Reloading with New Brass

One Hole

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I am getting back in re-loading and would really appreciate suggestions from experienced re-loaders. I would like the most accurate hunting rounds possible without the risk of stuck cases or having to neck turn or neck size. I have selected the following components for my first batch based on a lot of input on here, other sites and books: New Norma brass, 180 gn Accubonds, H4350 and Fed. 215Ms. These will be used primarily for deer, elk and black bear from 100 - 500 yards. I will number my questions so if you want to just reply to certain ones please refer to the number.

1. Should I run the new Norma cases thru my Full Length Redding sizing dies?
2. Should I trim the cases to SAMMI min length?
3. Should I debur flash holes (even though Norma says they are drilled and don't need it)
4. Should I "uniform" primer pockets?
5. Should I check body and neck concentricity prior to charging and seating?

Suggestions and any other input are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Bob
 
Fire form the brass first in the rifle it will be used for, then follow your procedure. I find more attention to neck tension is more important than anything else for me. Low ES and SD, which is a result of correct load and projectile seating will provide best consistency in accuracy.
 
1) yes , I do . new brass is small so you will only be rounding out the necks and maybe pushing down a high spot , you'll be sure it will fit the rifle .
2) I would not trim until it's fired a couple of times . unless the new brass is longer than max length , then I would only trim to max case length . I doubt this will happen.
3) you can look inside for a burr , I've never seen any in my Norma brass .
4) I don't on Norma brass , I've never seen a problem
5) no , new unfired brass will not show anything meaningful

the Norma brass I've used has been top shelf stuff . you'll be happy with it .
 
I've used Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, Winchester, Federal, and Remington. I honestly think they all work just fine, though I spend much less prep time with Lapua and Norma and no prep time at all with Nosler (made by Federal). The longest case life I've seen (so far) was with the Norma, but since I haven't used all of the makers' cases equally, I can't say that with certainty. From now on, based on what I have seen, I'll probably stick with just Norma and Lapua. I didn't get the greatest case life out of the Nosler cases, but that's likely more my fault than that of the brass itself. I used the Nosler hard and with pretty hot loads, and finally started getting a lot of split necks, but I got that with Hornady too.

That said, if you don't shoot an extreme amount of reloads, you hate prep work, and you want easy to use and extremely good cases, buy the Nosler. It's alre
 
I am getting back in re-loading and would really appreciate suggestions from experienced re-loaders. I would like the most accurate hunting rounds possible without the risk of stuck cases or having to neck turn or neck size. I have selected the following components for my first batch based on a lot of input on here, other sites and books: New Norma brass, 180 gn Accubonds, H4350 and Fed. 215Ms. These will be used primarily for deer, elk and black bear from 100 - 500 yards. I will number my questions so if you want to just reply to certain ones please refer to the number.

1. Should I run the new Norma cases thru my Full Length Redding sizing dies?
2. Should I trim the cases to SAMMI min length?
3. Should I debur flash holes (even though Norma says they are drilled and don't need it)
4. Should I "uniform" primer pockets?
5. Should I check body and neck concentricity prior to charging and seating?

Suggestions and any other input are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Bob
I would necksize the new cases, and check the length. After fire forming then full length Redding sizing die. My best cases have been the old Winchester and Remington. The newer brass has not been as good. I have had good luck with Nosler cases. Federal and Hornady cases I have had cases that are short in length. Federal cases do not last as long after a few reloading.
 
they can shrink on the first firing , when they expand into the corners of the shoulders ...

if they fit new , shoot em , then trim to make the whole batch equal to the length of the shortest case ( unless of coarse your shortest case is too long )
 
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Thank you for the input!

Rick - are you saying fireform and then full length size?
Yep. Load her up as you would for reloading, shoot and then resize according to your rifles chamber minus the .002 for bumping the shoulder back. At least, that is what I do with new brass and find it to work for me.
 
I've used Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, Winchester, Federal, and Remington. I honestly think they all work just fine, though I spend much less prep time with Lapua and Norma and no prep time at all with Nosler (made by Federal). The longest case life I've seen (so far) was with the Norma, but since I haven't used all of the makers' cases equally, I can't say that with certainty. From now on, based on what I have seen, I'll probably stick with just Norma and Lapua. I didn't get the greatest case life out of the Nosler cases, but that's likely more my fault than that of the brass itself. I used the Nosler hard and with pretty hot loads, and finally started getting a lot of split necks, but I got that with Hornady too.

That said, if you don't shoot an extreme amount of reloads, you hate prep work, and you want easy to use and extremely good cases, buy the Nosler. It's alre

I thought Norma made Nosler brass.
 
I've found that with a current batch of 200 Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor brass I've had to run them through an expander die.....21st Century's titanium nitride.
 
I heard that a few years ago too .

in the last year or two , Nosler bought silver state armory for their brass . I've had some primer pocket issues with nosler brass , I don't think I'll be buying any more .

Well, that's disappointing. Thanks for the info.
 
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