Questions on Savage-style barrel nut

Your gun is only as good as its weakest parts, as stated if you get the precision nut and lug the next item would be to square the action, then lugs. This is a Savage Lightweight Hunter LA I just tore apart for my 6-284 build 6 twist barrel to shoot the 110 Hammers(non lead state). It is light a action at ~17oz with trigger, no bolt. The lugs appear to make very little/uneven contact by looking at the wear on the back of them. Harder to see the marks on the receiver from the light reflecting but it is an example of what can be improved on in a factory action. The very solid wood stock weighs in at 1lb 14oz with bottom metal, magazine, recoil pad, and trigger guard. This gun was new $475 gunbroker purchase, hopefully I can get some money from selling the .270 WIN barrel. that's what I like about barrel nut builds !
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge JE and others.
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CNC nut and lug are awesome. Also big horn makes a nice nut that doesn't require a savage tool.

I used a pile of CNC nuts and lugs and recently have the big horn nut on my tl3 action. All do great.
 
A note to J E CUSTOM. If you have a computer problem, do what I do - Ask my granddaughter. These kids nowadays know more that I ever will - LOL
 
FYI, I do true my savage actions with ptg reamer and bolt face reamer. When using a action reamer and bolt face reamer I see considerably better nut and lug lock up and better bolt lug surface contact. Accuracy improvement is minor but I do feel the improvement is nice
 
We use Mcgowen barrels with remage nuts from 28 nosler to 41 xc with great accuracy and no problems with muzzle energy up to 9000 ftlbs
 
Unless you want to be taking the barrel on and off I recommend not using a barrel nut at all, especially on small shank actions, and hears why. With a barrel nut the barrel shank has to be turned down to the thread size all the way. Without the barrel nut the threaded part of the shank has to fit the receiver ring threads, but the rest of the shank can be 1.200 or 1.250 depending on the barrel size.

This gives you a 1/4" of extra support for most of the chamber. Chambers expand on firing and return to original size after firing. the larger the shank the less expansion takes place and the easier it is to extract the spent case. The larger shank also helps support the barrel and give a better bedding surface. I do it for many other reasons to.

Just something to think about

J E CUSTOM
Plus it doesn,t look like it was made at the 5 and dime store. I tell everybody a savage is like a fat ugly woman. Ok as long as no one sees you. lol
 
Good for them. I do not like them.[/QUOTE

it's nice to have choices. Perhaps you could make another and keep your non-relevant and unhelpful comments to your self. It's super easy, either to add value to a convo or move along. It's similar to ford vs Chevy vs dodge. They are get our butts to where we want to go, just enjoy the ride.
 
Lots of accomplished long range shooters and hunters on this site use Savage rifles.
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Look at a savage. How to make something as cheaply as possible. On one hand they need only a short and long. They can change bolt heads by taking out the sewing needle firing pin and pushing out a pin and change bolt heads. Doesn,t seem to give trouble but neither did a ford flathead. I hate their trigger bolt release. I just think a Remington is far superior. And whenever a rebarrel for a customer I throw the barrel nut in the garbage and use a ptg recoil lug. But I will say they shoot well.
 
@J E Custom , I definitely value your input, but I'm so unfamiliar with gunsmithing, I don't understand most of what you said.

For example, I don't understand this sentence: "With a barrel nut the barrel shank has to be turned down to the thread size all the way."

So...The best I can do is figure that you're saying a small shank barrel nut doesn't take full advantage of the threads on the barrel shank, and so I might as well use a system that uses that extra 1/4" and which will give more stability, especially in the expansion and contraction of the barrel.

But I'm super confused because as I compare the large- and small-shank barrel nut, I find that the small nut is actually larger (7/8" vice 5"8")! What? That doesn't make any sense.

Also, I can't access your website from my work/government computer (It gives me an "Access Denied" error), so I can't see if you offer some alternative. I am aware of American Rifle Company's BARLOC, but I admit that I don't understand it. And I am completely ignorant on what other system you may be hinting at; If I don't use a barrel nut, what other option is there? My action says to use a small shank Savage barrel nut.

Thanks in advance for being patient with me.

I'm like you, only worst in understanding. Which is why I take situations like this to my local gunsmith. I've learned over the years what my Dad taught me... "You can't beat a man at his own game".

In the gun business, it's better to be safe/sure than cheap/injured/dead.
 
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