Question on Holland Art system

Billinsd

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Sep 6, 2007
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I was perusing some old threads and found this
http://www.hollandguns.com/downloads/ARTScopeBrochure.pdf

I read that the reticle is calibrated at the max magnification, so say I have a 4.5 x 14 power Lupy I would need to dial it up to 14 power to use the MOA hash marks on the ART reticle, right?

Also, I am not concerned about using the reticle for range finding.

So, what I'm thinking is that I like the balistic turrets the best, however I have to dial the range, which takes time.

The reticle it faster, except I would have to dial my scope to 14 power, and then remember or look at a card to see what my bullet drop is and calculate what hash mark to use? And what if 14 power was too high for the range I am shooting? The way I understand it, calibrated reticles are for shorter distances than target turrets?

I'd say if I could use the reticle at any magnification the decision would be easy.

What do you guys think?
Bill
 
You can use any reticle at any distance if you use Exbal and its reticle tool.

You plug in your MV, above bore height, sight in distance, BC etc and hit "compute", then click on reticle tool and plug in the distances between marks, max power, and operating power(ie what power do you want to figure using) and it will calculate the MOA distances for that power and what distance that hash mark/dot or whatever is actually.

I have set up 6-18 Swarovski TDS, 3-9 Kahles in TDS, Leupold Boone and Crockett, Varmint , Nikon BDC reticles all using this.

For example my 3-9 TDS on a 300 WSM is sighted in at 200. I have simple drop chart on side of stock and in a lamintated credit card size for 6x, 7x, 8x and 9x. gives me dead on yardages for 4 crosshairs out to over 800.

My Hollands brochure says that the reticle is etched on glass and can be used on any power setting.

All you need to do is have a simple drop chart at 100 yard intervals.

BH
 
Depends if it is a first focal plane or second focal plane optic.
If it is a SFP, you need to have it on 14x (for a 4.5x14 power scope) for the subtensions to be correct.
A FFP it can be on any power and you can use any part of the reticle.
The main crosshair is fine on any power with a second focal plane scope.
 
Seems that we have two different brochures. Mine is older that the one posted.

My brochure (which is older) clearly states that... "it can be used at ANY power". Now it only lists the ART for Leupold scopes (Vari X-III and Mk 4) which were only SFP as they come from the factory.

Looks like now he does Leupolds (Mk 4, PR series and VX3) and S&B and you have a choice of FFP or SFP.


If you get the SFP, you can still use exbal, but I would get the FFP for simplicity.

BH
 
My scope is a second focal plane and yes I would have to have to have it calibrated at 14 power.

Thanks everyone for the info.

Bill
 
And what if 14 power was too high for the range I am shooting? The way I understand it, calibrated reticles are for shorter distances than target turrets?

There are two time honored ways of dealing with the close in shots. These ways go back into the 1970s and the Redfield and Bushnell scopes.

First is that you do not need any BDC for shots out to about 300 yards. You know that with a 100 yard zero you are two inches low at 200 yards and nine inches low at 300 give or take a little. So for a two hundred yard shot just hold a frog hair high and for 300 hold down under the deers back a couple of inches. For distances beyond that then you should have time to adjust the magnification up and use the ART.

Second is to have a 300 yard zero and just hold dead on for those shots. Build your drop chart for the reticle off of the 300 yard zero and adjust up the magnificatin for those shots.
 
i like the 300 yd zero method, that way it doesn't matter what magnification you're one, the center hair/dot is on at 300. farther shots require a little time to "crank"
 
I have one of hollands FFP scopes and I will tell you it is hard to beat because you can't make a mistake even in a rush. Pricey though
 
I see, so with that logic I could also use target turrets or Bullet Drop Compensators for my particular bullet and environmental conditions.

I'm thinking here for my Ruger 204 and also 7mm Mag, I know they are both different guns.

I'm leaning toward the BDCs for the 204 and maybe the 7mm Mag.

Mostly, because I do one out of state big game hunt a year and sometimes they are bow hunts. So, I can afford to buy BDCs for each particular hunt, say every couple years.

The one for my 204 is not as critical as it will be for jack rabbits and coyotes, so if I get a BDC for the typical elevations I hunt I should be fine, especially under 500 yards

I'm just figuring out what is practical for me.

I found this site about 2 years ago and learned a lot for a desert sheep hunt I drew and I scoped my trusty 30-06 with a nice scope, bought BDCs for the Stoney Point turrets I bought and I made a nice one shot kill at 400 yards and I was confident out to 600 and was able to practice a whole lot.


Thanks
Bill
 
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