a hurry you will quickly wear it off in places and be very disappointed in the end result.

On bolts and other moving parts with lots of contact you are going to show some wear in the cerakoting sooner or later but I don't consider it a bit deal.

Personally I like the cerakote and there's no possibility of it having a negative impact on the accuracy of your rifle. We've had one member here who had some serious issues after nitriding his barrel that he eventually solved with some pretty aggressive lapping but it was a serious pain for him.

I've got several more stainless rifles I'm going to have Cerakoted eventually when I have the time and the extra money. I'll go with probably a sand tone or flat sniper gray though vs black. If I'm going to spend the money I don't want to end up with anything shiny when I'm done.

 

[Canadian Bushman]

When baked properly, cerakote ( H series ) should be fully cured in 5 days.

 

[catorres1]

Cool, I'll probably just stick with Cerakote then. I like the idea of a bore protectant from rust, but from what I can find on the net, it looks like nitriding would be a pain since I am dealing with a whole rifle, not a loose barrel. So the whole thing would have to be stripped down, and then I have to find someone reputable to do it, though it sounds like H&M is the option. When it's done, it would have to be reassembled (springs etc.)....

The rifle is stainless, so hopefully that is sufficient bore protection for whatever I might do.

The guys I am planning to use were recommended to me by my surgeon, who has one of everything and two of most things, and is a very accomplished shooter. Affording the best is not a problem for him. The outfit is trained and certified by Cerakote, so hopefully that means something!

 

[Rick Richard]

Cerakote no matter how expertly applied will wear on those areas that are most contacted such as any part that comes in contact with say a rifle scabored, case, hand on bolt knob and etc.

A few years ago, I had a stainless MZ 'Black Iced' and was very pleased with the finish...no wear. However, as said it has to be stripped down for the process and that can be a pain.

 

[WildRose]

When baked properly, cerakote ( H series ) should be fully cured in 5 days.

I've read that but I've also been told that it's best to let it continue curing for a total of about 21 days before any rough use.

I've seen a couple of disasters where they applied it too cold and didn't cook it at the proper temperature either. What a mess.

 

[WildRose]

Cool, I'll probably just stick with Cerakote then. I like the idea of a bore protectant from rust, but from what I can find on the net, it looks like nitriding would be a pain since I am dealing with a whole rifle, not a loose barrel. So the whole thing would have to be stripped down, and then I have to find someone reputable to do it, though it sounds like H&M is the option. When it's done, it would have to be reassembled (springs etc.)....

The rifle is stainless, so hopefully that is sufficient bore protection for whatever I might do.

The guys I am planning to use were recommended to me by my surgeon, who has one of everything and two of most things, and is a very accomplished shooter. Affording the best is not a problem for him. The outfit is trained and certified by Cerakote, so hopefully that means something!

Stripping it down is no big deal. Any competent gunsmith can do that.

It's really best to do that anyway with both processes so you get to all the nooks and crannies and get the small parts coated properly.

One nice thing about doing the bolt body and raceway is that cerakote is also self lubricating to a great extent thus all but eliminating friction.

You will see some wear on the "wear points" but it's still protecting.

Cerakote on a stainless weapon is a great way to go.

 

[Canadian Bushman]

I've read that but I've also been told that it's best to let it continue curing for a total of about 21 days before any rough use.

I've seen a couple of disasters where they applied it too cold and didn't cook it at the proper temperature either. What a mess.

It very well may, thats just what cerakote told us and what we pass on to customers. I have coated guns and shot them a few days later and no significant wear appeared, but thats not to say the coating is not still getting harder.

I have done that as well, its not fun starting over.


Beretta m9 100 rounds after a 5 day cure.

 

[catorres1]

If I take it to the local place, they'll take care of all of it. If they did Nitriding, maybe I'd do that as well. But it appears if I want to do Nitriding, I'll have have to get another smith to take it apart, then send it somewhere else, how and where I am not sure. Then when it comes back, after the smith re-assmembles it, I have to lap the bore.

All in all, it's a lot of complications and failure points that I am not sure I need to do. Seems like Cerakote over the stainless will be fine. I worry about the bore a bit, but I think I'm probably over thinking it a bit?

Obviously, this is not necessary in Central Texas, I don't know I'll be in too many places where stainless and Cerakote is not enough.

 

[WildRose]

If I take it to the local place, they'll take care of all of it. If they did Nitriding, maybe I'd do that as well. But it appears if I want to do Nitriding, I'll have have to get another smith to take it apart, then send it somewhere else, how and where I am not sure. Then when it comes back, after the smith re-assmembles it, I have to lap the bore.

All in all, it's a lot of complications and failure points that I am not sure I need to do. Seems like Cerakote over the stainless will be fine. I worry about the bore a bit, but I think I'm probably over thinking it a bit?

Obviously, this is not necessary in Central Texas, I don't know I'll be in too many places where stainless and Cerakote is not enough.

Just do what I do, when you're done or heading to the field just run a damp patch with machine gunner's oil through it and it will be well protected.

 

[Canadian Bushman]

If I take it to the local place, they'll take care of all of it. If they did Nitriding, maybe I'd do that as well. But it appears if I want to do Nitriding, I'll have have to get another smith to take it apart, then send it somewhere else, how and where I am not sure. Then when it comes back, after the smith re-assmembles it, I have to lap the bore.

All in all, it's a lot of complications and failure points that I am not sure I need to do. Seems like Cerakote over the stainless will be fine. I worry about the bore a bit, but I think I'm probably over thinking it a bit?

Obviously, this is not necessary in Central Texas, I don't know I'll be in too many places where stainless and Cerakote is not enough.

Some cerakote shops spray the entire crown and even into the bore. Be sure and let them know you are not ok with this and would like it plugged. You may have a slight silver ring around the bore but its better that a bullet running over that stuff. Also be sure and run a patch down it after you get it back, and it will work great for you.