C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Can someone explain the difference in recoil lugs? Tapered, angled, thickness, pinned! Anything! I don't see a lot of discussion about it. Maybe some Smiths will chime in.
Recoil Lugs
- Thread starter C.O. Shooter
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FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
The recoil lug transfers much of the force produced by recoil from the barrel to the mass of the stock. The thickness of the recoil lug determines how much flex, of any, it will have when forces are applied to it. Theoretically, and ovbviously not without merit, the idea is that a thin recoil lug will flex more than a thicker version of the same device.
The edges of recoil lugs are rounded to reduce the tendency for the edges to dig into the stock/bedding material when assembling the action into the stock. The same applies to tapered as opposed to straight sided models. The taper allows the finished assembly to be positioned more accurately, allowing for more accurate overall alignment, when placing the barreled action into the stock. Taller recoil lugs penetrate deeper into the stock so their surface area is greater when bedded into the stock.
The edges of recoil lugs are rounded to reduce the tendency for the edges to dig into the stock/bedding material when assembling the action into the stock. The same applies to tapered as opposed to straight sided models. The taper allows the finished assembly to be positioned more accurately, allowing for more accurate overall alignment, when placing the barreled action into the stock. Taller recoil lugs penetrate deeper into the stock so their surface area is greater when bedded into the stock.
Good question.
Also, a discussion of the Tika recoil lug would be interesting. They are nothing more than a piece of aluminum (I believe). That fits inside a slot in the stock and then inside a slot in the action. This does not follow conventional wisdom that a recoils lug must be rigid with a very solid connection between the action and stock. A Tika lug is more of a small piece of metal that floats in the slots between the stock and action. But every Tika owner tells you they shoot better than anything made in the USA, outside of a custom.
Also, a discussion of the Tika recoil lug would be interesting. They are nothing more than a piece of aluminum (I believe). That fits inside a slot in the stock and then inside a slot in the action. This does not follow conventional wisdom that a recoils lug must be rigid with a very solid connection between the action and stock. A Tika lug is more of a small piece of metal that floats in the slots between the stock and action. But every Tika owner tells you they shoot better than anything made in the USA, outside of a custom.
7mmShooter
Well-Known Member
The stock aluminum lug in the Tikka T3 is junk... Throw a thicker stainless or titanium lug in there though and you are off and running. Hell I know a few Tikka smiths that actually put 700 style lugs on the T3 actions.
So, what holds the Tika action and barrel tight to the stock so that no movement can happen between them during the shot. I understanding, is that what helps make a rifle accurate is that very tight bond between the action and stock, so that the action and barrel do not move sideways, to the straight plane of the stock, during recoil. Cause, conventional wisdom says that, if that happens the rifle will not be consistent from shot to shot. Is it the action screws that hold the action that secure in the Tika? Maybe you could remove the recoil lug in a Tika and it would shoot the same? Maybe we don't need recoil lugs in rifles at all???
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Is there any major difference in the lug thickness (.20/.25/.30/.35) and the lug taper?
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
For most intents and purposes, after the barrel is torqued with the lug inbetween, I don't believe there is. I'm sure someone could find an exception. Remember there are few set rules. And it strikes me that it'd be mighty trickey reliably and repeatbly being able to measure that defection. If the barreled action is bedded correctly, the back side of the lug is firmly against the bedding or it should be to prevent any rearward movement of the barreled action in the stock. As for the taper, 1* or 2* may not make it any easier to remove the barreled action from the stock. Conversely, the more taper the less surface area. I'll address the "pinned" thingy. BR shooters who glue their actions into the stock need a way to aline the lug when they change barrels, hence the pin or pins. It does nothing to enhance accuracy, it's strickly to keep the lug in place , 'cause the barreled action can't be removed from the stock. The most important part of the lug discussion is that the lug transfers even tension around its face, where it's sandwiched between the barrel and receiver. You wouldn't want it thicker in one place than in another.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Like everyone else I have my opinions on recoil lugs and will share what I think/know about them.
The shape(Straight versus Tapered) Is not that Important If it is installed correctly, the tapered is easier to take in and out of the bedding but has less surface area.
Thickness has its practical limits and beyond that offer un needed strength and at the same time can weaken the stock in the lug area. Factory lugs are marginal and when replacing them, I recommend going several sizes thicker. (Factory Remington's are 0.187 and I like the 0.200 or 0.2285 because they are stronger and do not remove a lot of stock. thicker than 0.250 offer nothing in my opinion and serve only to weaken the stock.
I am/have been a big fan of Sako's for years but hate there recoil lug design because of the movement it allows so I use steel, and hand fit it to the receiver (Tight) to keep it from loading the action screws. Note; with out exception, changing lug materials and fitting the lug tight to the action has improved the accuracy. (If it made no difference I would not spend the time and effort)
Personally, I don't like pinning the recoil lug to the action because drilling a hole axially (Along the center line) in the receiver ring has to reduce its overall strength. and most of us don't shoot puny
loads/cartridges.
The type of luge you chose has less effect than the bedding for it and different types of lugs may require different ways of bedding it to achieve maximum benefit from it. The main purpose for bedding , is to prevent the action from moving and loading the bedding/action screws where they become recoil lugs.
Just my opinion
J E CUSTOM
The shape(Straight versus Tapered) Is not that Important If it is installed correctly, the tapered is easier to take in and out of the bedding but has less surface area.
Thickness has its practical limits and beyond that offer un needed strength and at the same time can weaken the stock in the lug area. Factory lugs are marginal and when replacing them, I recommend going several sizes thicker. (Factory Remington's are 0.187 and I like the 0.200 or 0.2285 because they are stronger and do not remove a lot of stock. thicker than 0.250 offer nothing in my opinion and serve only to weaken the stock.
I am/have been a big fan of Sako's for years but hate there recoil lug design because of the movement it allows so I use steel, and hand fit it to the receiver (Tight) to keep it from loading the action screws. Note; with out exception, changing lug materials and fitting the lug tight to the action has improved the accuracy. (If it made no difference I would not spend the time and effort)
Personally, I don't like pinning the recoil lug to the action because drilling a hole axially (Along the center line) in the receiver ring has to reduce its overall strength. and most of us don't shoot puny
loads/cartridges.
The type of luge you chose has less effect than the bedding for it and different types of lugs may require different ways of bedding it to achieve maximum benefit from it. The main purpose for bedding , is to prevent the action from moving and loading the bedding/action screws where they become recoil lugs.
Just my opinion
J E CUSTOM
7mmShooter
Well-Known Member
Maybe I should rephrase what I meant by that... They certainly shoot great from the factory, but the lugs do not hold up for long.. If you look at the stock lug after the rifle has been shot for a few rounds you will see an upside down trapezoid start to form.. That deformation of the lug will allow the action to move under recoil. This is why most smiths that work on tikkas recommend you replace the lug as it usually fails around 100 rounds.
Have a great day guys!
I always send one of these with my action for rebarreling
Holland's Competition Recoil Lug .250 Thick SS
Holland's Competition Recoil Lug .250 Thick SS
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Thank you all for your insight.
