Remove factory coating from bolt

Anodizing is a coating used on aluminum only. Must be something else
Ok, some kind of cerakote then.
It's usually on their lower end stuff like the sps.
Looks the same as my sps bolt did.
The coating on the barrel is the same.
 
It's bluing and takes literally 2 minutes to fix your bolt. Leave 1 inch in the back and 1/2 in the front alone and just sand the body. If you send it to me with return shipping I'll do it for you for free.
Shep
 
It's bluing and takes literally 2 minutes to fix your bolt. Leave 1 inch in the back and 1/2 in the front alone and just sand the body. If you send it to me with return shipping I'll do it for you for free.
Shep
I have a can of metal polish I was thinking on trying. I used I years ago to polish a trigger and it worked quite well. So I'll just give it a go. Thanks for the offer though. What should I do to protect the bolt from rust?
 
Just take it to a local gunsmith. Polish might get the bluing off but the metal under the bluing is going to look pitted. It takes sanding to get it smooth. Super easy on a lathe. If you are hell bent on doing it yourself get some 1 inch strips of 320 grit and do the shoe shine method. Only do what's visible in the ejection ports. You need to leave the rest of the body full diameter. Any light oil will keep the rust off.
Shep
 
Took some fine grit sandpaper to it and it worked great. Bolt runs smooth as glass. Thanks for the tip Shep
 

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If the original photo is blown up, There is a strange line running down the bolt. Looks like the robot left the bolt in the sand blaster or bead blaster, And beat it up instead of just blasting it to an even finish. That strange silvery spot on the bolt shroud looks like the coating came off to the bear metal, Or something was on the metal and the bluing or coating did not take.

It looks like it is not bluing, Because it covered the silver solder where the bolt handle attaches to the body. The solder line is visible on most blued bolts of Remington 700's.
 
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