Problems with annealing by hand?

Zinc vaporizes at 1600 F. Flame color may change.
flame changes color
I use a modified candle method. But takes up a lot of time. Slow.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/different-kind-of-annealing-question.862531/ 20200124_194833.jpg
 
I rotate the cases between my thumb and pointer finger, just as it gets hot on my fingers, I drop it in water. Have done it like this for years. I don't shoot competition, but have no problem achieving 1/2" groups with my rifles. Of course, a rifle goes down the road if I cannot achieve 1/2" groups with it.
 
I rotate the cases between my thumb and pointer finger, just as it gets hot on my fingers, I drop it in water. Have done it like this for years. I don't shoot competition, but have no problem achieving 1/2" groups with my rifles. Of course, a rifle goes down the road if I cannot achieve 1/2" groups with it.

Lots of feedback, all helpful. Thank you. I find myself in a similar boat. Most rifles I can get below the 1/2 MOA mark. One I had down to 0.23 MOA early on (also on a rifle that is now towards the end of its barrel life so I can't prove the test). Anyone getting sub 1/4 MOA using this finger rotation method like myself and a few others?
 
Lots of feedback, all helpful. Thank you. I find myself in a similar boat. Most rifles I can get below the 1/2 MOA mark. One I had down to 0.23 MOA early on (also on a rifle that is now towards the end of its barrel life so I can't prove the test). Anyone getting sub 1/4 MOA using this finger rotation method like myself and a few others?
I often get sub1/2", but didn't want to indicate this to avoid being called someone who exaggerates. 😁
 
I'm pretty new to all this. What is the advantage of annealing?
The more you shoot your brass and reload it the harder the brass gets when it is resized. By annealing the brass it softens it again so that when you resize it the brass won't split. Eventually it will split but it lengthens the life of the brass and can be used longer.
 
I was going to drop the money for an AMP machine but then realized I could buy a lot of brass for what that thing costs. I have never had cases split or issues from not annealing. If you read the AMP testing, most methods are not accurate enough to maintain the proper temps for the proper time. I think I will save my money and buy another gun or more brass and throw mine away when I start having issues with the brass from hardening.
 
Rather than jump in and buy a high end annealer or rig something up, I decided to attempt a simple hand speed rotation until the flame changes color then dropping into water or on a wet rag.

Everything seems to be doing fine. I feel like it's better to do this than nothing every few firings.

What are your thoughts? More harm than good? How so if that is the case, HOW would it negatively impact accuracy if at all?
Your doing a fine job Bud, The drill and socket works very good as well, I will give some advice, if your flame is changing color you are right on the edge of being to hot, If you turn off the lights or get in a dark corner heat your neck to a soft orange glow and you'll be right on the money, keep up the good work
 
When applying heat to the neck shoulder area, the case body may get to 400 degrees F. This stress relieves brass, a good thing.
Less chance of case separations . Mostly in 5.56 auto rifles, when the actions open early.
 
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