Reamer question

[haisardao]

I'm hoping to get some info from the many members here that know a lot about this stuff. Let's say I want to build a 300 RUM and want to use 230 gr Bergers. How do you go about ordering a reamer to throat a rifle for a specific bullet? How many reamers do I need to chamber a rifle? Just a Finishing reamer? Thanks in advance.

 

[FEENIX]

I'm hoping to get some info from the many members here that know a lot about this stuff. Let's say I want to build a 300 RUM and want to use 230 gr Bergers. How do you go about ordering a reamer to throat a rifle for a specific bullet? How many reamers do I need to chamber a rifle? Just a Finishing reamer? Thanks in advance.

We all have different requirements/intended goal; consult with your trusted gunsmith that is going to build your rifle.

ADDED:

Both my custom reamers were made by Manson Precision Reamers. Dave Manson built the last one before he sold the company. He is still there though to help them. It is the removable pilot version, also ordered the go-no-go headspace gauges. I should have ordered the die reamer too. My gunsmith end up ordering the reamer at PT&G and ended up building my custom dies including hydraulic forming dies.

 

[AZShooter]

Good to hear from someone who is considering the reamer. IMO it is an important part of a build that some don't consider. Seems like many just tell the gunsmith to make them the rifle.

My friend and I own lathes and ordered 18 reamers in various chamberings. We often talked to Dave Kiff, Pacific Tool and Gauge, about the specifications.

I own a 300 RUM reamer I bought with the specs that Dave said worked best. While many reamers these days use a 1 degree 30 minute angle in the throat area the Dave told me the 1 degree angle worked better with the 300 RUM.

I only used that reamer once, so far, and with 230 gr Bergers it is a shooter! My rifle is a post 64 model 70 with a Wyatt's mag box. OAL is 3.760" Wouldn't worry too much about the OAL and what the jump to the lands might be with your setup. In my experience the hybrid bullets are not finicky where they are seated.

Now for the interesting part: A friend bought a Proof Research custom in 300 RUM. I used the 230 and worked up a load for his rifle. Just like mine I was able to come up with a very accurate load in one range session! I was so impressed I called Proof to talk to a technician and compliment them. I asked what reamer they used and discovered it is the same reamer as mine! Yes, they had Pacific Tool and Gauge make theirs as well.

I am looking at the reamer print I own and see there is no special number or name for it other than 300 Rem Ultra Mag. If you were to order one from PT&G I would suggest you ask for the same one Proof uses and perhaps mention that it is using a 1 degree throat angle.

I could take a picture and send you the reamer print if you like.

Regarding how many reamers: If the gunsmith takes his time the finish reamer will do it all. I asked Curt Krum of Dave Miller Co that question and he said that they only use a finish reamer. He said just take your time and clean chips from the reamer often.

 

[mtbullet1]

talk to the reamer mfg.

 

[haisardao]

Good to hear from someone who is considering the reamer. IMO it is an important part of a build that some don't consider. Seems like many just tell the gunsmith to make them the rifle.

My friend and I own lathes and ordered 18 reamers in various chamberings. We often talked to Dave Kiff, Pacific Tool and Gauge, about the specifications.

I own a 300 RUM reamer I bought with the specs that Dave said worked best. While many reamers these days use a 1 degree 30 minute angle in the throat area the Dave told me the 1 degree angle worked better with the 300 RUM.

I only used that reamer once, so far, and with 230 gr Bergers it is a shooter! My rifle is a post 64 model 70 with a Wyatt's mag box. OAL is 3.760" Wouldn't worry too much about the OAL and what the jump to the lands might be with your setup. In my experience the hybrid bullets are not finicky where they are seated.

Now for the interesting part: A friend bought a Proof Research custom in 300 RUM. I used the 230 and worked up a load for his rifle. Just like mine I was able to come up with a very accurate load in one range session! I was so impressed I called Proof to talk to a technician and compliment them. I asked what reamer they used and discovered it is the same reamer as mine! Yes, they had Pacific Tool and Gauge make theirs as well.

I am looking at the reamer print I own and see there is no special number or name for it other than 300 Rem Ultra Mag. If you were to order one from PT&G I would suggest you ask for the same one Proof uses and perhaps mention that it is using a 1 degree throat angle.

I could take a picture and send you the reamer print if you like.

Regarding how many reamers: If the gunsmith takes his time the finish reamer will do it all. I asked Curt Krum of Dave Miller Co that question and he said that they only use a finish reamer. He said just take your time and clean chips from the reamer often.

Thank you for this comprehensive answer. I'd be great if you could share the reamer info with me. Thanks again, H

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

We use Finish Reamers.
We usually make a dummy round with the bullet we want to put for seating depth and neck size if you turn your necks. The Reamer manufacture will measure you Dummy Round and make a Reamer to that speck. You can call JGS, PTG, Mason and discuss with them what you want.
If you have a good Gun Smith you can discuss with him/her what you want also. If you want a specific bullet they should be able to Throat it for you.
Custom Reamers can cost almost double as a SAAMI

 

[Mikecr]

I haven't had an issue measuring new brass/bullets and filing out reamer prints for myself (for exactly what I want).
My barrels have been finished using the [finish reamer] only. I guess they drill the rough chamber first, with whatever they do that straightest with.
But as cheap as reamer sets are, and I don't know who will be finishing barrels for me down the road, I usually order a rough, finish, and sizing set along with bushings and go/no-go gauges.
I get Wilson blanks cut with my sizing reamer, which I've filled out a print for to ensure no sizing.
Later, my actual sizing die will be done from a die maker, based on my fired cases.

I know how many uses are on my reamers, and can have confidence that another barrel will have a VERY close chamber to the last.
So far I have not needed to change brass between barrels (which is awesome).

You don't need a wizard to figure out the freebore or any other numbers.
You don't need anyone telling you what to do.
When ordering your own reamer, you have the opportunity to make exactly what YOU WANT for your chamber and final formed cartridge.
If you have the brass in-hand, and bullets in-hand, you can take some measurements and fill in a blank reamer print. Or, get dimensions off the internet & fill it out. Check the numbers from different sources though.

 

[haisardao]

I haven't had an issue measuring new brass/bullets and filing out reamer prints for myself (for exactly what I want).
My barrels have been finished using the [finish reamer] only. I guess they drill the rough chamber first, with whatever they do that straightest with.
But as cheap as reamer sets are, and I don't know who will be finishing barrels for me down the road, I usually order a rough, finish, and sizing set along with bushings and go/no-go gauges.
I get Wilson blanks cut with my sizing reamer, which I've filled out a print for to ensure no sizing.
Later, my actual sizing die will be done from a die maker, based on my fired cases.

I know how many uses are on my reamers, and can have confidence that another barrel will have a VERY close chamber to the last.
So far I have not needed to change brass between barrels (which is awesome).

You don't need a wizard to figure out the freebore or any other numbers.
You don't need anyone telling you what to do.
When ordering your own reamer, you have the opportunity to make exactly what YOU WANT for your chamber and final formed cartridge.
If you have the brass in-hand, and bullets in-hand, you can take some measurements and fill in a blank reamer print. Or, get dimensions off the internet & fill it out. Check the numbers from different sources though.

Thank you, very insightful comment.
Best.