SCOPE ZERO FOR OVER 1000 YRDS

[Bravo 4]

[QUOTE="LRNut, post: 1946137, member: 3230] Like I said, I zero at 500 on calm days to minimize spin drift. Zeroing at 100 doesn't do that. You want to shoot at 1000? Better have an answer for spin drift, especially if your RF or app doesn't calculate it.[/QUOTE]
You can do this at 100, know plenty of guys that zero 1/4-1/2" left of center and don't worry about spin drift out to some far ranges.

 

[LRNut]

[/QUOTE]
You can do this at 100, know plenty of guys that zero 1/4-1/2" left of center and don't worry about spin drift out to some far ranges.
[/QUOTE]

Not sure what they are shooting, but all my LR guns have about .1 offset at 100 due to spin drift. It really isn't that much at 500, but 1.3 inches at 500 is a lot easier to measure than .1. Here is the spin drift for a 300 Berger at 2950:

 

[Bravo 4]

If you have 1.3" spin drift at 500 then that is 1/4 moa, problem solved. You just proved their point. Serves the same purpose as what you do, just closer. Then just focus on wind.

 

[LRNut]

If you have 1.3" spin drift at 500 then that is 1/4 moa, problem solved. You just proved their point. Serves the same purpose as what you do, just closer. Then just focus on wind.

You are correct; .25 would do it (spin gets exponentially worse with range) and I should have realized that since my normal offset at 200 for zero spin at 500 is .3. But I will stick to 500 yard zeroes...and think twice before disagreeing with you!

 

[Ranger Rick]

I would like to hear at what distance long range shooters are zeroing their scopes at. Additionally mention if and how much elevated rail you have, I currently shoot with a few of my rifles in the 850 to 1250 yrd range with a 300 yd. zero and no elevation rail. Thanks for your input.

It depends as I have four LR rifles and IMO four key factors are:
the bullet and its ballistics/trajectory,
the elevation of the rail @ 0MOA to 40+MOA and beyond with the adjustable rings
the tube diameter - I started shooting in the 70s with a 1" scope, now I'm up to a 35mm tube (elevation), and
the terrain at 1,000 to 1,250 yards; the terrain's elevation net deviation.

In the 70's, I zeroed at 200 yards and knew how high my shot would be at 100 yards so it's easy to sight in at 100yds ~1.5" high. For me today, with a 20 MOA picatinny one-piece rail and a big tube, it's a 100 yard zero & a ballistic rangefinder. And there are 200 or 300 yard zero for some. What are you comfortable with? I grew up with Battle-sight zero & Field & Stream's kill window and now it's MPBR

 

[Canhunter35]

On my 308, I use a 20moa rail then mounted xtr rings and added another 25moa of can't. I have 67 Moa of travel from my 100 yard zero getting me to1550 yds
I've went back to 100yd zeroes, much easier to check in poor conditions. When I got hunting a simple twist will move my zero to mpbr.

 

[imyourhuckleberry]

I zero at 200 with a zero base. No longer shooting long distance . I like 200 because it is basically poa up to 230 yards or less for hunting beyond that it only take a couple of clicks and you're on target. But after more than 50 years of using the same bullet I have memorized my bullet trajectories and drops and don't need a data card with me if I know the distance. I like things simple.

 

[nikonNUT]

My 338 edges is set up at 100 zero , it has a 55 moa Nightforce base and a Valdada 200 min adj.base . They way it's set up I have just about 325 min. Of Elevation to play with .
So far I have only been out to 3027 yards with it .

Rum Man
View attachment 204883

325MOA? Is that all? Weak! I'm just picking on you man! That is actually insane! I can't imagine seeing, let alone hitting, a target at 3000+ yards! Kudos from this wannabe!