Rifle cleaning with muzzle brake

[Chuckrub]

Having seen this on many post I just have to ask what it means..justme gbot tum...Also sorry for interruption.

I think it means God Bless Our Troops Thank U much.

 

[DSheetz]

Barbinc brake clean is a CRC product that is an aerosol solvent , it is not plastic friendly for the most part . You don't want to use it around welding or open flames , it's not flammable but the contents turn to phosegene gas a nerve gas when heated to high temps. . Some of these solvents contain chlorides that not only aren't good for you or pets but will penetrate into the metals grains and create carbide crystals around the grain boundaries madking the metal brittle

 

[jimirwin]

Seems the right thing to do. Just remember that cleaning the crown may not have to be something done mechanically and may very well result in muzzle damage affecting accuracy. Engine carbon removers may well do the job chemically. Look for n methyl pyrrolidone as a major ingredient.

 

[J E Custom]

For what it's worth...the gun range next door had a Thompson semi-auto that was their most popular rental gun. Trouble was it kept shooting off the muzzle brake. It was held in place by one roll pin that would be sheared off. I enlarged the pin hole so a fatter pin could be used. Finally I noticed what appeared to be some contact with brake muzzle bore. Measured it and darn tootin' it was under bullet diameter. Fouling had built up until the bullet was being swaged thru at every shot until the roll pin failed! So I bored out the fouling and just a few thousandths of metal. No further trouble!

I don't expect this would be true for higher intensity rounds, but it's something I suggest looking for whenever possible.

I have encountered this many times. (Muzzle brake bore to small) and was making contact with the bullet. This is a very bad for accuracy and the brake it's self.
This is one of those times that you want the correct size threads for strength to prevent damage to the rifle or a bystander.

I recently had a brake that the bore was undersized after shooting gas check bullets.
The gas checks came loose and lodged in the brake bore and the next round went through it, leaving a copper ring in the brake baffle. And in the process, that round left the ring in the second baffle. When this whole process finished all of the ports ended up with a copper ring in every baffle the bore of the brake. after the brake was removed, the barrel and crown was undamaged and the threads had done there job and didn't need re done.

The brake was however done and had to be replaced. wanting to know more, I machined the copper out of the first baffle until it was all gone using a strong solvent and it had bonded/welded to the baffle and ended up almost .030 larger than the bullet diameter, so it appeared that the brake had been correctly bored .020 over.

I have never seen carbon build up this bad, but normally proper cleaning will prevent this. and if the brake has/needs to be removed to make sure it is clean, it is ok to do so.

PS: Sorry about the triple post. (New computer) and was unable to delete.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Buzzsaw]

OK, here is a secret for all us Carbon haters. CLP, put on Q-Tip, rub on carbon areas, set for a minute or two. wipe or brush off with toothbrush. BOOM, clean.

AS WITH any chemical, neutralize the CLP with rubbing alcohol, dry completely, the re-lube completely. Use anti seize choke tube lube.

 

[338 dude]

Having seen this on many post I just have to ask what it means..justme gbot tum...Also sorry for interruption.

Robot?

 

[hunterdan]

On my side port muzzle brakes I am able to clean all the carbon from the brake and crown without removing the brake. I never remove the brakes. Boretech carbon remover and lots of Qtips eventually gets it done. I do have a Vias style brake that the only way to clean it is remove it.

 

[freddiej]

I have many guns with brakes, I use Bore Tech's C4 Carbon remover on them after every shooting session or after hunts. the muzzle I use an acid brush with bore tech C-4 on it to keep the muzzle clean. I do not remove the breaks, at least I have never needed to. all my brakes are indexed and purple loc-tited to keep them from unscrewing. the only rifle I have not C-4'ed the muzzle yet is a 300 RUM I have in for sale that I can not seem to sell. so I am going to try the C-4 on it and see how long it takes to get the muzzle clean. the brake took me 3 hours to clean without the aide of a SS brush.
best advice I can give is to de-carbon every time with C-4 carbon remover and a nylon brush. no need to remove the break.

 

[BKM]

I don't understand why u would not remove the brake. If they're timed correctly it doesn't matter. If they're radial, it still doesn't matter. I use C4.
Put it in a pill bottle for my radial brakes. Had to get a bigger container for my tactical brakes. Fill the container, drop the brake in, let it soak overnight.
When u take it out, run hot water over it , rinse, dry and it will look like it did when it was new. I also do my breech plugs for my Smokeless Muzzleloaders this way.
Keep the lid on the containers and use the same solution several times.
Give it a try.