Ran out of scope elevation travel what do you recommend?

Good morning,
I have a 20MOA nightforce rail mounted to the top of the action with Tally mid height rings right now. The scope is a Vortex PST 6-24x50 FFP, in mils. The center of the bore to the center of the scope is right at about 2".

I went an sighted in the rifle the other day and I noticed that when I have the rifle zeroed at 100 yards I only have about 6.3 mills of elevation travel left in the scope which will only get me out to about 900 yards. I would like to maintain a 100 yard zero and if I can get close to a mile that would be great.

My daughter wasn't to try some PRS events this year and this would be the rifle that she would use. It is a 6mm creed, pushing a 108gr ELD-M at 3025.

Would you recommend swapping out the base with a 40MOA and going with lower rings or would you do something different?

Thanks for your Input.

JBM shows that with you load, you need 26.4mil to go from a 100 yard zero to about 1 mile. If your scope only has 19mil of travel, what you are trying to do is impossible, without using the offsets in the scope, regardless of the canted rails or Signature ring offsets.



A 30 MOA rail is equivalent to 8.5mil; a 20 MOA rail is 5.7mil.

So when you start, IF EVERYTHING IS PERFECT, at 100 yard zero, you will have 9MIL of elevation to the top and 10mil of dead space below. If you already have a 20moa rail and you only have 6.3 mil left, you have an issue. You should have up to 14.7 mil up and 6.3 down. Perhaps you mounted the rail wrong.

Anyway, even in a perfect world, the 20MOA rail, properly setup would take you to about 1400 yards.

A 30 MOA rail will take yo pretty close to 1700 yards, but there will be no 100 yard zero. The furthest you can go from a 100 yard zero will be 1600 yards, and that's if everything was perfect.

You could gain a little more distance by using taller rings, so I'm not sure why you're so intent of getting shorter rings.

PS I reserve the right to recheck my math. I hate mixing MILs, MOAs and canted rails in the same sentence or equation.
 
WAIT, Wait... something does not add up here.. I have a 20 MOA offset Badger Ord base on my 338 Lapua. I have MOA adjustments on my Leupold target scope. I had to adjust elevation DOWN below center to get a 100 yard sight in. none of this is adding up to me.. Winkfish. something is VERY wrong here. you should have more elevation than half your travel. do you have a 1" or a 30MM tube? if it is a 1"; you definitely need a 30MM, 34MM tube with 120 Mils adjustment or slightly more. Bud, I think your scope is bad or something is aweful wrong in this setup. I saw a guy in competition put his 20 MOA offset on backwards before.. sorry about the way this is phrased.. it took me completely off guard. Recheck your setup. I would suggest 30 MM or 34 MM main tube, ditch the talley rings I never trusted them, keep the 20 MOA offset base/rail, and check that Vortex for being bad.

Yup, I am very close to the BOTTOM of the adjustment on my Vortex as well. A 30mm tube is plenty; DITCH THE TALLEYS. Could the Talley rings be 20MOA versions, accidentally installed backwards for a NET MOA gain of ZERO?
 
over there in usa some
Good morning,
I have a 20MOA nightforce rail mounted to the top of the action with Tally mid height rings right now. The scope is a Vortex PST 6-24x50 FFP, in mils. The center of the bore to the center of the scope is right at about 2".

I went an sighted in the rifle the other day and I noticed that when I have the rifle zeroed at 100 yards I only have about 6.3 mills of elevation travel left in the scope which will only get me out to about 900 yards. I would like to maintain a 100 yard zero and if I can get close to a mile that would be great.

My daughter wasn't to try some PRS events this year and this would be the rifle that she would use. It is a 6mm creed, pushing a 108gr ELD-M at 3025.

Would you recommend swapping out the base with a 40MOA and going with lower rings or would you do something different?

Thanks for your Input.
Good morning,
I have a 20MOA nightforce rail mounted to the top of the action with Tally mid height rings right now. The scope is a Vortex PST 6-24x50 FFP, in mils. The center of the bore to the center of the scope is right at about 2".

I went an sighted in the rifle the other day and I noticed that when I have the rifle zeroed at 100 yards I only have about 6.3 mills of elevation travel left in the scope which will only get me out to about 900 yards. I would like to maintain a 100 yard zero and if I can get close to a mile that would be great.

My daughter wasn't to try some PRS events this year and this would be the rifle that she would use. It is a 6mm creed, pushing a 108gr ELD-M at 3025.

Would you recommend swapping out the base with a 40MOA and going with lower rings or would you do something different?

Thanks for your Input.



View attachment 178498
hi .... i saw that in the states few small companies made rails capable of 120 mils or 360 moa... for around 200 $ .. the advantage? after u set the scope on the rifle and zero it at 100 .. you take it out again install on rail and rezero whit the rail...on elevation you reticle won't need to move anymore so you don't have distorsion as you pushing at max with scope elevation.. because no internal part are moving .. but only the new rail which is adjustable as i said...whit more than 100 mils.up( no dows!!!)
 
I shoot a 260 rem. and use a 40moa. Farrell base holding American Rifle Co. rings wrapped around my IOR Recon 4-28x50 40mm scope. The scope has 35 mils of elevation in it. I had to use 22 mil elevation to throw the 140gr. Hybrid at 2860fps. to hit an 18in. plate at 1760. Farrell makes great rings and bases I se many.
 
Thank you for the additional input and direction on a few products that I didn't know were out there.

Below is an image of the base so if I go by that it is of the 20MOA version. Due to the nature of the receiver there is only one way to get it to fit correctly. I also checked the rings and there are no marking on them so I am assuming they a "standard" set.

I agree that there is something that doesn't add up and hence my question to the forum. After running the numbers it would appear that with this scope I do not have enough to dial from 100 to 1700 alone and I could use the reticle as required. I was just hoping to get there if possible.

There are many better scope options out there with more elevation travel, however this is the one I currently have available and I am going to give it a go before upgrading to something else.

I went ahead and ordered the burris rings as suggested by a few folks. I can see where there may be some concerns with there function. I am willing to give them a try and see how it goes as a first step. I believe that they will be delivered early this week so with any luck I should be able to report back in a few day with an update.




20200229_101409.jpg
 
Good morning forum:
I got my ring in yesterday and I installed them. I put -20MOA in the front and +5 in the rear.

I zeroed the rifle at 100 yards and I now have 17Mils of elevation available to me. That will get me to just over 1400 yards which will be enough for now.

One thing that struck me as odd as I was installing the scope back on the rifle I placed several bubble levels along the scope base and if I had the rear level in the middle that the front bubble was off to one side. It would appear that the base is twisted a little bit. I may have to order another base at some point to see if the one that I have is causing part of the issue.

Thank you for all the continued input.



20200305_170532.jpg
 
With the current base and your new ring configuration you're adding 45 moa to your setup. That's quite a bit of elevation.

As far at the rail not being level, did you have any issues with the screw holes lining up on your action when you installed the rail originally? I wouldn't expect a quality mount like Nightforce to be off, but you never know. I'm wondering if your action wasn't drilled properly?
 
I agree with the 45MOA being excessive for the configuration. It still does not add up correctly to me. There is a defect somewhere and it may be in the operator. There were no issue with screw alignment when I placed the base.
 
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