Chamberman
Well-Known Member
This is how I do it and it works great- never had an issue. DO NOT QUENCH THE CASES- just drop them in a glass cake pan or something and let them cool.
Problems with annealing by hand?
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Purchased and used tempilaq in a couple different temperature ranges. Tried it. Proved too difficult to see color change for me.
Haven't used it for many years now. Don't even know if I could find it or kept it. I use a battery operated drill with a universal case holder which grips the case heads in their extraction groove. Works good for me.
Never gonna spend $500 on an automated annealing machine. I hunt long range. Don't shoot 1000yd benchrest competition. So don't know if those guys actually benefit or not. I did watch a couple YouTube videos by Erik Cortina, who competes professionally. Here's a couple YouTube links posted by Erik, which provide a good visual demonstration of cartidge case annealing.
Haven't used it for many years now. Don't even know if I could find it or kept it. I use a battery operated drill with a universal case holder which grips the case heads in their extraction groove. Works good for me.
Never gonna spend $500 on an automated annealing machine. I hunt long range. Don't shoot 1000yd benchrest competition. So don't know if those guys actually benefit or not. I did watch a couple YouTube videos by Erik Cortina, who competes professionally. Here's a couple YouTube links posted by Erik, which provide a good visual demonstration of cartidge case annealing.
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Quenching won't hurt anything, I don't simply because I don't want to wait on my cases to dry
I started into annealing because I found that seating bullets required extra force and were not seating consistently. I've never had issues with case failures. I tried the drill and socket method and it worked great. Simple and safe. However, it was too slow. I wanted something with a hopper with automated feed and time-in-flame control. For about $50 I made one from ebay parts. Its pretty basic but now I get consistent results from case to case. That seems to help. It was worth the time investment.
I have used the old pan and water trick for years, Stop the neck splitting, and it became the primer pocket that would go. I didn't have the problems that were mention above. I was very careful on the heat on the necks. Now I going to the high end anealer. I am changing my whole reloading process completely. Thanks to Long Range Shooting. Somethings I was and had been doing correctly and others not so good, but I got most of the rifles to 1/2" grouping at 100yds with my system of reloading. Shortly I will see if I can't tighten up on my groups. I am looking forward to see what I can do with the new processes, brass, and brass prep. I work on two lines. Velocity, and Accuracy. Both have to be there or I won't use them. 25-06 was my main go to rifle for years. Sized 270, 30-06 case to 25-06 cases. Never has that problem. I didn't have the primer pocket loosen up either.
rewiltshire
Well-Known Member
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- Sep 3, 2012
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One of my friends has one similar to the Ken Light machine. Has different wheels for different size cases. You can sit there and drop the cases in and let it do it thing. Only problem I encounter, when doing 40-65 or 45-70 cases I must push them up from the bottom. Better be fast or you will pinch your fingers (and stop the wheel from turning). But then I didn't have to spend $500+, I just borrow it at the end of the season. All it cost me is the bottles of propane and the heat from the flames help keep me warm in the winter.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
Socket and torch method works great and no blisters. I dump them into water straight from the socket. Brass does not quench harden, so no damage done there.
Seeing my Lapua brass was annealed from the manufacturer, I was interested in re-annealing the brass so I contacted Lapua and asked them for recommendations for how often and any other information they cared to share. They wrote back that they did not recommend re-annealing Lapua brand of brass. They stated that over and or under annealing their brass ruined it. I was a little shocked because I have read many forums of folks re-annealing their brass.
This is the actual response I received from Lapua.
LAPUA brass is made in such a way that it lasts for many more firings than other makes of cartridge cases . We do not advise any re- annealing of our brass due to the many down sides of this . If the brass is over or under annealed its ruined .
This is the actual response I received from Lapua.
LAPUA brass is made in such a way that it lasts for many more firings than other makes of cartridge cases . We do not advise any re- annealing of our brass due to the many down sides of this . If the brass is over or under annealed its ruined .
Me too
brentru
Well-Known Member
How can you ruin brass by "under annealing"??? Technically, if you under anneal, you haven't annealed it. Going too hot and/or too long can absolutely ruin brass.
I took it as a manufacturer disclaimer involving correct vs incorrect annealing. Sounds like you have it down pat. I am trying to learn how to do it correctly.
There is a really good conversation about the science of annealing that happened here awhile ago. Good info if you can find it. It has an 'over' and 'under' annealing discussion. I tell beginners, "consistency is what we are striving for." If you are getting consistent results without annealing, then keep doing what you are doing. I think at some point, that consistency will fade. Brass will eventually work harden. Then the options are annealing or tossing the brass. Why not try annealing to avoid buying new brass?
Over the last year, or two, I've annealed every other firing. Now I'm wondering if I should do every firing or wait longer. Needs testing.
Over the last year, or two, I've annealed every other firing. Now I'm wondering if I should do every firing or wait longer. Needs testing.
