Primer pocket depth

Biged that's what I was afraid of. When I set the cutter depth I measured spent primers and new, noted the differences, read all I could find on the forums, set my cutter depth at .131 based on what I could find as being the best recommendations, and when combined with the measurements I took seemed logical.

The biggest problem I have is with the bulk once fired Lake City 7.62 and 5.56 I buy. The military uses CCI #34 and #41 primers and the anvils are shorter. And a standard primer pocket uniformer removes more brass than with commercial cases.

Also every primer pocket uniformer I have is set at the factory for cutting depth, even the adjustable uniformers. Meaning I would never adjust the uniformer until after seating a primer and it was above flush. The first thing I do to check the uniformer is to make sure the uniformer removed the rounded corners of the primer pocket. This insures the primer cup is allowed to bottom out and put a preload on the anvil.

That being said I seated primer for well over 20 years without uniforming a primer pocket. And only do it now because I'm retired with nothing to do and all day to do it.
 
Update, loaded 15 and they all shot just fine, no issues at all. Definitely going to reset the tool back to a lighter cut and shoot for .005 on my primers, but good to know these cases arent trash.
 
Thanks Alibiiv. Kinda decided I'm getting too paranoid here. Loading up a few right now. I have the luxury of being able to shoot on my property, so plan is to see what happens. Worst case I have to go by a puller and pull a few bullets. Let's see what happens if a sloppy factory chamber with a sloppy bolt and sloppy firing pin...
If you don't have a puller it would be a good idea to get one. I think every loading bench ought to have one. I've got an RCBS collet puller, but primarily use the RCBS inertia puller. If you simply want to pull bullets and "save" them, the collet puller is the way to go. I don't like using pulled bullets over again so the inertia puller is the one that I use.
 
I know it's a tool I need, and fully intend to get one, just like everything out there too many options and too many opinions. I think every person new to reloading should be told expect to buy 3 of everything because you're going to inevitably hate the first 1 you buy no matter what, then the second will be better but you'll buy the 3rd one hoping it will be better still...sometimes it is, sometimes it isnt. 2yrs and $3000 later the new guy will have finally managed to develop a load that shoots satisfactorily, maybe even as good as the $25 box of factory ammo he used to shoot....lol or is it just me? Rant over...now back to the reloading bench to see if I can tighten up my group a little bit....its a freaking disease I swear!
 
I know it's a tool I need, and fully intend to get one, just like everything out there too many options and too many opinions. I think every person new to reloading should be told expect to buy 3 of everything because you're going to inevitably hate the first 1 you buy no matter what, then the second will be better but you'll buy the 3rd one hoping it will be better still...sometimes it is, sometimes it isnt. 2yrs and $3000 later the new guy will have finally managed to develop a load that shoots satisfactorily, maybe even as good as the $25 box of factory ammo he used to shoot....lol or is it just me? Rant over...now back to the reloading bench to see if I can tighten up my group a little bit....its a freaking disease I swear!
Reloading used to be an inexpensive means to be able to shoot on a regular basis, however with increased costs of components no longer allows that to be true. Reloading does however allow you the luxury of tailoring loads for your hunting and shooting needs. I personally find reloading to be fun and challenging, always looking to improve my shooting capabilities as well as the accuracy of my rifles.
 
The thing I like about it is if I do everything correctly I will eventually be able to load precise and consistent loads. Then when I go shoot, if the groups arent as good as the rifle and ammo are capable of, I know it's me! Seems the best way to improve my shooting abilities
 
Couldn't you do one pocket just marking the bottom..Check it with your depth mics
and adjust from there? Basically it's just a counter bored hole ..holding depth should be easy?
 
Well that's what I did, but it seems I didnt account for the anvil crush. Or I suppose it's possible my tool moved on me, I'll have to check that. It is just held by a set screw after all. If that's the case when I reset it, gonna use locktite, and maybe even some epoxy on the cutter/shaft junction...keep that crap from happening ever again.
 
There is a flat to bottom against. But seems some are saying the better ones come from the factory preset and shouldn't be adjusted. And if I'm thinking through this correctly, as long as it is set to consistently cut to a depth of .131 as seems to be the reccomendation, it will always cut the pocket only that deep. If it doesn't cut one, it means the pocket is too deep already and should probably be sorted out.
 
There is a flat to bottom against. But seems some are saying the better ones come from the factory preset and shouldn't be adjusted. And if I'm thinking through this correctly, as long as it is set to consistently cut to a depth of .131 as seems to be the reccomendation, it will always cut the pocket only that deep. If it doesn't cut one, it means the pocket is too deep already and should probably be sorted out.
I've got a Hornady tool that is one solid piece of carbide, it screws into a plastic handle. There's no adjustment at all. Push the cutter in until the base of the shoulder hits the back of the case and you're done. Never been a problem
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top