Recently overcame accuracy problem (rem 700)

KayakJack

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I am by no means an expert, but far from a novice.

I previously posted in the reloading section about having problems developing a load that my Remington 700 Long Range would like in 25-06. I posted my final update there, but today I made even more strides that I wanted to share.

I went through five different powders and five different projectiles. Nothing worked...not even factory ammo. I didn't know if 25-06 was just a finicky caliber or if it was a problem with my rifle. The only thing that could hit right at MOA were 75gr VMax. My 100gr Sierras would open up a bit, and 115 Noslers opened up a bit more. I was getting between 2-4" groups with 115gr bullets.

I noticed at the range one day that my rifle was copper fouling after about 20 rounds. I figured that was an issue I should address. Next up, by recommendation on this forum, was to get rid of the lead sled. Although it was shooting fine with light bullets...heavier bullet, the more recoil...perhaps just enough to induces excess oscillation. That made sense; if there is no where for the recoil to go, the barrel is the only other moving part.

Between my next trip to the range, I used some Sweet's 7.62 copper remover and cleaned up the barrel real good. I also bought a gun rest for just the forend of the rifle. I also tried a slower burning powder and some Nolser 115gr ballistic tips vs. the partitions I was trying before. The rifle was right at MOA, if not slightly under. I was happier, but still not satisfied. It copper fouled badly!

I did some more reading. Between trips to the range, I installed a Timney Trigger, factory set at 3lbs. Oooh, feels so good!!! I hit the range with 30 rounds loaded of Tubb's Final Finish barrel lapping bullets...using only the last three, lightest abrasive bullets, cleaning thoroughly between each set of 10. On the last set, I couldn't believe what I was seeing. Each round was tearing the same hole wider with each shot. I cleaned it up and fired my first set of Nosler 115s...5 rounds at about .5 MOA!!! No. Way! There are mixed reviews on whether final finish can improve accuracy. I am a believer.
I thought this gun was toast. I was talking with gunsmiths about possibly recrowning or just buying a new barrel. Knowing I had a fouler, I figured, "What can it hurt to try Final Finish?"

RECAP:
Get off the lead sled so the rifle can recoil naturally.
Try different powders and primers.
If it is a fouler, do something about it...unless you enjoy swabbing out copper every time.
My first time with a quality trigger...VERY big difference!
 
Most shooters Miss the fact you have to properly brake in a Barrel , that's exactly why they don't shoot to their true potential , this is very true of Factory Barrels . Congrats your ahead of your learning curve, now buy that one piece cleaning rod n bore guide , ps make sure the rod is long enuff to go through the bore guide and out your barrel for cleaning . Ps I shoot 25/06 n reload pm me if you wish ,thks
 
Most shooters Miss the fact you have to properly brake in a Barrel , that's exactly why they don't shoot to their true potential , this is very true of Factory Barrels . Congrats your ahead of your learning curve, now buy that one piece cleaning rod n bore guide , ps make sure the rod is long enuff to go through the bore guide and out your barrel for cleaning . Ps I shoot 25/06 n reload pm me if you wish ,thks
I definitely use a bore guide. Just need the one piece carbon fiber rod.
 
Wow, that sounds great! My recent personal experimentation showed that a heavy front rest and rabbit ear rear bag really helps show the rifles ability. I'm also doing more of a free recoil method to reduce my contribution to the rifle firing.

I thought breaking in a barrel had more to do with reducing fouling.
 
The older Ruger 77 with a 24 inch barrel. Its a synthetic stock but not like the new ones. I bought it new but it sat in the store for several years. They kept dropping the price until I could not resist it. What a shooter. I talked to a gun smith today about getting a Timney trigger put in it. The trigger is a little tough and they are not adjustable. He said he could stone it down but I still wouldn't have an adjustable trigger. I have a 6.5x55 Mauser with a timney trigger. Man you can't beat them for a hunting trigger. They will go down to about two pounds if you want. I think about three will do it.

Not much use yet but the 100 grain and 115 grain seem to perform about the same. I might try the Hornady sst and the new Accubond. I have had good luck with the 120 grain Partition as well. In the Roberts that is. Have not tried them in the Ruger.
 
Was that a new rifle or a new to you rifle? I picked up a used 25/06 not long ago and have only got down to 3/4 moa. Still working on different loads.- never satisfied til I get a 1/2 moa hunting load.
 
Nice post. Sure you are relieved as I have been right there scratching my head many times. There will be other gremlins that pop up in the future but that's how we learn right? Going forward I would consider defining what is acceptable to you for accuracy, load up a bunch of the same lot when you get there and start another project. These things can go in reverse chasing that last 1/2 minute. Nice choice on the timney as well. Bet you a dollar someone else is dealing with the same issue you just went thru will benefit
 
Was that a new rifle or a new to you rifle? I picked up a used 25/06 not long ago and have only got down to 3/4 moa. Still working on different loads.- never satisfied til I get a 1/2 moa hunting load.
I have to admit, this is my 1st Remington 700. Overall, I expected more from this rifle. The factory trigger was horrible, and obviously the bore wasn't a quality lapping job by any means. I just picked up a new Browning x-bolt in 308. Let's see how it goes.
 
Most novices overlook 4 very important things on most factory rifles... The crown, the barrel being lapped, the trigger, and the action screws being torqued properly. Most factory rifles can be made to shoot if they have a good chamber and a good barrel on them. They just need a little work.
 
Most novices overlook 4 very important things on most factory rifles... The crown, the barrel being lapped, the trigger, and the action screws being torqued properly. Most factory rifles can be made to shoot if they have a good chamber and a good barrel on them. They just need a little work.
I hear ya. This just happened to be the the worst gun out-the-box I have ever experienced. Started with darn near 4" groups at 100 yards. I still believe a product shouldn't "need work" to serve its intended purpose. Heck, my flimsy stock $300 Ruger American 308 always shot .75 MOA or better on a bad day...since the day I took it home.
 
I hear ya. This just happened to be the the worst gun out-the-box I have ever experienced. Started with darn near 4" groups at 100 yards. I still believe a product shouldn't "need work" to serve its intended purpose. Heck, my flimsy stock $300 Ruger American 308 always shot .75 MOA or better on a bad day...since the day I took it home.

Your right it should not need be that bad out of the box. Just think how that Ruger might shoot if you did the same thing to it. ;)
 
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