Scope for a 260ai Deer and Coyote rifle

[unclefish]

In 3 weeks my 260ai will be here, I need to pick out a scope for it.
My Hunting plans for gun is.
Deer hunting white tail but if anything like this year I had more coyotes come through.
So up to 200 yard shots but most will be right around 100 yards.
So I have 2 scopes now.
300 win mag I have Huskemaw 5 to 20 this is my elk rifle. I really like this scope besides the reticle it is very difficult to see in low light conditions. But the parralux is perfect for eye dead on what it says to yardage. also the turret tracks perfect to yardage and returns to my zero every time.
current deer rifle is Tikka 308 with leupold vx6 3 to 18 I like the reticle cause it is illuminated. But I have a very difficult time getting the parralux to my eye compared to what it says for yardage on turret.
Not getting any younger and eyes are getting old . I use to like the real thin style cross hairs now the illuminated ones that I can see is a must.
almost thinking 2.5 x XX so I can get the FOV
1 person did mention the 2.5 to 10 by56 schmidt bender klassic illuminated for the best low light and very wide FOV.
Just having a hard time convincing myself to spend 2500 on a scope for whitetail and coyote rifle.
also I never even looked through 1st focal plane scope.
But I also don't want to be a cheap @ss and not be able to see in low light conditions. so if I need cough up some extra bucks for a good scope I will. I do here people say they can't get used to a 1st focal plain scope after shooting a second for a long time.
It was easier picking out pieces for gun build than it is to pick out 1 scope. I am racking my brain and probably reading way to many post.

 

[Adikted]

Ziess victory ht, the illuminated reticle goes down to the perfect intensity for low light hunting, I find most are too bright to my liking even at the lowest setting

https://www.opticsplanet.com/zeiss-...p1Qj9UtB7JyLeuMfe6AiVWZUCwcdwjIYaAtgHEALw_wcB

 

[unclefish]

zeiss is the only scope I had to bring back cause of problems with adjusting power with rapid z reticle. Even the technician at zeiss told me once you have you hold overs you can not adjust power. up or down. I thought this was insane. I have to say the glass was very good. But I had 3 of us at range shoot at 100 yards then 200 yards then adjust power and see what happens. I even had to have the manager at cabelas call them direct and after he hung up from them he said bring it back . walked out my truck handed him the gun and I bought the leupold vx6 the same day. they gave me a full refund,.

 

[Adikted]

zeiss is the only scope I had to bring back cause of problems with adjusting power with rapid z reticle. Even the technician at zeiss told me once you have you hold overs you can not adjust power. up or down. I thought this was insane. I have to say the glass was very good. But I had 3 of us at range shoot at 100 yards then 200 yards then adjust power and see what happens. I even had to have the manager at cabelas call them direct and after he hung up from them he said bring it back . walked out my truck handed him the gun and I bought the leupold vx6 the same day. they gave me a full refund,.

Any scope with a second focal plane reticle and subtensions is going to have that issue, why would you need hold overs at 200 yards? Every viable deer caliber can be zeroed at 200 yards with a maximum height of bullet flight within 2" of sight line

Edit: except for the 45-70

 

[unclefish]

Original had it on my 300 win mag for out west. Then I bought the huskemaw for the 300wm and switched the leupold to my 308. So would a first focal plane have that issue also.

 

[Adikted]

In a first or front focal plane scope the reticle changes apparent size with the image as you change Magnification. So the MOA or MRAD measurement of the subtensions is accurate at any magnification.

In a second or rear focal plane scope the reticle stays the same apparent size while the image gets larger and smaller so the MOA from the center of the reticle to the subtension is larger at a lower magnification than at a higher magnification so the subtensions can only be correct at a single setting, usually the highest.

The best way to correct for bullet drop is to buy a scope with an elevation turret that is high enough quality to be repeatable and then turn the turret so you can aim with the cross hairs.

Also you should zero your rifle at a distance that takes advantage of its maximum point blank range ( usually between 225 and 300 yards depending on the cartridge and load) this will help to keep you from having to worry about bullet drop in situations where you need to shoot quickly.

 

[unclefish]

Thank you, I set my 300 wm up for a 300 yard zero knowing I am 2.8 inches high at 100yard. Never know if I will be in thick or watching the side of the mountain. when we go out west. that way I really don't need to mess with scope till after 400 yard shot In the heat of the moment. Last 3 elk I got where on trail crossing around 250 to 300 yard shot. It happens quick . The first one up usually looks lh and then rh down the trail then gone back into thick. I would really like to put a illuminated scope on that gun also. I really like the huskmaw just getting hard to see the reticle in the low light conditions. I will go back and look at zeiss victory cause I did like the glass. thank you

 

[Adikted]

Depends on where you are. In SC our legal shooting hours are from 1 hour before sunrise to 1 hour after sunset. Very few scopes will let you shoot those hours without moonlight, since I seldom shoot whitetail beyond 300 yards brightness comes second only to ability to keep zero on my whitetail rifle.

On my 300 mag that I use out west I totally agree with you.

 

[the hunter]

In 3 weeks my 260ai will be here, I need to pick out a scope for it.
My Hunting plans for gun is.
Deer hunting white tail but if anything like this year I had more coyotes come through.
So up to 200 yard shots but most will be right around 100 yards.
So I have 2 scopes now.
300 win mag I have Huskemaw 5 to 20 this is my elk rifle. I really like this scope besides the reticle it is very difficult to see in low light conditions. But the parralux is perfect for eye dead on what it says to yardage. also the turret tracks perfect to yardage and returns to my zero every time.
current deer rifle is Tikka 308 with leupold vx6 3 to 18 I like the reticle cause it is illuminated. But I have a very difficult time getting the parralux to my eye compared to what it says for yardage on turret.
Not getting any younger and eyes are getting old . I use to like the real thin style cross hairs now the illuminated ones that I can see is a must.
almost thinking 2.5 x XX so I can get the FOV
1 person did mention the 2.5 to 10 by56 schmidt bender klassic illuminated for the best low light and very wide FOV.
Just having a hard time convincing myself to spend 2500 on a scope for whitetail and coyote rifle.
also I never even looked through 1st focal plane scope.
But I also don't want to be a cheap @ss and not be able to see in low light conditions. so if I need cough up some extra bucks for a good scope I will. I do here people say they can't get used to a 1st focal plain scope after shooting a second for a long time.
It was easier picking out pieces for gun build than it is to pick out 1 scope. I am racking my brain and probably reading way to many post.

I found the vortex razor hd lh 3-15x42 g4 bdc on amazon.com for just $680

 

[RevJim]

For the conditions you mentioned, heck don't spend over $400 for one, get the power you like. Many choices. 'Myself" I like 1.5x5, 2.5x8 Leupolds. I have a nice Nikon Monarch 4x12AO, a Burris Timberline 4.5x12 ( very compact for its power too) a wad of Bushnell 3200s,,,Weaver is fine too. Again, for the conditions you mentioned...

 

[Capt RB]

4-14x56 shv with the illuminated IHR reticle The 2.5-10 shv would be the other choice with the same reticle.
http://nightforceoptics.com/pdf/NFO_IHRsheet_2013.pdf

 

[zr600]

Have you looked at the vx5hd with the firedot? That would be a good fit for you I think. Could do a 2-10 or 3-15.

 

[Kimber7man]

I'll vote for the S&B Klassik in fixed 6x42 with #4 reticle. Can handle anything from 20 yards to 400.

If you don't want to spend that much, a fixed Leupold FX3 in 6x42 would be cheaper and lighter.

 

[lancetkenyon]

In no particular order...

FFP:
S&B PMII 3-20×50
S&B PMII 3-20×50 US
S&B PMII 4-16×50
S&B PMII 4-16×56 UB
S&B PMII 3-12×50
Tangent Theta TT315M 3-15×50
Tangent Theta TT315P 3-15×50
Kahles K318i 3-18×50
Kahles K312i 3-12×50
March F1 3-24×52
Used Premier Heritage Light Tactical 3-15×50
Minox ZP5 3-15×50
SWFA SS HD 3-15×42

SFP:
March 2.5-25×52
Swarovski X5/X5i 3.5-18×50
Zeiss Conquest V6 3-18×50
Zeiss V4 4-16×50