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Reloading new brass?

OK, I'm gonna question all you "resizers". Have you ever seen reputable virgin brass be oversized? I've not. So what does resizing virgin brass do aside from working the neck brass once before its ever been fired?

I tend to
1) Look at the flash holes. Put them all in a block and shine a light from various angles. If you see disparity, you will have handy reference brass. But honestly, the quality brass tends to never need work. But a quick check is sensible.

2) I've tried deburring flash holes, even ones that looked fine.. Seems not to have changed accuracy in brass that is looking all uniform to start with, but I tend to spend money on quality brass. If you must deburr the flash holes, remember that you need to trim the cases first, AND, first firing will affect case length variably as the case grows to match your chamber. Last thing you want to do is take uniform factory flash holes and make them variable with your deburring tool.

3) Double check case length on 5-10 rounds. Its always short but better safe.

4) Deburr and chamfer the necks, before mandrel. But if they are obviously dinged then I mandrel them first (and again later.) I keep the mandrel in a press while prepping and pop any case that's deburring unevenly into the press to get straightened out.

5) Run a mandrel through the necks. Using graphite neck lube. Nice because no cleanup needed. I like to mandrel at the end, as I feel it "cleans up" the debur just a tad before seating the bullets.

Then you load and run. But bear in mind that the first firing can often be wierd. And no amount of resizing will ENLARGE a case that is small to start with . You gonna have to blow it out to your guns chamber.

All you who say to re-size. Elaborate what I am doing wrong and why?
 
OK, I'm gonna question all you "resizers". Have you ever seen reputable virgin brass be oversized? I've not. So what does resizing virgin brass do aside from working the neck brass once before its ever been fired?

I tend to
1) Look at the flash holes. Put them all in a block and shine a light from various angles. If you see disparity, you will have handy reference brass. But honestly, the quality brass tends to never need work. But a quick check is sensible.

2) I've tried deburring flash holes, even ones that looked fine.. Seems not to have changed accuracy in brass that is looking all uniform to start with, but I tend to spend money on quality brass. If you must deburr the flash holes, remember that you need to trim the cases first, AND, first firing will affect case length variably as the case grows to match your chamber. Last thing you want to do is take uniform factory flash holes and make them variable with your deburring tool.

3) Double check case length on 5-10 rounds. Its always short but better safe.

4) Deburr and chamfer the necks, before mandrel. But if they are obviously dinged then I mandrel them first (and again later.) I keep the mandrel in a press while prepping and pop any case that's deburring unevenly into the press to get straightened out.

5) Run a mandrel through the necks. Using graphite neck lube. Nice because no cleanup needed. I like to mandrel at the end, as I feel it "cleans up" the debur just a tad before seating the bullets.

Then you load and run. But bear in mind that the first firing can often be wierd. And no amount of resizing will ENLARGE a case that is small to start with . You gonna have to blow it out to your guns chamber.

All you who say to re-size. Elaborate what I am doing wrong and why?
I bought 500 brand new brass once and had always just loaded it up and things were great until one day it wasn't, I loaded up 200 of the 500 new brass and not one of them would chamber correctly, dropped them in a case gauge and sure enough they didn't fit correctly, ended up resizing every one.
 

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