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Potential Rifle Comparison - Montana vs Savage Build

Doc7

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Jan 4, 2015
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I have already gone through a Montana 1999 vs Winchester Model 70 on this forum and am pretty well convinced that a 1999 is the local favorite here in that comparison. (I have plans to scratch the Model 70 itch for another purpose in a couple years anyway)

Let me ask this, do you think one of these two below would be better in terms of accuracy, and in terms of copper fouling? Is either of them a clear favorite or may I as well flip a coin? Primary purpose is deer hunting from tree-stands and shooting at the range.

- Re-barrel my Savage 11 7mm-08 w/ accutrigger with a Pac-Nor, Super Match grade 22" 3-groove 1:9" twist, stainless steel (prefit and chambered for the savage) and replace the Accu-stock with a McMillan stock. Willing to pillar and glass bed if necessary for either.

- Purchase the Montana MRC Extreme X2 rifle, 7mm-08. This is a stainless steel action in an in-house designed stock with pillar and glass bedding. It has a 24" barrel, don't know other details.


I think it comes down to, is an aftermarket Pac Nor super match barrel going to be better than the barrels Montana uses? Already owning the savage, I think it would come out a couple hundred less to do the build than the purchase. Depending on lead time I may end up with a Shilen instead of the Pac-Nor.
 
Whats wrong w/ the current savage? Curious b/c I have a cheap unaltered 7-08 model 10 that shoots almost 1/2moa.
 
Mine was bought used with an unknown round count, has a pitted bore, and several different ammo loads haven't gotten under 1.75" average.
 
In that case it needs a barrel no matter what so I'd slap a criterion 6.5 creedmoor. I'd rather run 140gr 6.5's over 140gr 7mm which seems to be the popular 7-08 bullet.
 
I believe Montana has their own barrel shop again. If the quality is anything like it was a few years ago, their barrels would be quit exceptable. I bought several 5-7 yreas ago and didn't find a tool mark in any of them and they 'broke-in' easily. They used/use a button rifling process. The Savage is 'modular' like a AR 15, anyone with a few tools and access to You-Tube can work on one. The Montana is a solid set-up,,,,, takes special tools and a bit of know-how. I prefer a solid set-up,,,,, the Savage guys take up way too much of my time figuring I should "show them how" when they get in over their heads (so do some of the AR guys). The Montana would almost certainly be lighter in weight than the Savage.
 
In that case it needs a barrel no matter what so I'd slap a criterion 6.5 creedmoor. I'd rather run 140gr 6.5's over 140gr 7mm which seems to be the popular 7-08 bullet.


That is a bigger change than just a barrel replacement which requires no other mods to the bolt etc...
 
That is a bigger change than just a barrel replacement which requires no other mods to the bolt etc...

Not sure what you're saying, but the 6.5cm has the same bolt face as the 7-08. As for the stock I'd see how the accustock performs before dumping 500+ and 6months+ on a mcmillan unless you're dead set on it and stockys has one in stock. But the savage sounds like it needs the barrel regardless, might as well get started on that IMO. Who knows you may want a different caliber down the road when its time to get the 1999.

On a short action I think there are only 2 calibers that really pique my interest. The 6.5cm and the 7mm sherman shortmag.
 
Thanks for the input I hadn't realized more barrel swaps were possible outside of 308/243/7mm-08.
 
Do the Savage! I have done it five times:
250-3000
250AI
257 Roberts
220 Swift(Varmint weight)
Because all of my other Savages shoot so well( I have a total of eight)
I built a Varmint weight 243 Win
If you prepare the Savage action properly for a custom build they are hard to beat.(IMHO)
 
How do you suggest preparing it? Truing etc?

That's the beauty of Savage's floating head design; unlike other actions, you can get away with it just squaring the action face (going beyond that of course never hurts) as explained in this video ...

[ame]https://youtu.be/ue3rOgZOm6g?t=55[/ame]

lightbulbSavage actions is tops with the DIY crowd. Lots of DIYers reports very good result without even squaring the action face when they re-barrel ... how cool is that. :Dlightbulb
 
That's the beauty of Savage's floating head design; unlike other actions, you can get away with it just squaring the action face (going beyond that of course never hurts) as explained in this video ...

https://youtu.be/ue3rOgZOm6g?t=55

lightbulbSavage actions is tops with the DIY crowd. Lots of DIYers reports very good result without even squaring the action face when they re-barrel ... how cool is that. :Dlightbulb

being as the action front and race ways are cut on the same machine with the same setup, squaring the face is about the easiest thing that makes a difference. After heat treating the bolt lug seating surface there make be a thousandth or so distortion, but very hard to do. Easiest would be on a Brown & Sharpe 13 tool grinder. Then you could do both surfaces at the sametime. Threads, ETC are almost as a waste of time. There are some things to be done on the other that might help, but even then 90% of gunsmiths won't go there anyway. I've checked two of my three Savage actions on a CMM machine, plus did all three on a surface plate. Compound error on the last two built was well under .00175". The first was around .0025" (one of the old steel actions that used a stainless barrel. Interestingly the first one was also the most accurate (all are 22-250).
gary
 
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