splitting the difference cold/warm barrel question..

victorpolyakov33

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Kind of a long question but I feel the backstorry is important to understand it... My gun is zeroed at 100yrds. When my gun is cold bore/first shot it hits above the bullseye, and then all consecutive shots hit bullseye..(half inch difference from cold bore to warm bore) so I adjusted my zero to split the difference that way my cold bore shot hits top edge of bullseye and all consecutive/ warm bore shots hit bottom edge of bullseye, at 100yrd. This adjustment was 0.50 moa down. Whenever I'm shooting long range to confirm my dope I'm always shooting a "warm barrel" because I'll check my zero first, then I'll shoot 3 shot groups at different ranges (100-700yards). Never shooting a true cold bore at long range. Well my gun is primarily for hunting so the cold bore shot is what really counts.
That's why I think in theory bringing the zero down to split the bullseye would make sense that way at long range the the cold bore shot isn't too high but instead both cold bore and consecutive warm bore shots would be close to where you want to be hitting your target... The question is.. since I've never truly checked my dope with a cold barrel but only warm... by splitting the difference from cold bore and warm bore in theory my dope should stay the same? Bringing my cold bore long range shots just above to where my tested warm bore long range shots were? (yes I know the warm bore shots will now be a bit lower as well, but I'm trying to get best of both worlds in the event I need to take a follow up shot on an animal..)
Shooting a 147gr 6.5 creedmoor hornady eldm
 
You want the cold bore shot at poi and the warm bore shot is 1/2 moa below that your still making a kill shot. If the point of aim hit is on the shoulder of a dear or elk from a cold bore a warm bore hit will just be a 1/2 inch to 1 inch below that there dead get it.
 
Probably a stupid idea. But then my wife says I'm full of them. How about running it through a ballistic calculator. If it makes enough difference and it wouldn't at close range but might at longer ranges. Then carry a card for both cold and warm barrel situations. Of course you would probably have to verify everything. Good luck
 
Go read the LONG thread over on Rokslide forum about cold bore vs hot bore shots and where they group.
Short answer:
Temp doesn't matter and you aren't shooting enough rounds per group (aka under 30 rounds per group) to actually get an idea of your rifles "probability shot come".

If you are basing your rifles' accuracy on 3, 5, or even 10 round groups then you are setting yourself up for problems when you start comparing groups.
 
Go read the LONG thread over on Rokslide forum about cold bore vs hot bore shots and where they group.
Short answer:
Temp doesn't matter and you aren't shooting enough rounds per group (aka under 30 rounds per group) to actually get an idea of your rifles "probability shot come".

If you are basing your rifles' accuracy on 3, 5, or even 10 round groups then you are setting yourself up for problems when you start comparing groups.
Check out the Hornady podcast episode 50 "Your groups are too small". It really brought to light somebody the inconsistencies I've seen shooting and changed the way I set up rifles.
 
Temp doesn't matter and you aren't shooting enough rounds per group (aka under 30 rounds per group) to actually get an idea of your rifles "probability shot come".
Well, I guess that's better than the other way around.
 
I might be a little different in thinking. I have rifles set up for hunting and rifles set up for competition. My hunting rifles are set up for cold bore shot. You might only get one shot and that shot better be on the money. As far as my competition rifles, generally speaking, sometimes you get time to sight in and get get dope. But, by the time you are called for a particular stage, you may have a cold bore. that first shot hopefully is right on or it will be a long stage.
 
I'm definitely not shooting big enough groups, I have never heard of shooting 30 round groups. I reckon a man is never too old to learn
Same here. SD, standard deviation, needs a lot of samples (shots per group) to be useful. That's what I was getting at. I use ES and 3-5 shot groups. Some rifles shoot well enough that 3-5 shot groups are adequate for what I'm doing. I recently shot a .113" 100 yard group with my .20PPC. It was a hot day. A few weeks later, when it was 25° cooler, shooting the same charge and seating depth, the group opened up. Still under .500 MOA but not to my liking.
 
I airways zero for cold fouled barrel.
The shots iI shoot for sight in confirmation at the hunt destination properly foul my barrel for the hunt
Each rifle is different of course.
Some take 3 shots some take more to settle in.
FYI... with all modesty I've made 1 shot kills at 550,680750,1020yds.
So it works for me!
 
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