Savage 12 F-Class Rebarrel

[backwoods83]

Savage did factory chamber the 7mm and 300 RUM for a couple years on the 110, 111, 114, and 116 actions, they weren't good sellers at that time so they were discontinued. The lugs and receiver of a savage are just as strong as a rem 700 and they chamber them and build customs off of them. With the right powder you shouldn't exceed 62,500 psi to accomplish what you want.

 

[load]

Wth the main difference between 338LM vs 338Edge being the boltface in terms of not having to machine anything...

Here's what I think needs to be done...

start with a Savage 12 F-Class Rifle
purchase barrel wrench and barrel vise (possibly wood blocks)

Do I need a special wrench to hold the reciever to avoid twisting it?

Shilen 30", 1:10 twist, throat +.050, stainless heavy barrel, threadded for a brake
(Shilen - because they are just down the road a piece.)

Savage standard magnum replacement bolt head

Remington 300 RUM brass
CCI 250 primers
H1000 powder
Berger 300gr Hybrid Bullets or Sierra 300gr SMK

What do I use for go/no-go guages? Can these be ordered for 338 Edge?

What do I use for dies? Can these be ordered for 338 Edge?

I still want to do some verification to be sure this is safe. But, it sure sounds doable.

So after a 500+ rounds, will I be able to revert back to 6mm BR and still shoot accurately? Or, is it going to hammer the reciever lug abutments?

Thanks!
Richard

if you use a vise on the barrel you don't need one on the action if you use one on the action make sure it was designed for it so as not to twist the action. the cut stock works well for this.

 

[Birddog75]

A go/no go gauge for a 300 rum will work, and I would go with a 28" barrel to keep the harmonics down. And max pressure is max pressure no matter the cartridge so it will not hurt the receiver.

I'm ordering a new barrel for my build. Might be a dumb question, but why would a 28" barrel shoot better than the 30" in the 338-300 ultra?

 

[rscott5028]

I'm ordering a new barrel for my build. Might be a dumb question, but why would a 28" barrel shoot better than the 30" in the 338-300 ultra?

Actually Birddog,

That's a great question and I'm keen to hear opinions as relate to the 338 Edge as well.

The Edge article I read talked about a 30" barrel. So, was that just to hype up velocity numbers? If 28" is stiffer/more accurate, then why not 26"?

Thanks in advance!
Richard

 

[backwoods83]

You answered your own question, more rigid with a 28" but not the loss of velocity of a 26" its the happy medium!

 

[liltank]

Actually Birddog,

That's a great question and I'm keen to hear opinions as relate to the 338 Edge as well.

The Edge article I read talked about a 30" barrel. So, was that just to hype up velocity numbers? If 28" is stiffer/more accurate, then why not 26"?

Thanks in advance!
Richard

There's a happy number that different calibers enjoy in barrel length. Generally the bigger the cartridge, the longer barrel can add to performance. However there is a level of diminishing returns. If you stuff a 30" tube on 17Rem Fireball, you will more than likely see a lower velocity than say a 24" tube. There just isn't enough volume of powder to continue a constant burn efficiently enough to gain any added velocity.

The bigger casings such as the 338 Lapua, Allen Magnums, and RUM's, all are designed to hold a large volume of slow burning powder that will produce higher velocities to a point. Dan Lilja did a nice article on his sight about this very subject. The 338 Edge and Lapua are ballistic twins. Both however require a minimum of a 26" barrel to really take advantage of the powder volume each uses. 28" seems to be the optimal length, but then again 30" wouldn't hurt it either. A matter of rigidity isn't really the concern IMO, on the length. It is more of a weight issue, along with being to long to lug around in the brush should that situation present itself.

But when you look at the 338 Norma Magnum, it is designed to shoot from a shorter barrel. It will perform equally well if not better with a 23.5" (suggested by author of the article on this sight) than the longer case 338 magnums. He suggests that 23.5 to 26" is the optimal lengths for that caliber. Any longer than 26" and you are not gaining anything. The longer case magnums need the extra length to use the powder up. Check the article out on Lilja under the article section. Good info there.

Tank

 

[rscott5028]

Good stuff. Thansk guys!

 

[Moosetracker]

rscott5028

I worked on a project very similar to what you describe. My project started with a used Savage F/TR, to which I added many custom components, including a stock which I finished myself. Here's what it looks like:

Savage target action(from the original F/TR)
Base Near Mfg. 12 MOA
Alphamount Near Mfg
Telescope S&B 5-25x56mm PMII P4LF
Stock SSS LV/T, ajustable cheek piece, front rail for bipod, bedded with Devcon 10110, Hiviz Xcoil pad, epoxy/Tru-oil finish
Barrel 338 Edge Brux 30", 1/9.5 twist, Near Mfg muzzlebreak.
Barrel Savage 308 Win original 30", 1/12 twist
Barrel 6mmBr Norma Brux 30", 1/8" twist

The original Savage 308 barrel is good for .5 MOA to 500 yds. The Brux 338 Edge averages .4 MOA to 400 yds with 250grs Nosler Accubonds - I have not tested it at longer distances. Also, I have yet to try the Brux barrel in 6mmBr Norma.

 

[liltank]

rscott5028
Nice rifle and set up. What is your .308 load out of curiosity?

Tank

 

[Moosetracker]

Nosler 155grs
47.0 gr Varget
CCI BR2
Lapua case
.010" jump

 

[liltank]

Nosler 155grs
47.0 gr Varget
CCI BR2
Lapua case
.010" jump

Thanks, how far you shooting that?

Tank

 

[Moosetracker]

So far 500 yds only.

 

[rscott5028]

Very impressive Moosetracker.
I'm sold.
Thanks!