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Redding S type bushing die runout and solution

NW Hunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
734
Location
Vancouver, WA
I have been dumbfounded for awhile about a runout problem with my Redding S type bushing full length sizing die.
I use a Forested Coax press.
I tried several different styles of lock rings.
I made sure to square up the die with the press before tightening the lock ring.
No matter what, I would get .004" runout on the neck.
No runout would be added to the shoulder however.
I never use the decapping rod. I would unscrew it and use the knurled spacer that the decapping rod threads into on top of the bushing.
My gunsmith said it was probably a bad die.
This got me thinking.
I had the idea to replace the knurled spacer with an extra bushing I had.
I'll be a monkey's uncle!
Runout is now less than a thousandth.

Must have been bad tolerances on the decapping rod retainer spacer. Not sure if that's what it's called, but it was the problem.
Everyone gets lucky once in awhile!
 
1. At the Whidden custom die website they tell you that they get the most concentric ammunition from non-bushing full length dies.

2. German Salazar at the "Riflemans Journal" website did a bushing die test and when you reduce the neck diameter .004 or more it will induce neck runout. He goes on to state this is why it is recommended to reduce the neck diameter in 2 steps if reducing the neck diameter .004 or more.

Bottom line, there is enough clearance in the die body to allow the bushing to move side to side or even tilt. Meaning bushing dies work best with tight neck chambers and neck turned brass. And most standard SAAMI chambers allow the case neck to expand more than .004.

I get the least amount of case neck runout with Forster benchrest full length dies with their high mounted floating expander. And get the most case neck runout with a Forster bush bump die.

I do not blame the bushing dies, but the bushing floats and the stress of excessively reducing neck diameter lets the bushing move. Add this to a unturned case neck with excessive case neck thickness variations and you get even more neck runout.


Steps to Minimize Bullet Run-Out


Tech Line & Tips (FAQs)

Concentricity & Bushing Dies

From tests we have conducted, we have learned that selecting the correct bushing is the most important factor in producing sized case necks that have good concentricity with the case body. Our tests showed that case neck concentricity is directly proportional to bushing size. In other words, as you size case necks with progressively smaller bushings, the concentricity gets progressively worse. Our current recommendation, is to select a bushing that is .001 to .002" smaller than the loaded cartridge neck diameter. For example, if the neck diameter of your loaded cartridges is .248", start with a .247 or .246" bushing. We've had to change our initial recommendation, because some of cartridge cases manufactured today have neck walls near the minimum SAAMI thickness. When using brass which is at the thinner end of the SAAMI spec. we have found the bushing which is .001" smaller will provide the best result.
To create precision reloads, you must start with cases of good quality. They should all be from the same manufacturer and lot number. A good measure of case quality is how uniform the neck wall thickness is. Cases with uniform neck wall thickness, will be of uniform thickness all the way to the base. This is important for accuracy, as the cases will expand uniformly upon firing, and contract uniformly when sized. Neck turning helps, but it's only a partial cure, as you can't turn the case wall all the way to the base. The Redding Case Neck Gauge is the preferred instrument for checking neck wall thickness and uniformity. Also note that the concentricity of a fired case only indicates how concentric your firearm's chamber is. It provides you with little or no information on the quality of the cases you're using.
Other factors that can improve concentricity:

  • Lube case necks, even with TiN coated bushings.
  • Partial size case necks. Sizing 1/2 or 3/4 of the neck seems to be the most popular.
  • Try flipping the bushing over. We like to install them with the letters down to start with.
  • Trim cases mouths square so they will enter the bushing straight. Don't forget to chamfer the case mouth, inside and out. This is very important as it eases the entry of the case mouth into the bushing, and the bullet into the case mouth.
  • Anneal case necks. Cases that have been fired many times work harden and this causes excessive spring-back of the case necks.


Advanced Reloading — Checking the Geometry of Neck Bushings

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...ading-checking-the-geometry-of-neck-bushings/
 
Floating, yes.
Numbers, up.

The numbers are stamped on the bushing and have uneven raised edges. And when the number are placed in the up position the bushing can tilt and induce neck runout. Redding tells you to put the numbers facing "down" . When the case is sized the bushing is pushed upward until it contacts the stop on the spindle assembly. Meaning you want these two "FLAT" surfaces to contact each other.

sinclairconcen3.jpg


When the bushing numbers are face up they can cause the bushing to tilt and induce neck runout.

Redding_2.jpg
 
I have the same coax/redding setup for my 20 practical.

One thing you didnt mention is that the knurled spacer has uneven sides...did you notice this when you took it off the decap rod? one side is flatter and thats the side that goes against the bushing. maybe you had the partially knurled side down and when you put in two bushings that fixed the prob.??

I bet putting on the spacer upside down was your prob.

You mentioned squaring up the die??? huh? You should use forester alum rings and let em float!

The numbers should be down on the redding bushings so the top of bushing and bottom of the knurled spacer have a flat to flat mating surface. the bottom of the bushing moves up in the sizing process so no inteference if a stamped number has an extrusion.

Also with me at least...with new lc brass I use has excessive neck runout and the bushing die or a reg f/l die wont fix it (prob because of springback?). Once I fireform the cases then the case is aligned neck to body and all good after that. I just loaded up some 4x fired cases last night. neck od is .233 when fired and then i squeeze down to .255 which is a .022 jump.my loaded rounds pretty much all come out with a .0015 max runout measured at the bullet ogive. Most are under or at a thou.I size my necks close to the shoulder. I havent experimented but can see that backing off some would probably help reduce runout

Using an expander ball can cause neck runout for obvious reasons. I never use one and dont see the need. I fix dented neck mouths with an arbor die.

Also heres a couple of other tips I learned about the co-ax and consistent runout/head spacing:

Make sure that spring loaded ball bearing in the die ring channel is adjusted just enough to give just a slight bit of pressure on the die ring - my hex screw is half backed out from flush. If you push up on the ball bearing it should have little down pressure or can reduce the floating self alignment action.

Make sure you inspect/clean inside shoulder wall of your die where lube can build up and throw the neck sizing out of wack as there is a little side play in the bushing

Make sure there is no junk - powder grains from spills etc - on the normally hidden part of the floor plate under the retractable jaws. And also check/compare the spring pressure on each jaw. Its a good idea to pop off the plate every now and then and disassemble/clean and then make sure both springs are seated correctly on reassembly. I have one side of my jaws that tend to not want to align the spring properly on assembly and can put 2x pressure on opening/closing on that side. When reinstalling the complete jaw plate it can be oriented so the springs can be placed on the expander cone side or the opposite side. I have found that it works much better to have the springs on the expander cone side.

Some think the jaws actually hold and index the case on the extractor groove. nope. The case head sits and indexes off the base plate below the jaws thus the need to make sure its clean.

Hope any of this helps.
 
Redding puts a expander in their bushing dies for the people who do not turn their case necks.
What sense does it make to push the neck irregularities and uneven neck wall thicknesses to the inside of the case neck.

With a Forster full length benchrest die with its high mounted floating expander I get .001 or less case neck runout.

A expander is not the end of the world and Whidden custom dies sells expander kits with five expanders from bullet diameter to .004 under bullet diameter.

Whidden also tells you they get the most concentric cases with non-bushing full length dies. And what many people fail to realize is the bushing dies work best with tight neck chambers with neck turned brass.

On top of this if you reduce the neck diameter .004 or more with a bushing die you will induce neck runout. And this is why it is recommended if reducing the neck diameter .004 or more to do it in 2 sizing steps.

Below is one of my Redding dies equipped with a Forster high mounted floating expander and spindle assembly. This setup greatly reduces neck runout and I'm not dragging a much longer Redding expander through the case neck.

kWbieba.jpg


I bought seven different make and type .223 dies to test runout. I get the least neck runout with a Forster full length benchrest non-bushing die and the most neck runout with bushing dies. This is because with a standard SAAMI chamber the case neck expands more than .004 and the floating bushing can move from side to side and even tilt when sizing the case neck.

FL Bushing Dies vs. Honed FL Dies
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/fl-bushing-dies-vs-honed-fl-dies/

Bottom line, too much of what benchrest shooters do filters down to the average shooter and it is not needed. And how did we get by all those years before bushing dies, neck turning and still hit what we were aiming at.
 
Thanks to everyone!
I had the ball bearing adjustment way too Tight!
The 292 bushing now gives .0005" to .001" of runout.
The 291 bushing gives about .002" of runout.
Loaded necks are .293".
Fired necks are .296, so I see it would help to size down in stages.

You guys are greatly appreciated for the Help!

Thank you,
Randy
 
The ole ball bearing problem hah! You know Forester dosent even mention anything about the ball bearing tension in their current manual!

You should be able to get it down to a max of .001 runout or more like .0005 at the neck and about a thou at the ogive. Are you still using that double bushing method? If so try using only one - numbers down - and the knurled spacer with the proper side facing the bushing.

I am not too sure on using double bushings and esp if the top one has engraving with some raised area.

Are you using forester die rings ???

Are you hearing any neck squeaks on the downstroke?
 
I switched back to one bushing and the original spindle assembly.
I am using Forster die rings. I read in the instructions not to tighten the die rings too tight. There I went again going gorilla tight! I tightened them just enough to hold the die in place this time.

It's funny you ask about the neck squeaking...
My necks are squeaking on the upstroke.
I am using Redding imperial sizing wax on the body and Redding dry neck lube on the necks.

What do you think is happening?
 
I switched back to one bushing and the original spindle assembly.
I am using Forster die rings. I read in the instructions not to tighten the die rings too tight. There I went again going gorilla tight! I tightened them just enough to hold the die in place this time.

It's funny you ask about the neck squeaking...
My necks are squeaking on the upstroke.
I am using Redding imperial sizing wax on the body and Redding dry neck lube on the necks.

What do you think is happening?

If you are using the expander, then that is what is doing it. They can squeak if there is powder ash ("carbon") inside of the neck.
 
Cinch your rings down good n tight so they never move out of adjustment. Tight rings cant effect anything other than you having to put a new one on cause you stripped out the aluminum threads!

When you say upstroke what is going up? The case or the handle?

No expander ball correct?
 
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