Need some advice for scope mounting on a sig cross. After adjusting my length of pull and finding where the scope picture is best, I'm trying to mount my toric 1" x42mm scope with Medium Warne rings. There's the smallest gap where the back of the scope almost touches basically a playing cards size. Should I get high rings or stick with medium?
Scope mounting
- Thread starter Teegank8
- Start date
I'd get taller rings if it were me.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
If it doesn't hit, it fits.
Does the bolt handle clear when running it?
How is the cheek weld when looking through the scope?
Does the bolt handle clear when running it?
How is the cheek weld when looking through the scope?
Cheek weld feels solid, but is on the lowest setting. Bolt clears! Not kidding, it's a playing card distance between the scope and rail.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
You are not going to run your fingers around the clock unless you get 2+" high rings anyway. So if the cheek weld is good and comfortable, you are done. Make sure you check for all shooting positions though. Especially prone. That can make a difference.
LongRangeRookie
Well-Known Member
If your cheek weld is good then I would go as is. As long as you have a card width you should be good.
If you got the rings with the scope, I am sure that the guys at Tract would let you exchange them. They have an outlet page for demo items where they could sell an open package.
They have awesome customer service.
RichCoyle
Well-Known Member
You close your eyes, bring up the rifle and look through it. If you're looking through the scope, your rings are right. If you're looking near the top of the scope, then you can put some taller rings on.
swampbug
Well-Known Member
Ring height is about fit to your cheek weld and the size of your scope bell. For like a 56mm diameter scope bell and say a 20mm cant, it takes taller rings or the front of the scope will hit the barrel. Always check this spot with the lens cap on. Be sure you can open and close the front lens cap and even take it off with out moving the scope.
Then check your cheek weld and adjust the riser, if you have one, for a proper fit and sight thru the scope. Be sure the bolt will run cleanly.
Then check your cheek weld and adjust the riser, if you have one, for a proper fit and sight thru the scope. Be sure the bolt will run cleanly.
Does the Cross have adjustable comb, if so get taller rings. If not, it doesn't touch! Go forth and shoot until you decide its an issue.
coyote wacker
Well-Known Member
As the saying goes "and inch is as good as a mile"....myself if the gun fits and feels good just leave it ! Sure don't want to need to add to the comb to get a good fit.
You could even give the scope base a little work with a file to put a larger gap if you really think you need it....but you don't !
You could even give the scope base a little work with a file to put a larger gap if you really think you need it....but you don't !
What the Boyd's video said in the beginning is absolutely correct = we naturally adapt to length of pull. So, length of pull really is not critical. Close your eyes, raise the rifle to your shoulder, open eyes and adjust the scope to see a full round view. Do this wearing ALL your normal hunting gear.
In your situation, I'd probably lengthen the stock with a butt plate, etc. and then move the scope back. You will naturally move your neck fore or aft to adjust to your scope location. Don't over think it. Length of pull is going to change with the weather and how many layers of clothes you're wearing at the moment.
In your situation, I'd probably lengthen the stock with a butt plate, etc. and then move the scope back. You will naturally move your neck fore or aft to adjust to your scope location. Don't over think it. Length of pull is going to change with the weather and how many layers of clothes you're wearing at the moment.
outdoorguyBP
Well-Known Member
I think I would go up, plenty of movement in that stock to adjust a higher position and you can't go lower if you are all the way down as you say if the need is there. Prone shooting slightly uphill.....
One thing I noticed is the position of your scope, depending on your use of course, but I'd consider moving the scope forward a bit more. I have the scopes on my folders forward enough to make sure the eyepiece has some distance away from the end of the chassis when it is folded. I just want a little space to "hope" that the folder end and/or handgrip make contact before the scope does when I take my pack off hastily or take a slip to my arse. Hard to tell from your pic, maybe the angle is off but it looks real close.
One thing I noticed is the position of your scope, depending on your use of course, but I'd consider moving the scope forward a bit more. I have the scopes on my folders forward enough to make sure the eyepiece has some distance away from the end of the chassis when it is folded. I just want a little space to "hope" that the folder end and/or handgrip make contact before the scope does when I take my pack off hastily or take a slip to my arse. Hard to tell from your pic, maybe the angle is off but it looks real close.
